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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Cap'n 2JZ's 1985 Toyota Supra Build Thread
The Silver Bullet

Click the Links Below to See More About the Subject.
I'm working to condense my entire build into this thread

To see my 2JZ R154 Swap Guide please click the link below.

History in a nutshell: I built this entire car in my 12x20 garage with a 7 foot tall ceiling. I did the entire swap including lifting the engine in and out numerous times for test fitting and did the paintwork in this garage and outside up the driveway, and she ran for the first time in the garage and the only work I wasnt able to do myself was the custom exhaust, so I sent the car out to a shop to have an exhaust fabbed up. If you believe you can do something, you can do it ! I picked up the tools and knowlege I needed along the way and learned how to rebuild differentials and transmissions in the process, a very worthwhile experience for me and a car I will hold onto for a long time. The amount of things you learn when you chose to do something in the right ways is incredible.

Enjoy my 2JZ swap struggle, it was very real.

Motor: 100% complete and running

Brakes: 100% complete. 300zx brake conversion on 4 corners, discs and calipers.

Suspension: 90% complete
Its kinda never done but it works.


As of Summer 2014: 2JZGTE R154 Installed & Running

After many long nights of fitting and modding and parts searching and testing I'm really happy with the result.

The First Start (Spring 2014)

So for all of you who have waited patiently to see my project unfold I have some news! I met my springtime goals and finished up my engine swap, she started up like a champ after more than 3 years of being apart in project mode.

The first start up was not without its drama, before this video we had tried starting the motor 3-4 times and were discouraged we had a no start condition, turns out we muffed up the fuel pump connection and with a quick wire change she fired up to our amazement. The smoke we later discovered was the result of an old engine sitting for so long she dried out her valve stem seals. Once the car was running it smoked for a few weeks before I got all of what I needed to change all the valve stem seals.

And.. the first drive home was not without its drama.

Once I was confident the car would run I had it towed to have a custom tig welded stainless steel turbo back exhaust made. And, looking back I made the bit foolish decision to pick up the car at night and attempt to drive it 60 kilometers back to my house across the city on the highway with no more test drive time than a lap around the shops parking lot. I also discovered I had a bad flair bolt snag in the back so I had to get that cut off at the shop at 10pm before I set off with my car. Could have called the towing at that point but I wanted to try my luck, Roadkill it as they say!! The good news is that the car made it home, the bad news is that I chewed up a power steering pump for the various reasons I discovered afterwards.

I spent some time with an empty garage. I'll tell you this is the single weirdest feeling you can ever feel after putting so many hours into something and being so familiar with it on a day to day basis that this sight makes your stomach sink. It was swapped in this garage and it ran for the first time in this garage. And it was gone for the first time in 4 years from this garage... eerie feeling.

To my amazement, she made it home.

Exhaust Tips Installed and Sound Clip

Changing the Valve Stem Seals

When I got the parts I changed the valve stem seals, it went well with a Toyotool Valve master and a good set of valve stem seal pliers. You should do this to every Supra you own of any year and any engine, they all smoke and its because of the stem seals. After doing this I discovered finally that I had a healthy engine and was very pleased at what I had accomplished.

The rope trick

Wheel Fitment and squat under load problems. But I felt the wheel needed to sit where it is and also to accommodate the tire, so the body was adjusted accordingly. Back up in the air she went for more reworking

With the wheel and tire combo I wanted, and how I wanted the car to sit I had to do some work on the rear arches. Firstly I cut out a good strip of fibreglass in the rear arches pretty much removing the lip of the fibreglass flare completely towards the center, a good 3/4" of the arch lip had to be removed and I worked up a bit at a time to not remove more than I had to, I started with my suspension set stiff and I went softer a bit at a time under full load from the motor and found where it rubbed and took out some more until it has finally stopped, along with the fibreglass I had to pass the roller numerous times to ease the rear bodywork up and out of the way, worked good you cant tell under the rear flares, its great. I also raised it today but I don't have picture of what it looks like yet, only went up 1/2" or so in the rear to level it out.

