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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
Good stuff today! My vacuum leaks are gone, and the motor actually wanted to die without the idle solenoid set up. So I was able to dial that in. The motor wanted to surge in RPMs, until I was able to dial in the fuel and some timing.

So with that stuff worked out, I spent some time figuring out the alternator connections. It's been in the back, then front, then back of my mind ever since I started wiring the harness. So I had a good idea how it was going to come together, and it did just that. Now I can put my charger away. My wideband O2 would not heat up unless it saw 12.5V or more, so I've been putting the charger on every time I started the car.

Speaking of wideband O2, I was able to get the data logging function working. I pulled the meter out of the dash pod, and noticed that the data log wire was not in the connector all the way. I was super stoked when I saw that. It pushed its way back out as soon as I mounted the gauge again, so I put some 5 min epoxy on the wires, not the connector, just the wire bundle to lock them all together.

Now that the O2 is logging, I'm going to test TunerStudio's Auto warmup enrichment feature and see if it can tune my cold start sequence. They claim it can tune the warmup in 1 to 2 passes. This is a big deal, because you only get one shot per day to dial this in. (At least here in the spring. I guess if it was the dead of winter I could get a few tries.)
 

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You may be able to do the cold start cycle a few times if you used that big *ss fan to re-start the cycle.
Back in the carburertor days,it took 3 cycles to replicate the choke cycle during warm up and it was difficult to do.
I always expected a come back for a choke issue after a carb rebuild.
There are few more tools available lately,to set the parameters,beside one's well-tuned ear.
We used to use R-12 to re-set the choke. (SHAME ON US!)

You are doing ALL of this solo?
It's helpful to have someone to bounce off of.
I guess that will be US.
Please continue.
+++++ on the pix,BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
I have 1 good friend that is a car guy and has been very helpful. He is going to help me get the headers put together, but for the most part, I have been running alone. This forum has been very helpful.

I am an IT Operations Manager by trade, so most of my buddies are computer geeks, and not mechanical at all. For years I was an Automated MFG Equipment Tech. Working on MFG robots. This EFI stuff is not far off from that world. The marriage of sensors, and computer control with the wonderful sound of a good old V8.

I would like to thank everyone that has given feedback, and helped me along with this project. I'm not sure I would have gotten as far as I have without all the great folks on this forum. I hope that I can be of some help to the next poor fool who tries this swap. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
A quick update.

Got my throttle cable Tuesday and installed it. Now I can rev the car without sticking my hand out the window and tugging on the old, cut cable.:cool:

I have been working on the tune, and got to a point where the car would not run. I wiped out the entire project file, and started fresh. The car is running again. I have been fighting an oscillation, but I think I figured it out. Looks like, from the logs, that the engine is chasing the target AFRs, and not getting there quick enough. The car will idle great for a bit, then the smallest change in temp, or a blip of the throttle will send it into an up and down cycle.

I found a thread that led me to believe the lag times for AFR, TPS and one other setting were too low. I have increased these values, but was unable to test them. (My neighbors hate me :) ) It was getting too late.

I welcome any suggestions to get the idle smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Started one of the bigger jobs I have been avoiding. Headers. I made a few cuts on the headers a while back, and destroyed every cutting device I used. Went through 2 jigsaw blades, and 2 sawsall blades. Anyway, I stocked up on blades, and spent most of today putting stuff together. I don't have a TIG welder, so I'm tacking everything together, and will find someone to button them up.

The passenger side is a few tacks from being done, but the drivers side has been a lot of work, and will be a lot more to get all the tubes to the collector. My focus was getting the primaries around the steering shaft. Pics below.

Pretty ugly, but they should work. I wish they were easier to cut. Burned up 3 more blade getting to this point just today. I would have made the bends more gradual if I could cut more slices.









 

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Looks like 304 stainless and it's almost impossible to drill also!
A sawzall makes good pie cuts but I would attack it with a cut-off wheel in a few places.
Maybe a chop saw with a carbide wheel.
The collector is gonna be a BEAR.
Looks like only one primary tube had to be fabbed up and I think you are using a "buzz-box".
You have to think in 3D and I would not be lovin' it and would make a LOT of mistakes!
This guy cheated!
[url]http://www.bing.com/videos/search?
q=how+to+make+your+own+headers&FORM=VIRE4#view=detail&mid=CE8D9628AD9040FEAD6ACE8D9628AD9040FEAD6A[/URL]

Collector dynamics explained:
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=How+to+Make+Exhaust+Headers&Form=VQFRVP#view=detail&mid=6950B28B22CFAA56AAD76950B28B22CFAA56AAD7
There are a few others,but not with stainless.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
The last pic is the modified passenger side. There was just one primary that was hitting the steering rack's rubber boot on that side.

I don't have a cut-off wheel, but I may pick up a cutting disk for my chop saw. I'll have quite a few pie cuts to make to finish it up. I'm not going to make a collector from scratch. I'm going to make all my tubes reconnect to the one I cut off. (Even harder probably)
 

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I am an IT Operations Manager by trade, so most of my buddies are computer geeks, and not mechanical at all.
I feel your pain there as i am in the same spot. Very few people who work in IT and are interested in build a car. :)

Build looks awesome - keep up the great work
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Been a while since I updated this thread. Not much progress has been made. I have the headers fabbed up, but am trying to find someone to finish TIG weld them for me. Had some issues fitting the Mustang radiator under the hood, so had to have a new one made.

