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POTATO
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Discussion Starter #21
pics are long gone sorry.
 

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1) The pics ARE there, I discovered. Ya just gotta ckick on the empty box and they show up in a Photocucket window.

2) I finally figured out what TSRM stands for. More importantly, I realize that if the link to it was stickied on the FAQ, and if people looked there first, it would save half of the inane questions here. Hmmm.
 

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Yup...they still link to proper pics in your PB account Tanya. Any chance you could relink them? Would be very handy to most people.
 

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POTATO
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Discussion Starter #24
please forgive my laziness, but I've been very anti-photobucket for the last several months due to their constant changes and lessening the amount of space for free accounts, causing one account to completely shut down w/o notice. I just can't bring myself to deal with the hassle atm. Probably will start using imageshack more and more. The thing about photo sharing sites is, you never know when they WILL go down permanently.
 

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Here's a copy of the entire write-up Tanya made with the pic links fixed. I'm about to do this to my car. Thanks Tanya for the write up! :thumbsup:

TANYA'S Cam Tower Gasket Replacement

Takes anywhere from 8-12 hours to do this, including the time the car has to sit for the sealant to cure (I prefer closer to 16 hours for sealant curing however)

*click on pics to make big*
So anyway you start by opening the hood


Start by removing the obvious stuff. The accelorator bracket, miscellenous hoses, intake, etc.


Pull the valve covers and upper timing cover


Now you don't HAVE to pull the plug wires, I only did because I was going to clean them, but 4 out of 6 of mine broke.
Anyway, pull the coil wire, put car in neutral and rotate the crankshaft to TDC and make sure the cams are at their timing marks (also pull the distributor cap to make sure the rotor is pointing at #1 or you're gonna be in trouble)


Loosen the cam gears w/o disturbing timing and remove the timing belt.


Remove the upper rear timing cover. Don't forget to get off the remaining gasket material on the backside.





Now, remove the bolts from the cam tower in sequence as is shown here:
Cam Tower Sequence



Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters, but keep them in order to their respective cylinders.




Before installing the lash adjusters back in the head when re-assembling, be sure to bleed them well in lightweight oil.


Intake side cam tower is more of a pain. Unbolt the throttle body and move it out of the way. Unplug distributor.


Now do everything the same as the exhaust tower, same bolt removal sequence.

Now I told my husband to use a little bit of sealant on the gaskets, but I suppose he forgot because I was in town when he did this part. Guess I'll find out if they leak w/o it soon enough.
***edit* they did start leaking again, HIGHLY recommended to use some RTV sealant/gasket maker on the gaskets, not a huge bunch, just a thing spread should suffice***


When putting the cam towers back on, try using a little bit of grease to hold the rocker arms in place, because they're easily knocked off.


I also lubed the cams up as well because we had to let the engine sit overnight because we couldn't finish with no light.

Now here I made my own "Tennesee" gaskets as they're sometimes called. You can get one of these gaskets in the upper timing cover gasket set from Felpro, but because we just bought the cam tower gaskets and nothing else I made my own. And I made TWO gaskets because I've had experience with this little bastard oil galley before, and if that thing leaks, you're in serious trouble. Better safe than sorry. This is why the car should sit overnight, to let this troublesome area and its sealant cure.




Then you put your cam gears back on, make sure they're in time (always check the rotor to make sure, or look through the oil cap opening to see if the cam hole lines up). Put the valve covers back on, replacing the grommets if you got them. (Which is recommended)



I won't say much about getting the timing belt back on except that it's an extreme pain in the ass and now I really have blood into this car. I retarded each cam gear by 1.5 teeth, then I took the timing belt tensioner pulley and pulled it all the way towards the exhaust side, then temporarily tightened it there. Then pulled the belt on, intake cam first, then exhaust. Then I loosened the tensioner pulley and pulled it tight towards the intake until the belt was tight and the slack pulled the cam gears into time.

The obviously you put everything else back on, hoses, throttle body, intake, etc.

Before you try to start the car, don't be dumb like me and forget to plug the distributor back in. That could lead to a lot more pain and suffering, heh



*note* any steps that may have been left out can be located in the online TSRM. And of course also the cam tower bolt torque specs HERE.
 