Then I finally drove it a bit, and it was great.

It was like old times, but with boost now !

After the BCC Install, I could finally keep my foot down


I don't know how fast it is yet, 105mph is as far as I've got it (on a closed circuit) how fast could it go? anyone know? 300+ whp, 3.73 gears small weight reduction, no spare tire or junk in the car. Just haven't had the place or opportunity to see where it will top out with the ups and downs of the things I had to fix on the car after the swap.

Once I fiddled with it a bit I was able to start driving it, since the spring I have changed the valve stem seals, rebuild the diff a second time because, its a long story, and I installed a solid pinion spacer the second time around to not have the same problems again. Pre load on a diffs pinion is quite important and my first rebuild ended up with an over-crushed sleeve and a whiny diff so it got rebuilt a second time now it works good with the 3.73 gears and the true track (thumbs up) I can rebuild diffs now.

Solid Diff Pinion Spacer Modification and Install

I had to modify the toyota truck solid pinion spacer to fit over my pinion shaft because I couldn't locate a Supra IRS pinion spacer in quick haste (Weir never answered my emails someone should think of stocking those spacers)

For those who like more of a visual of what the pinion spacer does have a look at this example:

Wheel hop was also an issue, this helped a lot. Solid top diff mount bushings from Raptor Racing! Buy them and change them, dont ask any questions about it.

If you have any questions or comments about the information in this thread shoot me a PM. thanks.

I like Boost
3,725 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Suspension // Shocks Struts and supporting mods


The install thread for the front:

KYB AGX. Applications:

FRONT: Uses the REAR SW20 MR2 Strut insert. I modified my strut tubes, shortening them to accommodate the SW20 inserts and I also welded spring perch collars.

T3 Roll center adjusters, bump steer is your enemy.

Cusco MA61 Camber Plates

SUPERPRO Polyurethane Bushings

- Bushings for front tension bars, because the first set of Energys got destroyed by a shitty alignment shop.
- Bushings to replace lower focus bushings for Superpro MA61 bushings so the mounting is correct.

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////


The install thread for the REAR:

KYB AGX. Applications:

~2000 Ford Focus REAR adjustable 8 way shock

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Springs and Chassis Mods


Ground Control (eibach) Coil over sleeves
- Aluminum Anodized Collars and Eibach Springs (Compose the ground control kit)
- 500 LBS spring rate


Eibach Rear springs
- 5.5” tall by 9.5” tall uncompressed. 8.5” compressed 400 LBS spring rate

Adjustable Spring spacers (weld on)
- Adjustable from 2.5” under stock to 2.5” over stock.

Daves2jzgte’s Weld-in Rear Camber Mod
- 0.7 degrees negative camber at 2.5 inches of drop in the rear

LJM front Strut Bar

TSC Rear Strut Brace (Installed 02-10-2010)

Addco Sway Bars
- Front is 1 1/8” thick 15lbs
- Rear is ¾” 10.8lbs

Addco Rear bar installed 02-10-2010

Super Pro Polyurethane bushings

Reference Pictures

Completed Strut Assembly (to be installed along with the engine)


I like Boost
3,725 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)

Nissan Parts for the most all modified to fit the Supra. A big thanks to Raj, a lot of the information I used came right out of his thread, thanks man.

Except for the Master Cylinder
- Upgraded to a Toyota 4Runner master cylinder (1-1/16 bore)

FRONT Brake Discs and Calipers

Z32 (1989-2000) front calipers from a 300zx.
- Aluminum
- 4 piston
- Caliper Bolts straight up to MK2 front struts in stock caliper location. (no modification required for 280mm stock 300zx discs)
- ** I purchased these calipers with spacers already made to adapt them to a 330mm diameter disc but this mod did not work out because the BBK calipers are needed to fit the 330mm disc correctly.

