I dunno really, I know the car stop a LOT better than it was with stock rotors and worn pads, but have never had the chance to test between new stock rotors and new pads vs. slotted rotors w/the same pads.
Personally, I have tried the cross-drilled rotors on my Durango and felt the brake fade was less than stock(this was done at 18k since the stock rotors were warped-typical Dodge engineering...), I also tried the cross-drilled rotors on my Toyota truck with the same experiences. While I wanted the same effects on the Supra, I decided to go with slotted rotors due to many folks saying the cross-drilled rotors crack under extreme heat and cooling cycles between the holes(and it does, the Durango-at 78k, has a few hairline cracks; that's 60k more miles than the stock rotors!!!), I decided to go with something that isn't completely cut thru the rotors-slots!
You will notice that they do eat thru pads a bit faster than non- slotted, but the theory is that with each pass it cleans the pad instead of getting glazed from extreme heat.
As for the cad plating, I don't think it's really necessary unless you live in a roadsalt area, this basically keeps the vent holes and other non-pad contact areas from rusting. If I were to do it again, I'd keep the cad plating off...
Sorry so long!
Chris
Oh yeah, pad info is here:
http://www.ebcbrakesuk.com/catalogue/catalogues/usa-auto/catalogues/usp/apps/60/17/index.html
call them for the rear green stuff pad number since it's not listed on their site.