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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
the best thing is to jack it up as high as you can then put jack stands under it. MAKE SURE THEY ARE ON THE FRAME AND NOT THE SUBFRAME!!!! HAVING THEM ON THE SUBFRAME BOLTS WILL CAUSE IT TO FLEX AND BE A PITA TO REINSTALL THE DIFF!!!!!.

remove the 4 nuts holding each half shaft to the diff.(14mm) then remove the 4 nuts and bolts that are holding the drive shaft to the diff.(12mm)

then remove the 2 19mm nuts that are facing the rear of the car just above the sway bar. leave the 2 bolts in the holes to hold the diff when you remove the other bolts. now remove the 4 17mm bolts from the top of the diff., then remove the 4 17mm bolts on the sides of the diff.(2 on each side)

once all bolts are removed, put a jack under the diff., leave about 1in between them. pull the 2 bolts that had the 19mm nuts on them out. you will probably have to smack it with a wrench. once it jars free, lower the jack and pull it out.



for reinstallation, place it on a jack and roll it underneath lined up as best you can. jack it up into place. if it seems to catch, keep jacking it up SLOWLY, it will pop into place, once it does, be sure those 2 bolts on top line up first and slide the bolts through. you may have to hit it to knock it one way or the other, you may also have to slightly lower the jack.

once you slide those in, lower the jack from the diff and place it under the nose of the diff. slowly jack up the nose of the diff until the front side bolts line up. then put the 4 17mm bolts in on the sides. once screwed all the way in( DO NOT TIGHEN THEM YET) try putting in the 4 top 17mm bolts. if they dont quite line up, try raising the nose slightly, they should line up.(worse case scenario youll need a long peice of pipe or the handle from a hydraulic jack to slide over the metal plate on top and pry it down a bit. or you could try loosening the 2 large front subframe bolts a lil to allow it to tilt. if so dont forget to tighten them back when your finished.)


once those 4 bolts are threaded in, tighten all 8 of the 17mm bolts, then tighten the 2 19mm nuts onto the bolts coming through the top rear.


then bolt the drive shaft and half shafts back on. then jack the car back up and remove the jack stands, lower the car. guess what, your finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well, i wrote it a couple years ago when i was busting diffs at the track and made the revision i ran into with holes not lining up on the black car. should help alot for anyone that hasnt done it. and i dont need to remove any diffs so wont do it to take pics as it can be a pita sometimes. funny thing is on the red car start to finish i did it in an hour by myself the 2nd time as the bolts werent rusted shut, but the black car was a huge pita when i installed the true trac, thats how i learned you have to pry the plate on top down to line the holes up when they are just off. i did that rather then loosen the 2 bolts holding the subframe as eric was there to thread the bolts in while i was prying. made it easier. lol.
 

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To add to this, when I put my diff back in I had the jackstands on the sub-frame itself by the rear suspension.

This caused soome upward flex in the sub-frame that kept the bolts from lining up really bad.

When I finally realized this I moved the jackstands farther toward the front of the car and put it right where the unibody channel is pretty wide like under the rear seats I believe.

This made the diff install much easier as the bolts lined up better.

Still had to work it around like William mentioned but with the stands where I had them there was no way I could have gotten the bolts in with all the flex fro mthe stands where they were.

Scott
 

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Just one more suggestion, build something like this:



Then use a nut or washers as spacers to make the diff sit flat square on the wood block. Its cheaper than dirt, easy to build and makes r&r'ing the diff a heckuva lot easier.
 

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Sweet.... 8)

This should help me out big time. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
now that ive read this again, the black car i did have the jack stands on the subframe bolts. so be sure to put the stands on the frame, and not the subframe and itll go much easier.
 

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this thread is nice but it would be very nice to see the steps to rebuilts the inner parts of the diff . Exemple, i'm thying the to find out how to remove the 7,5 inch ring and down know how to remove the inner side clips that hold the axles( the parts that bolt to it) And i don't find thread in this forum that talk about that.

If anyone know if there a thread concerning that subjet?

Thx!
 

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this thread is nice but it would be very nice to see the steps to rebuilts the inner parts of the diff . Exemple, i'm thying the to find out how to remove the 7,5 inch ring and down know how to remove the inner side clips that hold the axles( the parts that bolt to it) And i don't find thread in this forum that talk about that.

If anyone know if there a thread concerning that subjet?

Thx!

The TSRM has a really good break down on how to completely tear down, rebuild, and reassemble a diff.
 

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I need to add this:
Polish the sides if the diff housing and grease them up B-4 the install.It's a tight fit!
The next guy will thank you. Maybe your self.
Wanna put the diff in the refer overnight? It will shrink....

.020"(Not measured).
The FRAME is the jack stand points.
Next month for this old guy. ARRRGH!
 
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