I was under the impression the spacers moved the caliper outwards, towards the wheel!? To compensate for a hat that isn't deep enough. Do they space it back away from the wheel??williamb82 said:actually, you want the caliperto have the spacer, possible thicker. that will push the caliper further from the wheel so you dont have to worry about interference. i would look for a rotor that can be drilled to mount to the rear of the hub like stock so the wheels will still be the right offset and wont be sticking ou the extra 8mm up front.
The spacers do move the caliper outwards from the center of the car. The caliper actually bolts up to the outward edge of the caliper mount. So when you add a spacer it moves the caliper outwards.ghostrider said:I was under the impression the spacers moved the caliper outwards, towards the wheel!?
That is what they did and what I do not want to do. I want the caliper as close to the strut as possible. That way there is less interferance with the wheel. Also the caliper bolts straight up to the strut so why ruin a good thing?The spacers do move the caliper outwards from the center of the car. The caliper actually bolts up to the outward edge of the caliper mount. So when you add a spacer it moves the caliper outwards.
That is another thing I'm looking for, mounting the disc to the rear of the hub is the best solution. I thought about using a larger hat and have disc mount on the front of the hub, but I don't like the extra material up front. I do not want to machine material from the hub either.i would look for a rotor that can be drilled to mount to the rear of the hub like stock so the wheels will still be the right offset and wont be sticking ou the extra 8mm up front.
The calipers come from 89-96 300zx cars (also Skyline etc.). The disc width for those cars was 30mm. The reason I have the carboard disc on the hub in the image on my site was to check a hunch. I was correct the perfect disc diameter was 280mm, just like the 300ZX. I did check this without pads, but I'm confident that that is the diameter we need.Also should I use the thickness dimension from the 86-92 Z car for the optimum thickness? Or just go with 1"?
I will be looking for both once I have the dimension(s) from each of you. (overall height)
Yes they do, but I will stick with the Wilwoods. I already made the shims for the pad spacing.I agree the machined hat/Wilwood, Coleman, AP rotor would be good, but Wilwood at least doesn't apper to make a 11"X1" rotor. All the 11" rotors they list are all .81" or 20.5mm. according to what they have on their site anyway:
Do either of the others?
.I guess theres more than one way to skin a cat huh?
They might have just overlooked some options. Also there could be an unseen reason why they went the route they did.rsdeo said:I still don't know why the Japanese guys would want to machine the hub and disc? Then make a spacer for the caliper? They have all those cars as domestics over there and sourcing parts should be easy and cheap for them.
William unless I'm missing something your idea to move the caliper inwards toward the strut will only really work one way. Take a look at the image of the caliper mounted to the strut on my site.ok, ,heres what im going to do. i can get rotor adaptors made. i will buy the coleman 11x1in rotors and make a spacer to go between the caliper and mounting point to push it as close to
the strut as i can. then i will make the rotor adaptor the appropriate thickness to mount the rotor centered with the caliper. the spacers and adaptors will be plasma cut. once i have all the dimensions sorted out ill see what the guy will charge me to make them for us if anyone is interested. i already have some 0 offset 15's and want to be able to use them.
Cool Frank. I think the reason for all the extra work they did was just to use the stock R32 disc. We'll see.I'll email the webmaster of hirostyle.com and ask for some info. And when I have some free time Ill search around to see if I can find any other options for brakes.
Thanks Jim, but I don't know how many people are going to do this swap. I thought once I get everything resolved I would just post all the specs with a how-to on my site and anyone wanting to do it could do it themselves.If you go the rotor adapter route, check pricing.
The manufacturing discount, especially with aluminum, gets much better by each qty 10.
I am getting another quote from another fabricator, as they did the V2 shifter. Nice work and timely production.