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I forgot to give you the replacement EDIS6 module and pigtail I grabbed years ago at the junk yard to clean the wiring up further. I think i already replaced the connector on your coil pack. If not, I have a replacement here somewhere. IDK how water got in that cylinder. I wish I had pulled the engine years ago after I got it running again and it wouldn't have rusted.

That rear cover breaking, did you have the head surfaced with it bolted to the head? If not, maybe it just needed decked, and thats why it cracked? I have never seen one broken either. All i did was work on the MSDIYPNP and get it working again, and then rewired the coil pack, and VR sensor to the EDIS6 module and from the module to the ECU as I recall. That was it. It ran for 20-30min while i let autotune do its thing. While running, it got a high pitched squeal that was coming and going. I assumed it was the oil pump shaft bearings not being lined up correctly, but maybe it was the #1 piston with water in it? The car was in neutral the whole time and I literally never drove it. It also got a intermittent knock which to me sounded like the #2 rod cap nut hitting the banjo fitting on the oil pump outlet. I had a similar issue on my 7mgte once.


The cam lobes look fine. The entire lobe is not supposed to be shiney, only the part that wipes on the rocker arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Will,

It looks to me like you already put a new EDIS module and pigtail in. At least it's much cleaner than I left it. Should be sufficient to loom once it's running in my book.

I hope you're not thinking that I suspect you to be the culprit for any of these defects. This car is leaps ahead of where I left off.

The timing plate was not milled with the head. I hadn't even considered this and is likely the reason it cracked.🤦‍♂️

Still haven't had a chance to pull the pan. The block is on the stand now and waiting for me. I missed my chance yesterday to tear the rest of it down so it may be a little while before I can get back to it. In the meantime, I'll keep spraying that bore down with penetrator. It's looking more positive every time (y)
 

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I have an EDIS6 module and pigtail in fornt of me in my office. I found it digging for some other stuff so figured I hadnt swapped it out yet. If its already been corrected, I must have grabbed this as a spare. They are getting hard to find in the junkyards now.
 
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I cracked my inner upper timing cover the exact same way too on my 6m build!

It was also a but of a mystery as I recall, (that was like 2009) but I too made the mistake of not machining that cover down bolted on when I had the head milled, and had to cut it down with a file to get it to fit so I likely didn't get it right the first time and the lower edge probably was catching when I bolted it up. Actually as I recall, it went on ok but I found it cracked later on after diagnosing a bad oil leak from that area (which is what you almost always get if you don't have that piece machined and aligned perfectly). Anyways, I replaced it and was super careful with filing down the new piece and it hasn't cracked again or leaked (knock on wood).
 

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Discussion Starter #145
One of those moments that make you question the entire build up to that point.

Now I'm wondering if the head gasket is ok to reuse. There's a light impression I just noticed tonight. I'll need to get a picture and post tomorrow when I get home and have some daylight. I sure dug myself a hole with this thing. I may as well have the head shaved down the rest of the way while its apart and im dumping this kind of coin into it. Anyone know if 11:1 is possible with milling alone? :poop:
 

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Being it is 9.8:1 without any milling at all (Domed 5M pistons on 7m Crank and Rods), it might already be there depending on how much has already been removed from the block and head. I "might" have a stock hg laying around. if so, you can have it to get it up and running N/A. I wont be using it. Might even have more than 1 stock HG if I haven't given them away yet. I buy the full gasket kits, but dont use the HG.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
That would be awesome, brother. Personally, I'd be comfortable boosting on the stock HG if I ever decided to try it again. Seems there are quite a few testimonies out there of using stock HGs with ARP bolts for moderate boost, especially 7M builds. Maybe we can trade the HG for those 1ZZ coils?

I don't believe the block was decked. The head was shaved .03" and some change iirc. I've always had trouble determining where that would land the CR. At one point I pegged it about 10.8:1 with an online calculator but surely that can't be accurate. If it's that easy to get more compression out of these things, I just might go to town on this head and turn it into a 3-liter squeezer
 

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You have to measure the cc of the combustion chamber of the head to be able to calculate the compression. It doesnt change a set amount milling it 0.030".
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Both 'stock compression' and 'material removed' were inputs. It also asked for bore, stroke, several cam specs, piston dome volume, and a few others I dont remember anymore. I didn't figure I'd be able to take it to the bank anyway
 

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Stock compression would be 9.8:1 for the configuration you have.
 