- 280mm stock 300zx Rotors (Scroll down for machining procedure to re-drill for 4-lug use)
- Z32 300 zx calipers
- Stoptech Kevlar
- Raptor Racing stainless steel brake lines
- 15mm wheel spacer with ARP extended studs (I ditched the bolt on wheel spacer idea in the front in the end)

300zx Calipers on 4 Corners
Yes Green, I dont know why but green


So as I mentioned I had issues with the Front big brake swap that I had tried, originally in my thread you see I have installed 330mm 350z BBK rotors, and I ran into a problem when I heard the pads rubbing the discs when turning at low speeds, after inspecting the mounting bracket I discovered the 3/4" thick aluminium bracket is not strong enough to suppot the caliper for this brake swap. I had bought this from a person who had developed this bracket for their celica gts and in the end it didnt work out for me. But I haven't given up on the cheap front BBK yet because I figure with the correct calipers and a steel bracket the 350z 330mm bbk can be used with 17" wheels. But for the moment I downgraded to my back up plan which is what I am running on the car for now, the 280mm 300zx discs with the 300zx calipers, with stoptech kevlar pads. It can lock the tires up so for now it holds the car down.

This might have looked great and stopped hard but it was not safe in my opinion because the incorrect caliper was being used. Never trust other peoples judgements when installing custom parts. Live and learn nobody got hurt.

REAR Brakes

The rear brakes worked out pretty good, the custom bracket works, the calipers are well positioned but I'm having issues with my frankenstein handbrake, I managed to shimmy the z32 rear brake shoes into the rear with a bit of the z32 hardware kit and my handbrake just wont grab, I cant open up the shoes enough and still get the discs on and adjust the handle to the end of the cable end and get nothing. So I still don't have a handbrake but I am determined.

- Z32 Nissan 300zx rear calipers to finish up the rear, and Brembo blank discs 296mm.

- Z32 300zx brake rotors
- Z32 300zx calipers with custom mounting bracket
- Stoptech Kevlar Brake pads
- Raptor racing stainless steel braided segment to hardline

The Custom mounting brackets, I had these laser cut

Rear Rotors

The REAR is the same procedure, as the front, please scroll down to see the machning procedure to fit these rotors on the rear of the mk2)

Z32 Nissan 300ZX rotors: 296mm and I've yet to get my handbrake to work -_-

Z32 Nissan 300ZX REAR calipers with an adapter bracket to fit them to the car at the right height and orientation.

Z32 Rear brake swap



For those who think these are not available in the after-market any more: Hand Brake shoes:

Napa can get them: Altrom Part #: 0852404

Application: 1992 Toyota Camry

Spring Kit: Application 1984 Toyota Celica:

MA60 Disc

Z32 Disc

Fitment I think the one on the left is upside down o_O anyways:


Modifying the Discs for 4-Bolt configuration

Nissan 300zx Front Discs modding them to fit.
- 280mm diameter 5 bolt disc used instead of 330mm track disc (requires Nissan BBK Calipers) and custom steel bracket to mount the caliper. (330MM discs used as the demonstration example)
- **(1)Re-drilled lug pattern to 4x114.3
- **(2)Centering ring made to float the disc on the front face of the MKII hub.
- **(3)Machine front MKII Hub hats to fit inside diameter of disc.

Re-drill to 4x114.3 and have a center ring made.

Machine down hub hat diameter so the disc slides over snugly.

Video of machining procedure

Comparison (260mm-330mm)


The front MKII disc set up consists of a disc bolted to the back of the hub. For the 330 MM z32 swap you must machine pieces to place the disc in front of the hub. To "float it". Float because it is not attached to the hub. Once the wheel is bolted, it will secure it in place.

To do this swap using the stock MKII hub you must follow these steps.

- Have disc re-drilled to 4x114.3 to fit Supra hub bolt pattern.
- **(2) You must have a centering ring made to ensure the discs are hub centric. Not lug centric, if you just bolt them with no centering ring you run the risk of having vibrations from the discs. The reason you do this is because the 350Z discs inner hub diameter is larger than the MKII disc, you must fill this space to make the disc hub centric. Just like you would buy little plastic spacers to make your wheels hub centric. Same principal.

