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The DIYPNP itself is done and works. The issue now is the EDIS setup in the car. Gonna replace all that and it should run again.
 

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I've got an entire EDIS setup i got in a package deal with some other junk if you want it. Was just going through my boxes of shit i can't remember touching and found these in there... I figure i'd rather run LS style coils since i'm giong to be starting from scratch anyway. Easier to upgrade later i figure, and easier to carry spares on trips for possibly.
http://i.imgur.com/7o7jM1a.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qWqjfch.jpg
 

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We have tach signal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I ran the shielded wire for the pip and saw, no dice. Made sure all the proper pins had +12v or +5v. They did. Checked grounds. Found the harness grounds the bolt was loose, so added a 6awg wire from there to the neg battery terminal and tightened the bolt. Had a quick blip to 200rpm, then nada, but still works in my 84, wtf. Well, while I fixed a jumper inside so that the unit wont stay on once the key was off, I noticed the Vr+ and Vr- jumpers were still in place. Im thinking, ok, there are no wires for vr in my 84 setup, but they are on his engine harness as he had used the distributor wiring. I cut those jumpers out, and voila! Now has a tach signal. IDK if they were shorting together, or just picking up interference or what, but the tach signal issue is resolved. Im heading out to get some gas so I can fire this baby up to hear it. Neighbor's are gonna be pissed, no muffler. MUAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!
 

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Well, I started it and it ran. The lifters are ticking something fierce, and I heard something make the motor jump hard, but it didnt sound like rod knock. Shook the motor pretty hard multiple times, then all the sudden it was smooth again. Also, even though its an aluminum radiator, the temp got up to 220 fairly quick. Yes, it was full of coolant and water. might have had air bubbles though, but I would have expected them to be gone since the thermostat was open at that point. I need to pull the motor to install the water pipe that wraps around the block to the suicide hose port. Also sounded like a vacuum leak somewhere, need to track that down also, but it RUNS!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Not done, but a big hurdle is out of the way. Im gonna pull the motor to install the wrap around water pipe and see what is making the noise in the bottom. I suspect the #2 rod cap is nicking the oil pump. Ran into that on one of my 7mgte swaps. I can grind the bolt hole out in the pump to rotate it out of the way for clearance, so not a big deal. Also, the lifters are ticking so probably need re-bled since the car sat so long. Gonna pull the head and tear it down. I want to port it and then reassemble it. Im going to port the upper and lower intakes to the gaskets as well. Try to get every single hp out of this thing I can. It is a 6m with domed 5m pistons so should be a lil over 10:1 compression since the block and head have been surfaced. It sounded pretty good when it ran. Good deep throaty exhaust note, even without a muffler.

also, I drew up a circuit to control the circuit opening relay as it requires a +12v signal to STA to turn the fuel pump on. I bought the components, just need to build it and test it. If it works I will post the circuit for others to add to their DIYPNP so they wont have to jump the check connector or splice into any wires to get the fuel pump to run, and it will be controlled by the megasquirt like it should be. Primed when key is first turned on, then only on when there is a tach signal.

I also drew up circuits to eliminate the EDIS and use a cps on my 7mgte in the 84 so I can run direct coil control so I can use launch control and anti lag. I have some 1zz smart coils to use with it. I may start on that project too. I will try to use a 2j distributor, but if I cant get it to lock in place properly, I have a 7mgte cps still, though cant seem to find the mint one I had with the connector cut off. i hope I didnt sell that one. lol.
 

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Because it is a 7mgte. I was referring to my 84 when I mentioned the CPS. I will leave the 6m in Dans car on EDIS. However, with EDIS, it is not possible to run launch control or antilag, so that is why I will be changing my 7mgte away from it. The plan is to use a spare 2jzge distributor on it, but the "arm" where the bolt goes through is shorter. i could cut it and weld a piece in to make it longer, but suspect the heat required would damage the VR sensors themselves, so will try something else I have up my sleeve. Wont be the prettiest, but should work. The 2jz Dizzy has a much larger 24 tooth wheel, plus it is much newer so less age, and wear and tear on the vr sensors inside of it.
 

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Oh right you were talking about the 7mgte, sorry i am easily confused. I don't see the advantage of a 24 tooth wheel being a bit larger, 24 is 24 right? Definitely see the advantage of a newer tighter unit with less wear and tear though.

