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i am in desprate need of know if it is possible as i have a mk3 7MGTE supra with week old brakes calipers and disks that has just been written off. i want to know if it is possible to transfer the whole braking system because i have a nice set of 18in alloys also if the suspension can be transfered or if anything is possible to add to my mk2 5MGE supra from my mk3.
 

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the rotors on the mkIII are five bolt, four bolt on the MKII

since the rotors wont fit, i highly doubt youll be able to use the calipers and pads.


transfer the engine across ;)
 

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Plus.....

I believe the rotor/caliper assembly is slightly bigger, in order to take advantage of the bigger room that the MKIII 16" wheels provide. This will be a issue if you are still running the stock 14" wheels on the MKII (ie, they won't fit inside the wheel).
 

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Last time I checked the brake calipers were about the same size and the mounting holes to the spindle lined up, pad area was similar. Calipers should work. I only checked the front though,'cause it wasn't looking like an upgrade with the same sized components. The suspension...totally different animals. MKIII has fairly typical upper and lower arms, the MKIIS links and lower arm are toy-like in comparison.
TEMPEST
 

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Ther are no U.S. market factory parts that fit the mkII to date,except mkII parts.Jim King's BBK is it,and Production of those is limited.
 

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The Mk III Master Cylinder transfers directly. Its lighter and smaller than the mk II's. I'm doing this this weekend and will post up pics about it.
 

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not to frankenstien an old thread but when the supra gets parked i plan on swapping over the entire suspension from the mkiii to the 84, has there been a write-up? a few other questions come to mind and i dont want to start a new thread. so here it is,

the front seems to present the most complecations. mostley in height differances, struts and springs, i plan on tearing everything down soon and matching things up i know there will be some fab work involved i expect the worste. thoughts, tips, ideas previouse walk-throughs, or others who have done it, welcome

Michael
 

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good luck
i thought of doing this
it is not worth it not at all
 

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well i see a few plus sides if i can make it work. 5 lug pattern, more suspension upgrades (tems, ect) easier to find parts to replace without driving 50+ miles north or south. its a preferance thing for me, and i am green with mechanics and self taught, it will expand my knowledge and give me some experience. my dad is a great mechanic, but also a long haul truck driver, away for many months at a time, (almost years in some cases) and being very visual its hard for me to get help from him just talking over the phone and even picture messaging doesnt do it justice. its all very natural and easy in my mind and it runs in the family, so any reason or oppertunity to make something my own, or learn about these ideas that make our cars work and give them personallity is very exiting for me.


blah enough rant more work
 

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my 85 celica will become the dd in about 3 weeks, waiting for funds to fix bhg
 

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I already checked the MK3 front subframe and you'll have to do a lot of cutting of frame rails to make it fit in a MK2. The rails on the MK2 are actually 1.5" wider than those of the MK3 and will interfere with the mounts for the upper control arm. I was going to do this exact same thing but didn't feel like chopping that much out of my car. I am working on the rear though, if I can find an easy way to do it then it'll happen.
 

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I already checked the MK3 front subframe and you'll have to do a lot of cutting of frame rails to make it fit in a MK2. The rails on the MK2 are actually 1.5" wider than those of the MK3 and will interfere with the mounts for the upper control arm. I was going to do this exact same thing but didn't feel like chopping that much out of my car. I am working on the rear though, if I can find an easy way to do it then it'll happen.
This won't be a problem. (the mkiii being wider). This would simply let you run +30 to +40 offset rims w/o a problem!! Gusset the inside of the strut tower with boxes, weld in additional box gussets on the inside of the fender immediately in front of and behidn the strut tower where the upper A-Arms will mount. Either reproduce the upper A-Arm mounts or sawzall/cut them off and clean them up to be welded to a bracket that's sort of L shaped when viewed from the front (for the passenger side). The L shaped bracket would essentially be like a plate or strap of steel that would lie flat on the inside of the fender well on the outer side of the frame rail and would fold UNDER the frame rail.

Additionally hole saw out 3/4" to 1" holes in strategic positions so that not only will the edges of the A-Arm mounting bracket reinforcement plate will be welded to the frame but also the inner portions.

MSPAINT pics to follow shortly to help explain.
 