- If you wish to go with a 330mm disc you must have a custom bracket machined to raise the caliper height to fit over the disc and use 350z BBK calipers.

I like Boost
3,725 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
2JZGTE R154 Conversion
The 2JZ Swap Bible:

Project Start Date: December 2010 -- Project Completion Date: May 2014 :D

BEFORE the 2JZ Swap

The Fuel Riders Photoshoot 2010

Dont mind the title LOL

The Ultra Ride Montreal September 2010

Conduite a Droite annual meet 2010

Supra Quebec Cards. Thanks Amélie ;)




June 3rd 2011

June 15th 2011

June 27th 2011






June 25th 2011

July 4th 2011

The Base coat is applied ;)

July 5h 2011

Bring on the clear

July 19th 2011

Things are coming along slowly, but this is what I've been working on in the past little while

Engine is almost ready, have the wiring left to do still.

Test fitted it a couple more times but its still not in the car.

Rebuilt my trans with the help of one of my good buddies who is a diesel mechanic with a driftmotion rebuild kit and all the Marlin Crawler parts that are available. We were able to do it with my mini 12 ton shop press in my tiny garage, whatever it takes.

There is a first time for everything

But we got it done, I sandblasted the casing at work and painted it with a sandblasted effect paint from VHT to make it look brand new, and it does !

Decided the Nashman V2 was the coolest shifter for my build

Started putting the front end back together but I'm looking for some replacement bumper cover hardware because mine is all too rusted to reuse now..

Covered this up to measure for clearance for the wheels.

Bought XXR 531 wheels in 17". 17x8 in the front, using a 15mm bolt on spacer. 245/40/17 BfgCompSports tires

17x9 in the back with a 25mm spacer, going to shave the flare a bit. I spent a long time deciding whether to run a 20 or a 25 but I went with the 25 to equal the front track width as much as possible, we'll see what happens. 275/40/17 Nitto NT555 tires

Installed the camber plates

I'm getting over the hump I think.

When I look back :S Lol


I like Boost
3,725 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Throttle Body Mod

- Ditched the traction control actuator and cut off the motor flange to add the flange for an SSQV BOV

Ready for the BOV

Mounted the coolers (they are connected up now too)

Rebuilt the Diff

- Swapped to 3.73 gears
- Swapped to Tru Trak diff
- Replaced all the bearings

Took apart 2 diffs to collect a good casing and axle stubs

3.73 Eaton / Stock 4.10

Made dinner

LSD and ring gear mated

Repaired the 2jz harness extensively.

- Extended
- All broken connectors changed
- Automatic stuff all deleted and wires pulled from the harness
- Tach connected
- Electrical passed for aftermarket gauges

Installed some aftermarket gauges and a hood

- AEM Wideband
- Autometer Oil pressure
- Autometer Oil temperature
- Autometer Boost

Had to rip out the dash to pass the wires

I drilled the Union bolt to hook up my gauge senders

But it was worth it. She has power for the first time after 3 years of sitting.

Shes almost ready to start now


I like Boost
3,725 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Odds and ends

Converted Dash to LED bulbs


Taking dash apart

Remove old bulbs

Retro fit LEDs Compared to old bulbs


Steering wheel and adapter

- Momo 300mm vintage wheel (was once installed on an alfa romeo) Picked it up from a Buddy
- Momo MkII adapter (ebay)
- Installed



I like Boost
3,725 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My photobucket must be messed up, all the other comps in my house I see the pics. Weird. I'll keep my eye on it and if the pics dont appear I'll try and replace them again.

514 Posts
Awesome job on the write-up so far. It's good to see the step by step pictures. Especially, with the brakes. Any plans for the rear with RX7 calipers?

I can tell you got some past mods to cover, cause your car is KLEEEEN! I'm looking forward to seeing a spotless 2J cradled in the bay.
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