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Bad news. Looks like I do not have any stock HG's laying around. apparently I gave them all away already. I will probably buy another 7mgte gasket kit here in the next week or 2, so you can have the hg out of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Bad news. Looks like I do not have any stock HG's laying around. apparently I gave them all away already. I will probably buy another 7mgte gasket kit here in the next week or 2, so you can have the hg out of that.
That's alright. I'm not even entirely sure I need a new one. Considering my plans, I'd rather have an HKS or Cometic in there. You're still more than welcome to the coils. Itll be some time before I put any to use.
 

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Boosting on a stock HG.... I don't even suggest people use the stock HG on stock 5ms anymore. There just isn't a good design available in a paper composite design for our engines. They all fail eventually. Go metal once and then never worry about it again (assuming you get all your mating surfaces refinished properly).
 

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Boosting on a stock HG.... I don't even suggest people use the stock HG on stock 5ms anymore. There just isn't a good design available in a paper composite design for our engines. They all fail eventually. Go metal once and then never worry about it again (assuming you get all your mating surfaces refinished properly).

I bought an Ishino Stone head gasket set because it was literally the ONLY composite head gasket I could find that used metal rings around the water jackets. Torqued to 75 on my 174k mile 5MGE so we will see how it goes!

But for sure, boosted anything needs the metal gasket or else you're just asking for failure, and the eventual "M engines are trash, I'm going JZ" anthem emerges 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Boosting on a stock HG.... I don't even suggest people use the stock HG on stock 5ms anymore. There just isn't a good design available in a paper composite design for our engines. They all fail eventually. Go metal once and then never worry about it again (assuming you get all your mating surfaces refinished properly).
I've seen several 7MGTE rebuilds using only ARP studs on the stock HG. They say it holds "low boost", but I suppose that's subjective. Not saying its a good idea. Just that it's been done. At any rate, I ordered a new HKS gasket because I dont trust my judgement either.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Bottom end is disassembled and, as one might expect, the results are discouraging.

Maybe it's about time I add a Nestle sticker to the firewall
16204


Large pieces of rusty, corroded metal accumulated on the pickup screen. How do I keep doing this?
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Will is definitely right about something causing the bottom end to bind intermittently. It turns smoothly by hand for about 7/8 of a full rotation and then gets 'grainy' and needs a wrench to force it through that last bit. It occurs in the same crank position everytime, toward the top of cylinder 1/6 stroke. Could the #1 bore really be that bad off? I know it's not the #2 rod cap nut now. There's plenty of clearance between it and the crossover tube/nut. I was really hoping it was going to be that simple. How silly of me.
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Double checking the clearance I made on the oil pump platform for the crank throw. Plenty of space here as well.
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More chunks of metal coming out of coolant passage after removing lower timing plate.
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Turns out the oil pump driveshaft bearings were aligned after all. I could only get decent light on the front bearing but the rear bearing is in the same condition. Both driveshaft journals look good as well.
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20210110_111258.jpg

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Maybe this is the source of my metal debris? If so, how does this happen? I just dont get it.
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Pump rotors look fine as well. No sign of interference.
16213
 

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Discussion Starter #157 (Edited)
All of the rod bearings and journals look the same. On the bearings, there are some dark spots and light scratches that dont catch my nail. On the journals, there are no defects at all that I can see that might cause marks on the bearings. 🤷‍♂️
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Main bearings are a little worse. Some of the scratches did catch a nail. But, mysteriously, still no significant marks or defects on the journals.
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The bore is worse than I thought. I'm no longer confident that I can hone it back to suitable condition. It took some serious beating with a rubber mallet to get the piston free of the cylinder. It chewed up the rings on the way out and didn't take much of the rust with it.
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Yet again, I find myself at a loss. What could have caused teeth to break off of the oil pump gear if there was no resistance to cause it? All of the bearings were intact. No material missing anywhere else in the engine that could have been lodged in there as far as I can tell. I have to be missing something here.

If I decide to rebuild, it's getting bored. No way am I taking a chance on that cylinder with just a hone. But the bearings have me distraught too. Without any defects on the journals, can the scratches and discoloration be chalked up to corrosion from the water/oil mix?

Lots to ponder before taking my next steps. I really hope this thing is salvageable
 

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Your using the proper oil pump driveshaft right, the one with the notches?
 
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