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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I think I have finally acquired enough parts and modified my supra enough to officially start showing my progress on a thread without getting flamed.
Please note that this will be a slow build as I am a poor white kid and an overtime student.
Also, I'm not entirely sure that this will be a 6MGTE just yet. I have yet to get the 7M rotating assembly checked/machined, and based on the way the rod bearings look I fear the rods might also be toast. So we shall see, but this could very well end up being another 5MGTE build later down the road.

THE CAR
1985 P-Type
Modifications so far; Rear AGX conversion, GR2s in the front, ST springs w/ about 1.75 coils cut in the front and 1.5 in the rear, Ebay camber plates, SuperPro bushings all around, Intake silencer delete w/ lysol can =), AC/PS delete, 2.5'' side exit exhaust (straight from the cat).



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Icky engine bay



Parts collection so far
7M crank, rods, rod bearings, 3L oil pump driveshaft, 7M pulley and timing gear



.57 trim upgraded CT-26 w/ chimp oil and coolant lines, 7M manifold w/ gaskets, Ebay bov, heat shields



I also have 90a motor mounts and 80a tranny mount from Xcessive Manufacturing that I'll be throwing in during the build. I would love to hear some input from someone who has used these mounts as to whether or not they are bearable for the street. I don't mind the constant bouncing from the suspension but I imagine mounts that stiff could be a doozy.

Anyway, that's it for now.
Til' next time!
 

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If you are in fact doing a franken motor use your 5m belt gear. It fits over the 7m crank and will make your car in time with that you use the 5m belt
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've actually heard a wide range of suggestions about this. I was under the impression that the 7M snout was too large for the 5M gear to slide onto and you had to have the 5m gear innards shaved down for it to fit. Not sure if this is the case, but I really don't want to lose any material on such an important part. I guess I'll have to learn the hard way. Thanks for the tip though!
 

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^Incorrect. It is the 5M crank pulley that will not slid over the 7M snout.

I am researching all this crap atm. 7M pulley can be used if you cover all your accessories to 7M. 6M pulley is rare but can be sourced here or on yahoojapan. 5M pulley has to be machined out. People shy away from this option though.

You will also need to source a 7M oil pump shaft otherwise the crank will hit the 5M one. You also need to make sure that your lower timing cover is of the later 5M, not the earlier. Later 5Ms also get rounded timing gear teeth rather than square.




Good luck. Slow builds are the best builds... unless it's your daily.
 

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Would someone seriously link Tanya's Jdm 6m thread... That's all the info you need on how to make a 6m out of a 5/7m
 

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Yeah I derped on the oil pump driveshaft, as I had known about it but completely overlooked it when I was building it. So when I went to turn the crank with a ratchet and it wouldn't moved I had like 5 seconds of complete dumbfoundedness before I realized. So then I had to wait a week for one to be shipped to me so I could finish up the engine lol
 

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tanya, when i built my first franken-6m, i did the same thing. only i had the right shaft starring me in the face the whole time... lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for solidifying the facts. I've read Tanya's 6M thread (very well put together btw), it's how I knew to snag the 7M driveshaft while I was at it.
It's a bone stock 85 (motor wise) so the timing cover will be good and I already did ac/ps delete. Providing the alternator and water pump belts match up I should be in the clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've made some progress since that last post. About two weeks after I started the thread I went out to make a few videos with a couple friends. One ENTIRE day of 0-60 runs, sliding around some country back streets, taking slow rolling shots and what not. I did one set of donuts after all of that and spun a bearing instantly =(
I have pretty much all of the parts I need for the build now. Motor is out, torn down, getting prepped for 6MGTE build =)


Cam Covers off
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Cams appear to be fine. No marks, scratches, dark spots, etc.
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Head off
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Closer-up of pistons. Not too sure what to make out of the shape they're in.
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Close-up showing valve springs and overall 'decent' shape of head


Motor getting ready to come out




Giant chunk of cast iron, steel and aluminum suspended in midair


Lonely engine bay =(


Motor bolted to stand and oil pan off for investigation. This is where it gets interesting.


This is what was waiting for me.


Mangled rod bearing. By the time the rotating assembly was completely disassembled I found that 4 out of 6 bearings were not only f*$%ed but two of them (#2 and #5) were poking about a centimeter out of the cap.


