Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

1 - 20 of 202 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, after 11 years of fairly serious autocrossing in my '84 Supra, it's come time to retire the 5mge and look for a new powerplant, and thus a new autox class. D-Street Prepared has been tremendous fun, great people and competition, but after chasing higher hp cars for years, the E46 BMW came into the class and has developed into a insurmountable foe. I always felt we had a chance against the E36 BMW cars, but the E46 just has too much power, suspension, options in gearing, all the good stuff. So after developing my car over 10 yrs, going to better suspension bits, custom exhaust, standalone SDS, triple ITB setup, bits of aero, then spinning a rod bearing in 2010, a desperate engine rebuild, then several blown headgaskets, a mostly lost 2010 autox season, a brief 2011 autox season, I decided to go to the "dark side" , that being forced induction, turbo, 1jz land. I've read soooo much on this forum, and several others, before and after buying a 1jz motor/r154 tranny. Not only to keep track of my info, fitments, sizes of parts, I thought it would be good to start a thread,, and keep updating it as I work on each part of the 1jz development/install/tuning. I purchased the motor/tranny and a bunch of other parts from Driftmotion. Aaron is a great resource, and pretty decent fellow. I prefer to get as much as possible from one source, but I realize that its not always possible. Still, DM will have ALMOST everything you could possibly need for a 1jz install.

My Supra when it was still running:


The 5mge motor, with my sorta custom modified OBX header, Extrudabody ITBs, SDS standalone, RC 210cc injectors, going into a titanium 3" exhaust. Great motor, will miss it!


The future:


Before I pull the 5mge out, I wanted to prep the 1jz as much as possible. I started by replacing the hydrofan with a 2jzgte water pump, front seal, rear seal, timing belt. Won't need a/c so that will be removed, and the correct shorter aux belt will be fitted (all parts from DM). My plan is to go single turbo, get good throttle response for autox by staying fairly small on turbo size,
and use a twin scroll, or also called a T4 divided manifold. The turbo initially to be installed came off our Subaru STI when it went larger on turbo size, so the Supra gets the Garrett GT3076R.
Definitely not the biggest nor the smallest I could have used, hopefully a good compromise. I want to rev to 8k rpm, and have useable power as low as 3k rpm. Hp/tq goals probably around 400hp/400tq. Maybe a bit optimistic initially, but we plan to go E85 after the motor is running, and those power goals, especially the torque should be within reach.

Working on the exhaust side of the 1jz first, removed the stock twin turbos, intake piping, here is the before:


Here is the OBX T4 divided manifold loosely fitted to the exhaust studs. Several things became apparent, and took some time. Cheap 1jz manifolds (mostly ebay stuff) don't always fit perfect, and have been know to crack under the stress of supporting the turbo, heat, vibration. The OBX header fit the studs fine, the holes drilled in the mounting flange were ok. Most of the welding on the OBX was pretty good, I cleaned up some spots on the inside of the head with a dremel, but it wasn't bad. Some of the bottom exhaust studs were too long and hit the piping of the header, so I fitted shorter studs on the lower half of cylinders 3,4,5,6. Factory studs were about 52mm long, I used 42mm studs. Thread/pitch for these studs are m10x1.25



The turbo mounting flange on the OBX has 4 threaded holes. I installed 4 studs size M10x1.5 40mm. Will probably use flange nuts to tighten down the turbo. I prefer studs and nuts rather than bolts if possible.

I wanted to install some bracing to the manifold, hopefully to avoid future cracking. So my little welder and I got to work. 2 rods from the manifold mounting flange to the base of the turbo mount, and I utilized one of the factory lower manifold braces, welded a bolt onto one of the pipes, and the brace will go from the block (at engine mount, also a DM product), to the pipe. Hope these 2 pics come out clear.



Next is making up the oil feed line, oil drain line, and water lines into and out of the turbo. The 1jz had stock 2 oil outlets on the block (M12x1.25), one gets pluged, I'll put an adapter onto the other with a -4AN fitting going to the turbo. Water lines likely will be just 3/8" hose coming off one of the nipples at the upper water pump outlet, and returning to a nipple in the lower water pump area. Nothing too fancy. The turbo water inlet/outlet will need a M14x1.5 fitting to 3/8" barb.

Here's how the turbo will look on the manifold:


Once done with the exhaust side, I will start working on the intake side of the motor. I have 680cc injectors with a top feed fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, and lots of factory hoses to figure out. Later will try to understand the AEM standalone from Driftmotion (DM).

11-16-11
Had a chance to play with the motor a bit. Installed a -10AN fitting at the oil pan, converting from the factory twin tube drain (2 turbos) to a single drain. I'll get a -10AN oil drain fitting for the bottom of the turbo, run a SS braided line.


Got the Fluidampr crank pulley (from DM, just like the oil drain flange above pic too), used the often suggested method of vise gripping an old access belt around a couple pulleys, and beating on the crank nut with my impact gun. 800 ft/lbs gets most nuts loose, just wasn't sure the crank would hold in place. All worked well though!