Here is a thread i found while trying to google a bit to wrap my head around the guts of all the different dizzies, but it may help you out? Not sure though, you always seem to have tricks up your sleeve haha. Basically looks like to fit the 7mgte cps on a 2jzge in place of it's distributor you cut a notch for the mount/adjustment nut.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-delete-pics-w-7m-gte-cps-vvti-coilpacks.html
 

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Yes, but I am doing the reverse, and the 2jz arm is shorter, so the slot doesn't line up with the bolt hole on the 7m head, and the section it sits on is hollowed out, so cant just drill and tap a hole. I am contemplating welding something here to do just that though if my other idea doesnt work. I would rather not put any heat into the head though.

As for why the larger wheel is better, it is more accurate, as the teeth are farther apart, and also should be a cleaner signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Man, the things I used to throw fits about 🤦‍♂️

The car is back in my possession now. It probably won't become the gem that it would have had Will kept it. My father gave me this car when I was far too young and now I feel the need to try to redeem myself.

I'd like to apologize to everyone who tried to give me advice in this thread for how I reacted. In hindsight, I thank the contributors and experts in this forum for the vast bank of knowledge you all provide.

Let's see if I can get it right this time.

The effects of earlier abuse shine in the daylight.
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Getting ready for its fourth teardown. I'm not sure why it would have run so well and then developed so many odd symptoms between the time that I drove it and the moment Will fired it up after sorting out my nest of wiring. He's given me some suggestions and, suffice to say, I have faith he's right. At this point, I'm just scared to find all of my..eh..craftsmanship.
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How most of the intake cam lobes look. The exhaust cam is in much better shape. Between the rust spots and wipe marks, I'm not sure what to make of it. I can't grab any of it with my nail and the wipes seem mild. Would emery cloth and polishing be appropriate here? Engine lab in Tampa can regrind but it's an expense I'd rather save if unnecessary.
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This one really gets me. I recall having an issue with a bolt protruding against the back of the lower timing plate and breaking it, but there is nothing behind the upper timing plate that could do this. What's even better is it doesn't look like anything leaked through it. Will said that it overheated rather quickly. I'm wondering if the coolant passage that it covers is fed by the hose I rigged from the water pump to the back of the head?
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Cam towers removed and I think I found the noisy lifter. It's the only one that didn't raise out of its bore.
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Screwing around after removing intake plenum
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Rusty water dripping out of cylinder 1 intake port after removing manifold. Getting nervous now.
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Head removed; fear confirmed. Looks like the lifter was holding that valve open long enough to build moisture through the years. Will advised I hit it with some PB blaster to see if it cuts through the rust. I did, and parts of the bore are clean almost instantly. Other areas, not so much. I'll let it sit a little longer and continue disassembling with the hope that all she'll need is a good honing and some new rings.
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Discussion Starter #134
All the other cylinders look proper. No signs of head gasket leaks anywhere. I sure hope there isn't a larger, underlying issue here. I keep thinking back to when it tipped over on the engine stand and can't help but wonder if there may be cracks inside the block somewhere. Better just hope not I suppose 🤷‍♂️
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I find myself doing this way too often.
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Let's get a closer look at the HG near cylinder one. I suspect forcing the rear upper plate on might have been interfering with the head gasket itself, the plate can easily pinch or bind on the gasket if not paid at to
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Tanya, could that also have caused the plate to crack around the bolts as it did? Iirc, it went on quite easily. That's to say, I dont recall any force being needed to install. Just kind of 'slid on'. Heres pictures of the top and bottom of cylinder 1 head gasket bore.
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Hmm looks alright to me, can't imagine how the plate broke but I would definitely double check literally everything.. never seen that plate brake before and I'm surprised it wasn't pouring oil out the front
 

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Discussion Starter #138
That's one of my biggest concerns at the moment. My understanding is that the large port at the front of the head, the one that sits directly behind those bolts on the timing plate, is a coolant passage. It looks like nothing has traveled through it. I also thought that this coolant came from a pipe or hose that routes from the water pump to the nipple on the back of the head. Somewhere, somehow, I got something wrong there.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
Ok. Thank you for clarifying. I always thought it looked too large to be an oil passage and just assumed it was a coolant passage. I suppose that doesn't make me feel a whole lot better about it being completely dry :oops:
I know it's been a while since it ran, but shouldn't there be some residual fluid around it?
 
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