Metal shavings sitting in the bottom of the oil pan


Fried rings


Mangled oil pump drive gears



The head is currently getting rebuilt back to stock (minus minimal shaving for perfection purposes). I took the block and damn near every solid piece of metal from the engine bay to a local machine shop to get tanked today. I'll get my head back tomorrow and everything should be good to grab from the machine shop by Tuesday. I'm getting so nervous/anxious/stressed over this build, I could just shit on myself.
I plastigaged the crank and rods. Clearances are perfect and the lines were completely straight.
Now for some pics of parts I've been receiving for the last two weeks.



2.5'' satin black intercooler piping w/ black intercooler, black couplers and stainless t-bolt clamps


New timing belt


Aisin Oil Pump


Stainless CT-26 3'' downpipe


Cometic 7M Head Gasket


Autometer boost gauge and AEM wideband sensor/gauge kit


2 sets of 4AGE bluetops. I no longer need these and they are for sale (negotiable).


ACL 7M bearings


New 7M front seal


ACT 7M-W58 single puck clutch


MK3 3-row radiator


ARP 7M rod bolts


ARP 7M head studs


NPR rings


Hallman MBC (good for 16psi)


New piston pin bushings


New TPS (original broke while I was taking the intake manifold off)


Megasquirt 52-pin DIYPNP ECU


Walbro 255 fuel pump


BillyM's Shiftgasm kit (I can't WAIT to see how this feels)



Those are all the pics I have for now. I have a set of 6 flow tested and cleaned 440s on the way and still need to get a few things machined. I'm also planning on doing an Accel ignition coil and an in-bay fuel pressure gauge for better monitoring.

'Til next time =)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks! The springs came out and went back in like 4 times to get it sitting how it is lol. Just a matter of trial and error.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Went at it last night for a bit. My goal was to get the bottom end completely assembled but I lost grip of one of the piston pin clips when I was breaking the pistons down to bare. It escaped the pliers, bounced around my garage for about 10 seconds and then into the wild yonder outside it went. I looked for it for about 10 minutes before I said f*%k it. Luckily, advance carries a snap ring assortment package that contained one that fit perfectly.

So, I'll be going back to work later tonight, but here are some pics of what I got done last night.


YAAAAYYYY! Entire disassembled 6M mixed parts, clean as hell and ready for action =)


Rebuilt head


I know it's hard to see, but this shows the notch I had to grind out of the oil pump platform. This allows the 7M crank to clear it.

Purty clean pistons. I've been tossing around the idea of doing my own ceramic top coating but I think stock will hold up to my goal of 350whp.


Clean crank


Clean rods w/ ARP bolts installed. The quality difference is noticeable to the touch.


Block back on stand, bearings set and lubed, ready for crank to be set.


Crank sitting on mains


Main cap #1 w/ bearing set, lubed and ready for assembly.


Main cap #1 set (but NOT bolted down, just finger tight). It's a good idea to wait for all the caps to be set before you put any kind of torque on them. Then, follow the typical criss-cross pattern and stage torque those mofos. I went with 40lbs first stage, 60lbs second, and just under 80lbs on the third (I figure the extra few pounds couldn't hurt considering the extra stress the bottom end will be enduring)


All main caps torqued down. The crank spins with next to no effort and clears the oil pump platform by a mile. For some odd reason, this felt like a huge milestone in this build.


I'm gonna try to get the bottom end back together tonight (i.e pistons and rods assembled and connected to crank, oil pump and driveshaft in, front and rear seals on).
More pics tomorrow or Friday.
'Til next time.
 

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That must be a later 7M crankshaft (not the 6M crankshaft). I see every crank throw is counterweighted, making the crank heavier than the 6M crank. A 6M (or W9 crank LOL) would have cleared the 85 block with no grinding needed.

Thank you for the pic showing where material has to be removed from the block for the 7M crankshaft! That is very helpful to anyone using the later 7M crank in a homemade 6M build.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, the crank and rods are 7M (F1 stamp on the crank). I don't mind the extra 2 or 3 pounds of rotating mass as torque is a bigger concern than power figures for me.
I certainly hope to help people who need it while building their own 6Ms. Lord knows you and others on this site have helped me to even get this far.
 

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Where'd you pick up that 3" downpipe? If you don't mind me asking. Nice build by the way! & I'm digging your stance. How many inches is it dropped?
 
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