A rebuild close to complete...
Time for an update…
I have worked many long hours and spent about as much time reading as I did wrenching. Anyone that knows me, knows that I pay attention to details and want to make sure that when I do this, I do it right.
Parts purchased
(Summary of items replaced)
• Cam tower gaskets
• Cam shaft seals/gaskets
• Valve cover gaskets
• DVV valve (valve assy, magnet #88690-14530)
• Blower motor assembly
• A laundry list of hoses
• Radiator and cap
• Water pump
• Oxygen sensor
• Thermostat
• Felpro complete gasket set
• Air filter
• All new Gates belts, timing and accessories
• Distributor cap and rotor
• Timing belt tensioner
• NGK Spark plugs / NGK wires
• Power steering pump
• Remanufactured rack and pinion unit
• A/C compressor
• A bunch of misc items and replacement fluids
Interior
The first owner ripped out all his audio equipment, minus sub-par high-end speakers. So the tape deck had to go. I purchased a Clarion CZ501head unit with built-in Bluetooth. It also is Sirius and HD radio ready.
I installed the radio and ran the Sirius SC-C1 module wires into the glove box so that I could swap the Sirius module back and forth from my Tundra and Supra when desired. The satellite antenna was placed on the passenger side corner of the dash. This leaves a simple, clean install that does not damage the interior.
I just returned from the NE PA meet and can comment on this unit. I listen to Sirius radio exclusively and the unit had a difficult time accessing the module. I believe that this head unit may be defective as it initializes slow and changes channels slow. When tuned into a station, the reception is flawless and clear.
I will say this, being an audiophile, I am having a difficult time not installing an amplifier and subwoofer system…Honestly, a small sub will be installed in the future to balance out the high end.
Now, on to the DVV valve. That little thing will drive you crazy! I would have taken a picture but I was too busy being a contortionist laying on my back, front seat out, feet in back seat and working under the dash to get this replaced. Once installed, no more clicking! Nice.
The evening before leaving for the NE meet, I was on my way home, then there was a burning smell and the blower quit working (barely runs and makes noise more than moves air, lol). I am sure that I need a blower motor replacement....lucky me I have a new motor (thanks again, Mark). I had more difficulty replacing this then needed.
I took about 6 bolts and a couple clips out to get the blower housing to 'wiggle' so that when I took out those 3 main bolts holding the motor in, I could work the motor assembly out of the housing. Wow what a mess that was, scrubbing those fins (Used a small engine brush from a Harbor Freight kit). Anyway, works like a charm now.
Engine
This was the biggest issue after the purchase. I used several cans of brake cleaner as I pulled items apart. When possible, I scrubbed items in the basin and put back in the engine bay clean. I will say that without this site and friends to contact, this would have been 100x more difficult. If you want to do this job yourself, use the following references:
Paying homage to CS.com. This being my first engine repair, I had the workshop computer fired up for a step by step guide!
If you plan on doing the valve stem seals, there are a few tools that can make your life easier:
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Air compressor trick setting piston to TDC, use spark plug adapter fitting, I used 90psi of compressed air to hold valves in place as I removed springs/retainers/keepers in order to get to the valve seal
- Tools needed to Remove / Install springs, retainers, and keepers in order to get to the valve seals
o Tool 1:
KD 2078 is the standard spring compressor most commonly used for this job. I actually did not use this but for installation only of 2 springs. My air pressure must have been getting low and the valve started moving when using the first tool…so I compressed the spring and set it on the head and fumbled with the keepers…tool #2 is the bomb!
o Tool 2 is item number
Lisle 36200 and is extremely easy to use. Simply use the base only to press down on the spring (I did not even hit with a hammer…just lean in and move the tool from side to side so the keepers get sucked into the magnetic section and the spring, retainer, and keepers are removed…easy as that! To install, just put on the black install section and line up the keepers on the retainer/spring and push down….presto, no fumbling with keepers.
o Tool 3 are a set of valve seal pliers (
SP tools 92350). Yes, you can use needle nose but lets do this right people! This tool made it easy to grab the seal and remove. Don’t forget to scrape with fingernail as there are small pieces of rubber seal hiding in there. This tool also allows you to press against the new seal firmly and evenly to get it seated properly.