Stacking the stock 1jz and Fluidampr pulley on top of each other, noted that dimensions are same, the Fluidampr is heavier at 9.5lbs vs the stocker at 8.5lbs. Fluidampr was a very snug fit, had to use the bolt to pull the pulley in, being careful not to damage the keyway, and using some anti-seize of the snout too. The timing marks on the Fluidampr are I believe at 2 degree spacing. So it looked like the line 8 degrees from the first line, corresponds to the stock pulley's TDC marking. Good to know when assemblying motors.



Torqued the crank nut, I guess its really a bolt, to 260 ft/lbs, per the Fluidampr guide. Held the pulley in place again with the visegrips, used my 250 ft/lb torque wrench, then hit it a few times with my impact gun. Called it good.

Till later....

12-27-11 Still moving slowly on this project. Holidays, work, weather, age, but getting some stuff done.
Pulled the head off my 5mge, looks good. Hope to find a good home for it. Very low mileage and got some nice performance mods. Maybe will pull the 5mge block tomorrow. Will see.
Here's a few pics of the sway bar assembly, taken off the car in one unit, including the strut rods, brackets. Gives more room for engine fiddling. The other pic shows how much more room there is with the swaybar stuff gone.



Then I got into the intake side of the 1JZ. Oh boy, lots of wires, kinda tight on room too. Pulled off the intake, stock fuel rail, clean things up a bit, nothing fancy. Installed the DM top feed fuel rail, 680cc injectors. The engine harness is pretty massive. Lots of the connectors are brittle, and broke the clips when removing them. The new injectors require different connectors, and DM supplied them with pigtails, so I had to cut out the stock injector connectors, solder and heat shrink the new connectors in. Made a neat little tool out of a drain cap to hold the wire in place while I did the soldering.




I removed the stock oil filter assembly, with the stock oil cooler system. My plan is to use a external oil cooler, and also plumb in an accusump. So I fitted a sandwich adapter from Canton Products to run SS lines to the cooler and accusump. Learning alot about -AN fittings, braided lines. Not going for the bling (although its all good), I like the durability of the SS lines.


Wish I could have more to share, but not far from test fitting the 1JZ into the Supra, I hope :)

Happy New Year Everyone!

1-2-2012 Ok, got some stuff done. Finished pulling my 5mge out, removed the W58 tranny, rear diff, driveshaft. Bit of work! Plan is to mount the R154 onto the 1jz, and test fit the motor and tranny to the car, install my new diff (1.5 way Kaaz), take a measurement for driveshaft length and order the 1 piece alum unit from Aaron at Driftmotion.

I have to say the hammering of the tunnel was exhausting! Then used the factory scissor jack to push out the tunnel (mostly on the passenger side, just forward of the shifter opening), then a small hydraulic floor jack. This was pretty hard, but definitely achieved some clearance, and need for Advil :)



So we bolted up the tranny to the 1jz (no flywheel/clutch yet, still needs rear main seal replaced...again) for the exciting test fit. It was really hard getting the trany/eng angled steep enough to fit into the engine bay. Besides thinking the engine hoist would tip over (with tranny that thing looked soooo unbalanced), but fortunately didn't, the engine oil pan barely cleared the radiator support while pulling the rear of the tranny downward into the tunnel. The brake lines run along the driverside tunnel (with fuel lines), and also above the to edge of tunnel. Tricky not bouncing the tranny off those.



Finally it slid into place! The DM mounts look like they would work, but I might try to shift the motor more rearward. Tranny seems ok for tunnel clearances, and the speedo cable seems like it will reach the R154 ok. Didn't get the tranny mount on yet, another day. Tranny is supported with a jack for now. The shifter seems to line up well with the opening in the tunnel. The space between the radiator and motor seems tight, has me a bit concerned. Any slotting of motor/tranny mounts to move drivetrain rearward even 1/2" might be useful. I have those nice twin elect fans from Phil, fairly thin overall, so hoping to get them to fit. You can see in this last pic, we jacked up the rear of the car a bunch to get the entry angle of the motor/tranny better. Couldn't do it without! Overall, excited the motor/tranny fits, is currently in the car, not so excited knowing we will be pulling it back out to finish the motor, clutch, seals, then the fun of install...again :)




Getting there!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,198 Posts
Don L,

So you are not planning to use the SDS on the 1JZ motor? I am currently running a NA 2JZ, but I simply swapped the SDS over form the 5MGE... I will need to change some parameters, but worth the time! The SDS has successfully been run on more turbo vehicles than NA vehicles that I have seen...

Regards,

Carlos
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi Carlos, love your build! I would have loved to use the SDS system again, its a great system , and I became very comfortable tuning it myself. It really was easy. With this 1jzgte motor, I pretty much got convinced that I would need a tuner to get it right, and most tuners can work with the AEM unit. Driftmotion sells a AEM that has a adapter harness supposedly makes it fairly easy to plug into the 1jz harness, and with a few other little wiring issues, should run. I had a leap of faith on this one. Yeah, can't wait to see how "easy" that wiring is.

