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Discussion Starter #1
I just replaced my entire stereo system in my car and after putting everthing back together my gauge lights don't work. Everything else works fine and all fuses seemed to be intact. I checked all the connections under the steering column and under the dash and everything seems to be connected. Does anyone have any advice? One other thing, after i installed the stereo the trouble light under the hood doesn't work and seems to be burned pretty bad at the harness. Thanks.
 

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do your taillights work?
any burnt fuses?
does your glove box light work?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i checked my tail lights and they don't work. The stop lights work but none of the parking lights or tail lights work. I'll check the glove box. Also the cig light doesn't work either.
 

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Isn't there a relay in that circuit as well? Could be that the relay blew out instead of the fuse. Just a thought. Also, I seem to remember reading somewhere that if one of the tail light bulbs is burned out, they all quit working. Have you checked the bulbs to make sure one of them isn't burned out?

Leslie
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, i checked the tail fuse under the hood and sure enough it was blown. i replaced that fuse and everything works now including the trouble light under the hood. I didn't realize the dash lights were hooked up to the tail lights. I tore apart half of my dash to find that out. Oh well, at least i'm really good at tearing apart the dash. Thanks for your help guys.
 

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You usually learn better doing it the hard way 8)
 

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Now i've got a new problem, well two problems. The fuse keeps blowing and my car just overheated tonight on the way home from walmart. This may sound like a stupid question, but can a faulty alternator cause the car to overheat? Since, i installed my stereo (consists of two amps) the alt has been acting weird. I know i need to replace it with something bigger but i disconnected the power wire from the amps at the battery.
 

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make sure everything is grounded right... I'm forever having overheating problems so I can't help you with that 8) I need some help myself.
 

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do you still have the electric fan in th e car (and working of course) I spoke to a guy who told me that it is almost impossible to keep the Mk2 from over hyeating without out the elctric fan. check that for over heating. As for your taillight fuse, where do you have your amps grounded to in your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think the overheating was caused by a leak on the block. Looks like a freeze plug or something that is leaking. Im not sure tho. A friend of mine is going to look at it tomorrow.

As for the amps, they are grounded in the trunk underneath the wooden cover on the frame.
 

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If the gauge lights dont work, could the little dimmer thing be bad? Ive checked every fuse, wire, about everything I can think of (even bought another cluster) but was curious if that could be the prob. I'll check the relays and stuff too, never knew they were there either.
 

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6M-Power said:
Now i've got a new problem, well two problems. The fuse keeps blowing and my car just overheated tonight on the way home from walmart. This may sound like a stupid question, but can a faulty alternator cause the car to overheat? Since, i installed my stereo (consists of two amps) the alt has been acting weird. I know i need to replace it with something bigger but i disconnected the power wire from the amps at the battery.
Does the fuse blow quickly or does it take some time? Does it blow just when the stereo is powered on? Does it blow just when the parking/driving lights are turned on? Does it blow just when the lighter is pushed in? Does it blow just when the brake is applied? OR does it blow when all these are operating simultaneously? OR does it blow immediately when you turn the key to ACC/ON?

Try each one individually and that will help to trace the culprit. Where do you have the stereo wired? If a lot of the stereo pieces are tapped into that one circuit you may be overloading that circuit. I wouldn’t believe a bad ground to the amps would cause fuse to blow, though I may be wrong. I would think that a bad ground would simply cause the amps to cut off. A not-so-good ground may also cause them to run a little hot and eventually blow the fuse on the amp itself but not the a fuse associated with the car.

You said the trouble light under the hood had some chard wire. That’s a definite sign of a short to ground. What wire was charred, the wire plugging into the back of the trouble light assembly or was it the coil of wire on the back of the light? Try unplugging the small harness on the back of the trouble light assembly AND unplug the hood pin switch. Does that cure the popping fuse? I can’t recall off hand where the trouble light gets it’s power, I’d have to look at my electrical manual, but the fried wire is a sure sign of trouble within that system.

Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.
Scott
 
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