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Inside bracing.



Sorry it's crude couldn't find pic to work with.

Looking from below, and in front of the passenger side fender well (use your imagination).


I will confess... I have yet to figure out how you adjust camber on a wishbone suspension w/o eccentric lobes (like our rear a arms).
 

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No, you misread me, the MK2 rails are wider than the MK3 subframe. You will have to narrow the frame of your car to make the subframe work. The upper control arms on the MK3 are mounted to the subframe, it's all one unit. If you want to adjust camber without using eccentric lobes you just make tubular control arms with rod ends/jam nuts, like our tie rod ends.
 

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rusty kinda is going off some thing we talked about eariler today.

i was thinking of takin a cut from the parts car i have, and not tring to use the subframe, but tring to incorperate the upper control arm, shock/spring, hubd & brake assembly, and lower balljoint.


i haven't laid the parts out yet and tried it, but i have a genral idea how i will do it. and i will use rusty' bracing idea to good use. being it's going into the drift car that will pretty much become an all out tune-able race car.

i do plan to use the excentric bolts that are on the front end of the mk3. makes no sense to leave those behind.

i also plan to take the subframe & floor out of the mk3 to accomplish installing the 8" irs into the mkII 7.5" irs. i belive their is a huge difference in strength.


michael pm if your interested in hearing what i have to say cause where rollin on the same pages. :d
 

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No, you misread me, the MK2 rails are wider than the MK3 subframe. You will have to narrow the frame of your car to make the subframe work. The upper control arms on the MK3 are mounted to the subframe, it's all one unit. If you want to adjust camber without using eccentric lobes you just make tubular control arms with rod ends/jam nuts, like our tie rod ends.
I'm not going to sit here and argue with you about which way creates more positive offset. Suffice to say you can google it but it goes from 0 @ the center of the wheel, towards the inside of the rim is NEGATIVE, and towards the outside of the rim is POSITIVE. That being said if the MKII is WIDER than the MKIII, this wouldn STILL Enable us to go from a +8 rim, to somwhere around a +38 to +45 ballpark.

Going to such a high offset would still put the contact patch of the wheel in the same ballpark as the old wheel.
 

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rusty kinda is going off some thing we talked about eariler today.

i was thinking of takin a cut from the parts car i have, and not tring to use the subframe, but tring to incorperate the upper control arm, shock/spring, hubd & brake assembly, and lower balljoint.


i haven't laid the parts out yet and tried it, but i have a genral idea how i will do it. and i will use rusty' bracing idea to good use. being it's going into the drift car that will pretty much become an all out tune-able race car.

i do plan to use the excentric bolts that are on the front end of the mk3. makes no sense to leave those behind.

i also plan to take the subframe & floor out of the mk3 to accomplish installing the 8" irs into the mkII 7.5" irs. i belive their is a huge difference in strength.


michael pm if your interested in hearing what i have to say cause where rollin on the same pages. :d

Dude, you totally have to do a write-up of this! :naughty:
 

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I'm not arguing that at all, I know how offset works. I was just saying that the FRAME of the MK2 is wider than the FRAME of the MK3, not the hubs or wheel mounting surfaces. I didn't realize that you'd cut off the mounts for the upper control arms and were making your own in the frame rails. I see what you're doing now and applaud you for it.

Although wouldn't it be easier to keep the stock mounts on the subframe and notch/reinforce our frame rails? At least then you wouldn't have to worry about changing the geometry of the suspension if you got your mounts in the wrong place. I'm sure some 1/8" plate (maybe 3/16th) would be strong enough, that's what the mini truck guys use to notch their frames. That way if you ever had a problem and needed to get a new subframe you could just bolt a new one up with no mods. Just a thought.

Darin

I'm not going to sit here and argue with you about which way creates more positive offset. Suffice to say you can google it but it goes from 0 @ the center of the wheel, towards the inside of the rim is NEGATIVE, and towards the outside of the rim is POSITIVE. That being said if the MKII is WIDER than the MKIII, this wouldn STILL Enable us to go from a +8 rim, to somwhere around a +38 to +45 ballpark.

Going to such a high offset would still put the contact patch of the wheel in the same ballpark as the old wheel.
 
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