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Use a shielded twisted pair for those signals with the shield grounded at the EDIS. The Megasquirt is being swamped with noise and losing sync. I just built a new harness for a buddies serious drag Mustang with an MSD 6AL2 using a Hall Sensor to generate the PIP signal and that did the trick. It was having similar issues using the wires previously used for a VR magnetic pickup. Keep the wiring away from any high current or high energy wires and never bundle it together with other wiring. Cross high power wires at right angles to minimize interference. I would do this from the pickup to the EDIS as well to be safe. You very definitely will see a much cleaner signal on your scope. I certainly did. Hope this helps.
 
Discussion starter · #122 ·
Well that seemed to do the trick. I put 9 miles on her this morning, and 4-5 last night without any issues.
 
Discussion starter · #123 ·
Well the Boss 302 Supra is a success! I have been dialing in the tune, and driving it around, and am very pleased. The only complaint I have right now is the clutch master is too small. The friction point is right off the floor, and to be honest, I had to adjust the master so that with the friction point at the firewall, I fear that it is still not fully engaging. No slip, but I have been taking it kinda easy on her.

I will be ordering a Wilwood 3/4 or 1 inch bore master for it soon.

It's loud and obnoxious too! (That's a good thing BTW) Really wants to go with the 4.30 rear end gear. Probably going to take it to 4.10. I think any taller will not be near as fun.

I love the Megasquirt. I have been able to really geek out with it. I can log with full GPS (Using my laptop), check engine light, fan control, shift light, gear indicator (With nothing more than telling it to calculate the speed/RPM using the gear ratios), idle control, launch control (Although I haven't set it up yet), and logging everything. I'm logging everything from vehicle speed to fuel pressure.

Final thoughts:
1. More mods on the oil pan, and push the motor back further.
2. Ford power steering pumps are noisy and suck. (Just like all my Fords barring the 64 Fairlane)
3. Wished I had a bigger budget for higher quality heads, intake and throttle body. But that is still on the list of to do's for a later date.
4 Total spend was within my $5200 budget. (No money was spent outside of that. Keeping in mind the parts I sold from the Mustang and old 5mge, and the fact that I had already upgraded my radiator last summer with a big aluminium one)
5. I just registered the car as an antique vehicle in Utah to get around the emissions and modifications. I won't be required to do an inspection or smog test ever. This does mean that the car can no longer be used for daily driving. (Can't wait for my personalized plates to arrive. "302V8" )

Thanks to everyone that had feedback and suggestions, and for not busting my balls too bad for dropping a Ford small block in one of these great Toyota's.

Feel free to contact me if you feel like doing this swap. It really has gone quite well considering I did all of it my self in my garage over a 5 month span.
 
The 4.10's may still be low for that motor unless you could get some BIG tires under the wheel wells.
What? You want a better set of heads and intake maifold? Not enough power for ya?

I have installed rebuilt PS pumps on cars that the customer complained were too loud. The rebuilt one was louder!
Wrap it in Dynamat,maybe.They gurgle loudly.Does the steering feel light to you?Maybe the pressure is adjustable.
I'm happy that the Megasquirt system is working well and it sounds like you have a blast setting it up a playing computer-boy on it!
 
Discussion starter · #125 ·
The pump isn't that bad, about average for Fords, but the Yota pump was so quiet. Steering feels great though.

As for the gears, I already have pretty big tires. I think they are 245/60 14. The car looks like a 70's muscle car gone full red neck :) With a fifth gear of .63 gear vs the W58's .783 I think it will be a good balance. I know that when I put those tires on before the swap, the car really needed the 4.30.
 
The pump isn't that bad, about average for Fords, but the Yota pump was so quiet. Steering feels great though.

As for the gears, I already have pretty big tires. I think they are 245/60 14. The car looks like a 70's muscle car gone full red neck :) With a fifth gear of .63 gear vs the W58's .783 I think it will be a good balance. I know that when I put those tires on before the swap, the car really needed the 4.30.
245 60 14's are about right. 255 70 14's? Full red neck,indeed.
I know that your first gear is really low: go into second at the 30' mark at 1/2 throttle.
Don't tub it out! (275 60 18's)
 
TheBassman,

I was curious to know if you had made any head-way with your clutch? I do not recall, but did you end up using the 0.75" Land Cruiser MC? I just ordered a 1970-pre-8/1974 Land Cruiser slave cylinder (31470-60022) that has a 0.75" bore. So I will be ditching the 0.8175" bore unit...

This will give a 1:1 piston to piston displacement on the clutch...

Regards,

Carlos
 
Discussion starter · #130 ·
Missed your post until just now. I did get a LC master, and it is just barley big enough to give me full travel. Unfortunately it is still not quite enough. I am using it, but in order for it to work, I have to preload it a bit, and after a month or so, I have to remove and reinstall it again, due to it speeping back down to a neutral position. I will be ordering a Willwood 1, or 7/8in master when my budget permits it.

Right now, the friction point is right off the floor about an inch and a half.
 
Discussion starter · #131 · (Edited)
Logged in tonight for another update. 2 weeks ago I was going to a local car show. Got 2 blocks from the house, and the Supra started popping and backfiring through the TB. Took it home and after it cooled started to troubleshoot.

I suspected a valve issue so I checked the compression on all cylinders. When I got to the number 7 cylinder, I noticed that the compression was pushing through to the number 8 hole. Bad news, head gasket. It wasn't leaking coolant through, just compression. When I took the valve cover off I found the cause of the excess pressure that blew it out.