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Tanya, you mention that you had to make a gasket for the rear upper timing cover. Was this the only other gasket you needed other than the cam tower and valve cover gaskets? I'm just making sure I have everything ready before I start. At www.ajsautowhs.com (they have a store in my area), they list a timing cover set from DNJ engine components(part #TC402) for $6.70 but it looks nothing like the timing cover gasket you needed. To make things even more confusing, Autozone lists two timing cover gasket sets(one doesn't come with dust seals) by Felpro(part #TCS45518 and TCS45518-1) that don't look like either the DNJ set or the gasket you had to make. More searching through the Autozone website led me to find what is labeled a camshaft seal kit by Felpro (part #TCS45570-1) that comes with a gasket that looks identical to the one you needed. When I saw that, I was thinking, "finally, this is it!" Then, more confusion followed. I googled the part number and found that Oreilly Auto Parts lists that same exact kit(same part number) as "camshaft FRONT seal set." Is that not the gasket needed for the REAR upper timing cover? I've been searching for almost three hours now, and I'm SO confused! So, to sum up, I desperately need your help and would appreciate it greatly if you could answer me the following two questions: Besides the camshaft tower gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and that gasket you made for the rear upper timing cover, were there any other gaskets you needed to buy or make? If yes, which ones, and if no, do I only need to buy the Felpro kit part #TCS45570-1?
 

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I have seen decent and horrible aftermarket gasket kits. You will spend a few more bucks but please buy the Toyota gasket set. Contact Mark at Vancouver and he will hook you up with the parts you need at the best price possible. You can thank me later...just my two cents.
 

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celipra, check with Mark and find out if 11328-43030 is the Tennessee gasket and if it can be purchased separately from a kit.
 

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POTATO
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Discussion Starter #31
lol thanks for fixing the links. I had completely forgotten about this thread. Derp.

Yeah you can buy the "Tennessee gasket" from Toyota separate, but you cannot from places like AdvanceAuto and AutoZone I believe. An actual "timing set" from these places should cost at least $25-40, if not they are very incompleted. Might want to just go with Toyota and be done with it.

I have done it both ways. I have replaced the cam tower gaskets on different cars, a few times and I have either bought that gasket from Toyota or made it myself. When I do make it myself, I tend to use two gaskets, as I had an issue with my first Supra that it kept leaking and destroying my alternators which got VERY expensive. So I am forever cautious now.

In all honesty, I am not completely satisfied with this thread anymore. Considering I followed my own advice, and did everything right when I built my 6MGE, and it started leaking after 3k miles. I know the 5M/6M head is a pain in the ass like that, but I do want to find a way to "cure" it. Getting some better bolts or something. Hopefully I can update this thread with that kind of stuff relatively soon.
 

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I know everyone automatically says buy OEM, but I'm fine buying the Felpro gasket. Just because it's not OEM doesn't mean it won't work. Many people I know, myself included, have used Felpro gaskets and they've worked just fine. Hell, I've even had one of those cheap remanufactured alternators from Autozone(the ones rumored to have an extremely short life) for almost 3 years with no issues. Anyways, I appreciate everyones input, especially Tanya(thanks for the quick reply:thumbsup:). I have bought the Felpro gasket from Autozone and I'd previously bought the valve cover gasket(with grommets) and cam tower gaskets. While it hasn't explicitly been said, I assume I have everything I need with that, since no one's suggested I need anything else. Next weekend, thanks to this thread, I'll finally be changing the cam tower gaskets! :woot: (oh and Tanya's 6m has inspired me so I'll be painting the cam tower, valve cover and intake manifold as well and will post pics in another thread!:badger: )
 

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make sure to get some cam o rings, i dont think they exist aftermarket, i went to toyota for mine, i did this jobs about 2 months ago. my cam carrier gaskets leaked like a mofo( especially the intake side).and dont overlook the cam carrier bolt removal process like me, or get rocker arms mixed up.
 

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I just replaced my exhaust cam tower gasket with a metal felpro last weekend. No sealant. Started leaking within a day. It has actually gotten much worse today and produCing a lot of smoke that at times would come into the cabin. Totally not cool. I've had the cam tower off twice now since the rebuild and they are super smooth and no nicks. I measured them for warpage during the rebuild and checked out ok. So I'm gonna try again this time using rtv.
 

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how important is it to keep the lash adjusters with their respective cylinders cause my mechanic said it didnt matter?
 

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how important is it to keep the lash adjusters with their respective cylinders cause my mechanic said it didnt matter?
It matters...wear patterns for one. Do your best to keep them together.
 
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