- Since I did not have any part of the head/cam towers resurfaced, I used copper spray on just about every gasket I replaced before installation. (I know Mark, I didn’t have to do that…just being thorough.)
Impressions
First start scared the crap outta me. Turned the key and the engine fired right up, no hesitation! …then the ‘clicking’. I bled the lifters very well using 5w30 dino and put them in the head. I had a long delay getting finished valve covers shipped to me and even though I used lots of assembly lube, I thought this might be the issue.
Then, after a minute of idle or so, the exhaust header started smoking…shut it down!
I made a few calls and was told that it was just all the oils and cleaning products burning off the engine. Also, as far as the ticking/lifters go, I was to go out and put my foot on the floor, hitting better than 5k rpms. I didn’t want to even move it but I took this advice, reluctantly. After arming the passenger seat with my halon fire extinguisher, I pulled out of the driveway and made several 1-2 mile pulls hitting the rev limiter in several gears...and wouldn’t you know it, now it purrs like a kitten!
After this break-in run, I changed the oil in the engine, transmission, and differential. I use Amsoil products in my cars and trucks. The results of my oil analysis in other vehicles have sold me on their products. I like Amsoil so much, I am a pending dealer.
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Engine oil: Amsoil 10W-40 (I chose the heavier weight for summer driving and given that it is a higher mileage vehicle, the high zinc formula will help prevent wear.)
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Transmission and Differential: Amsoil SevereGear 75W-90
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Coolant: I added Amsoil Coolant Boost (to better dissipate heat, prevent corrosion, and warm up quicker) to my new fill of 50/50 engine coolant
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Fuel: Amsoil performance enhancer added to first 87 octane fill to clean injectors and lines since these were untouched thus far
Even though it ran excellent, it was not close to being in time. Hats off to Damon and the guys for checking the timing and getting my idle to where it needed to be. Thanks guys, the car runs great!
I checked the engine oil with each fuel fill up, and the level never changed. No leaks! After breaking in the engine the way I did, and then running a stock 5M to redline time after time (to do my best to keep up with the forced induction guys at the NE meet), and travel to and from the NE meet of approximately 960 miles without issue, I would say that this build is a success!
During the travel to and from the meet, I managed to get around 24 mpg. My daily driver has arrived.
A quick engine bay comparison…
Before…
After…
The sound of a 5MGE at idle, ahhhhhh...
After Clay bar, ultimate compound, Tech Wax 2.0, Rain repellant on the windshield, and some tire shine for good measure…(Figures I get it shining once home from the NE meet!)
Remaining Punch List: I have a thread started
here
- Steering column control replacement (cruise control does not work, and wipers only work on INT)
- Get a replacement Clarion head unit
- Passenger side headlight needs wiring traced to get motor to raise and lower (replacement motor did not fix issue unless replacement motor was defective as well)
- Drivers side fog light support is nonexistent, passengers side fog light is out
- Air conditioning is not working (will replace the compressor, recharge, and pray! )
- Change power steering rack (flushed lines and changed pump, now works but intermittently)
- Replacement of wiper fluid fittings/lines to headlight sprayers (leak badly enough that resovior stays empty)
- Brake fluid replacement and braided lines (got a bit ‘spongy’ during Sat evening run)
- Adjust accelerator pedal as there is a bit of play before opening he throttle body
- Repair rust on sun roof, hatch, and lower exterior trim
- Suspension, intake, exhaust, clutch, etc. will be replaced, when needed, making upgrades as I go.
For those of you who had a hand in helping me with this build, let me sincerely say,
Thank you!