Damn Chinese parts screwed me again. I bought the studs when I bought the heads from the same re-seller. I figured they would be the right size for the application. Well they were, but you see what happened.

2 weekends ago I replaced the head gasket on the drivers side only, but could not source ARP studs locally. They arrived earlier this week so I got her all back up and running today. The new studs are a bit longer giving them a few more threads to hold on to.

I was pretty bummed because I had just gotten the tune nice a happy, and the car was running really well.

Guess I lucked out because the rocker just fell to one side and no other damage was done.
 
Holy crap failure!
Now,you are going to worry,still?
Are you running a big-lift camshaft? I see the roller rockers.
Your left leg will be like an iron pipe,soon.
1:1 ratio on the clutch master/slave.
I like the Felpro gaskets.I just use 'em again.
 
Discussion starter · #133 ·
I always worry :) Until I get some real miles on her, I will worry.
I am running the stock 303 roller. I think it was just a flawed part. Now that I have the ARP studs, I think it will be good. I'm also using ARP head bolts and FelPro gaskets throughout. I can't blame the gasket for the head gasket failure. What is the exhaust gas supposed to do when the exhaust valve doesn't open? :)
 
Good question.
Why did I get compression on a cylinder when the exhaust cam that was 180* out of time?
It should have farted back out the intake.
 
TheBassman,

Missed your post until just now. I did get a LC master, and it is just barley big enough to give me full travel. Unfortunately it is still not quite enough.
Okay, so you are running the LC Master Cylinder, but which slave are you running? I apologize if I missed it somewhere in the thread. I do recall you planning to use a Wilwood, or something similar at one point...

Carlos
 
I have seen a jig. Saw it after I was well into making the headers.
I think the coolest design for a hood mod would be to extend the center ridge higher like a cowl induction hood. For our cars, I think the scoops should remain low in the front valance.



My fans showed up yesterday, and I welded up the headers myself. I don't want to post pics of them because they are pretty ugly, but they will work for now. I plan on wrapping them anyway. The header flanges really suck. I don't know how the MFG expects someone to put bolts through some of the holes. The way the tubes come off block all access. I had to grind open every one of them, and am still having some fitment issues. The pass side is installed and I was fighting the drivers side until 11 last night. I plan on hitting it hard today and tomorrow.

My goal is to drive the car this weekend.
 
Bassman,

Great job on the install. I put a 5.0 into my celica 2 years ago, what a blast. I went carburator and the W58. The engine make 270 hsp and 270 torque at the wheel, I went with the SVO heads, to many issues with the Pro Comp heads. Hopefully you won't have any more problems. I love that it is all under the hood without any scoops, thats how mine is, but if I get a better intake for more power I will have to cut it up, and more power is always better. I have autocrossed it and ddrag raced it without any issues. Just love the looks on ppeoples faces.

Enjoy the ride.
 
Discussion starter · #139 · (Edited)
I thought I would do a quick check-in. Today.
I had my crappy exhaust, bodge job replaced. The shop I found to do it would not cut the Mustang cats off due to state restrictions, but since I have an antique plate, I can run without them. The Tech suggested that I cut them off before I brought the car over. I did just that, and drove the car 12 miles to the shop with fire and brimstone belching out of the headers. Fun, but I wouldn't want to do that everyday :)

He did a real nice job, and I doubt that I will be hitting the top of any speed bumps anymore. The car sounds much better with the extra piping running out just in front of the rear wheels. (I can hear the tire noise again. Something I haven't heard since getting the swap done)
Still looking for a good tuner in my area to fine tune the beast. Now that spring is here, I will be able to spend some more time dialing it in myself.

Things to do:
1. I get an occasional spike in the TPS signal that causes the Megasquirt to freak out just a bit. Only happens when I am at cruise for a minute or two. 2 things that might be causing it are, one, I have not made custom length spark plug wires, and the ones on the car are a bit long. And 2, No shielding of the TPS wire to the Megasquirt. Logging is showing an obvious spike on the TPS when the issue occurs.
I'll probably just install a shielded cable for the TPS to start. Custom made wires have not been made due to the funky Ford coil packs, and the inability to find just the terminal crimps for the plug ends. I know they exist, I just haven't found and purchased any yet.

One last thing that needs work, is the air intake temp sensor. Ford has this thing right in the drivers side of the intake manifold, and it heat soaks like a bastard. (Even though it is a open element type) I have changed the settings on the Megasquirt to ignore it at startup, and that helped, but I will be swapping it out for something that lives in the intake tube before the throttle body to get a more accurate air temp.

All in all, I am super happy with the final product, and have had a lot of positive feedback. I get a lot of thumbs up wherever I go, and have started showing the car at local cruise nights, and car events.
 
Discussion starter · #140 ·
Also, I see that there was a question about the clutch master cylinder. The Land Cruiser MC I was using was just a bit too small, and I had to pre-load the cylinder just a bit to get full travel. After a few weeks, it would seep down and not engage fully any more.
I have since installed a Willwood 7/8 inch bore MC, and made an adapter plate to mate the MC to, and used it to bolt to the firewall. It has been working perfectly, and the friction point is just about 1/4 off the top, and it gives the clutch a feel comparable to any stock hydraulic clutch I'm used too.
 
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