Kind of a funny story because I had a rad custom made last fall when I was still running the 5mge, but the inlet and outlets are on the opposite side they need to be for the Ford motor. Couldn't make it work because the inlet was interfering with the AC compressor. So I took the practically new rad back to the shop that made it to have them swap the ports. When they pulled out an exact mirror image of the one I brought them. Then I remembered that last fall they made the one I ordered completely backwards and had to build another one. So I traded them. So now I have another brand new 3 core that I can work with.

Anyway, this weekend I will put the interior back together and mount the rad while I wait to hear back from some private welders I requested quotes from.

I also found the coil brackets are hitting the hood too. So I will cut that down a bit. (Never liked how high they looked anyway)

So once the headers are welded up, she will be on the road. (Tuning time)
 

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Somewhere I've seen a jig that had all the angles to cut tubing at where the tube shape stayed the same. I think it was every 22 1/2 degrees but I'm not sure. That would sure make header fabrication easier!
I think just sticking most any scoop on these hoods screws up the look as well. Something custom perhaps. I'm thinking something like on the 69 (not 70) Mach 1 and not the shaker style either. Like if the stock hood had an actual opening near the very front. Just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I have seen a jig. Saw it after I was well into making the headers.
I think the coolest design for a hood mod would be to extend the center ridge higher like a cowl induction hood. For our cars, I think the scoops should remain low in the front valance.



My fans showed up yesterday, and I welded up the headers myself. I don't want to post pics of them because they are pretty ugly, but they will work for now. I plan on wrapping them anyway. The header flanges really suck. I don't know how the MFG expects someone to put bolts through some of the holes. The way the tubes come off block all access. I had to grind open every one of them, and am still having some fitment issues. The pass side is installed and I was fighting the drivers side until 11 last night. I plan on hitting it hard today and tomorrow.

My goal is to drive the car this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
I just returned from a trip around the block. Holy crap she wants to go!
Couple of issues. The clutch is right off the floor, but I knew that. Need to lift my mufflers. Rubbed one pulling out of the driveway. 4.3:1 rearend is going to be way too low, but awesome. And my cooling fans come on when the Megasquirt shuts off. (Using VVT out for fan control). Might have to find a different output.
 

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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
I don't think I want to trade a 4.3 LSD for what looks like a standard diff from an earlier model. I got all excited when I saw that post, but then I saw it was for a 79-82 Supra.
 

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I don't think I want to trade a 4.3 LSD for what looks like a standard diff from an earlier model. I got all excited when I saw that post, but thenI saw it was for a 79-82 Supra.
Yeah, I would have been.
Too easy,eh?
The tranny radios on the T-5 are VERY variable.
I saw a post of the variances.
Close ratio,wide ratio.
I saw the best ones.
Alloy case ones look good.

"Nice try,Dave".
I was lookin' out for ya.
Yes,I'm following your build.

I dug around on header wraps and decided it was a BAD idea.
There are alternatives.
I did this today:
Had some REAL asbestos to add some insulation to the stock heat shield.
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary_zpso1zd9epy.jpg.html][/URL]

OK,what are those other holes for? Dipstick tube? On my 5M...nothing.
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary_zpsbwdsmnmv.jpg.html][/URL]

The cutout is for acess to an upper exhaust manifold bolt/nut or 2.
I added a few bits of insulation to the heat shield.The heat shield is a sandwich,already.
Painted with "header paint" that will burn off. Normal.
Torched it with a propane monster B-4 putting it back on,to reduce under-hood smell/smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
The trans I have it the SVT version. 1st gear is even lower than the standard T5 offered in the 88 Mustang doner. The standard T5 would have a 3.35 1st gear, and the T5z has the following:
Specs
- Torque rating 330ft/lbs
- 2.95 first with a .63 Overdrive
- Steel front bearing retainer
- 10 spline input shaft
- 28 spline output shaft
- 7 tooth speedo gear

Driving it Sunday was nice. The shift pattern is real tight. Like there was a shorty kit added, but it looks pretty stock to me. 1st gear doesn't last very long though :) Probably start off in second most of the time until I swap the Diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #120 (Edited)
A quick update. Everything is going well, the car is drivable, but I'm having an issue where it will cut out briefly. Seems worse when the car gets up to operating temp. It's happening every few seconds, and it's hard on the running gear due to my low gearing. When it happens, I see the tach signal drop at the gauge. The tach is driven from an output on the MS. (TACHOUT)

I think it's the Megasquirt losing PIP signal from the EDIS. I put my O-Scope on the signal from the 36 tooth wheel and it looks good and clean at the EDIS8 module, even while the cutting out is occurring. I didn't use a shielded wire for the PIP and SAW wires to the MS, so tonight I'm going to pull the wires and run a nice shielded pair. If that resolves the issue, the only thing left will be some tuning.

I'll try to post some road trip vids soon.
 
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