Don L.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,005 Posts
Hi Carlos, love your build! I would have loved to use the SDS system again, its a great system , and I became very comfortable tuning it myself. It really was easy. With this 1jzgte motor, I pretty much got convinced that I would need a tuner to get it right, and most tuners can work with the AEM unit. Driftmotion sells a AEM that has a adapter harness supposedly makes it fairly easy to plug into the 1jz harness, and with a few other little wiring issues, should run. I had a leap of faith on this one. Yeah, can't wait to see how "easy" that wiring is.

Don L.
you ARE the tuner don. could have run the sds system. it isnt very hard to tune a turbo motor. i did it myself with my 7mgte and megasquirt 2. honestly, i think he said it to make more money. however the aem likely has more options and will prolly work out pretty well for you. be aware though the the version 1 aems have issues with the injector drivers from what people on supraforums have experienced.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yup, some of this electrical stuff I'm treading on new ground, at least for me. Haven't read anything on others running a AEM standalone on a 1jz Mk2 Supra. The unit I got from DM is a Series 2, model is a 6050 (orig for a Honda, that DM modified). The SDS would have been easy, I got pretty good at it, never paid anyone to tune it. The AEM should not only have more features, but I kinda like the idea of plugging into the factory sensors, assuming the DM adapter harness does the job. Hopefully it works out!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,344 Posts
Subscribed. Damn it Don, now I really won't stand a chance when we finally get to autox at Packwood :p. I guess I better get on to the next stage of my engine build to keep up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,005 Posts
why did he use one for a honda instead of a 2jz? id think the 2jzgte model would be easier to adapt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,476 Posts
Don, your car is one of the most intense cars on here and now, well, damn, what can I say. Looks like an awesome build can't wait for the next installment. Question, what do say to those that say the 2J makes more torque than a 1J? Wouldn't it be better for autoXing? The 1J revs for sure and I am just curious.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Don, your car is one of the most intense cars on here and now, well, damn, what can I say. Looks like an awesome build can't wait for the next installment. Question, what do say to those that say the 2J makes more torque than a 1J? Wouldn't it be better for autoXing? The 1J revs for sure and I am just curious.
I'd say to them they are absolutely right! Remember, this is a autox specific car, being built for the Street Mod class. A 2.5 liter turbo motor has a lower minum wt in class than a 3.0 liter. Weight is everything to me. You can only make use of so much power. The 2jzgte is a great motor, but taller and heavier. I like the lower center of gravity of the 1jz, and a useable powerband of 3000 to 8000 rpm will suit my gearing perfectly. Car should hit the 2580 lb min wt of the class.

Don
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
why did he use one for a honda instead of a 2jz? id think the 2jzgte model would be easier to adapt.
I have no clue. Maybe the honda units are cheaper and easy to adapt? Despite all the physical mods/fabrication to adapt this motor, I still believe the electronics will be my biggest challenge :)

Don L.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,476 Posts
AAHHhhhh sounds good to me, like I said can't wait to see as this build progresses.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
Looks like it's coming along nicely.

I love the mods you've done to the exhaust manifold already. Way to think ahead and spot the weaknesses of these "upside down" designs. The torque flex of the engine, with the weight of the turbo makes for a pretty good moment flex of those pipe welds. Those flange supports are a genius way to provide some good rigidity. Basically turns your exhaust system into the engine torque dampener. Might want to consider an additional bolt on unit anyway, to subdue any excessive topside movement.. Something I've been wanting to do myself.

The single turbo upgrade is still pretty far down my list. No dout, I'll be watching your progress and taking notes.

I guess I'm going to have to step up my game a bit for a Packwood meet next year. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,198 Posts
Don L,

Out of curiosity, what electronic adaptation are you concerned about? Using the SDS, I used whichever sensors/switches I chose to use! The only thing I have left over from the original electronics is the Knock sensor...

As for turbo timers, extra injectors, boost controllers, etc, the SDS takes care of all that from what I understand... Although I am using the GM Coil Packs, I suspect the Toyota COP units would not be compatible... At any rate, I was just curious!

Regards,

Carlos
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Sam: I definitely wanted to do something to strengthen the exhaust manifold. The ebay manifolds work, but certainly some reports of cracking, so do what I can. Don't intend for my exhaust manifold to act as a torque dampener, actually looking to have a downpipe with a flex coupler installed. I will have to check into additional torque suppression devices too, space permitting! With your mad fab skills, I have no doubt you will come up with some great stuff. I'm just a hack with a little welder and angle grinder :)

Carlos: I'm guilty of taking the "easy" approach with the standalone for the 1jz. At least hoping it is easy. The SDS could work, but I was captivated with the allure of plug in adapter harness, use of stock harness and factory sensors. I received the stock ecu for the 1jz, and that probably would be most simple, but with my plans for E85, bigger turbo, higher rpms, it seemed the AEM had more features, if works as claimed. The 5mge was pretty easy to wire up the SDS, the 1jz seems to have more complexity, but I suppose once I remove the unneccesary stuff, its pretty basic too. Still, I have a tuner source that likely will be dyno tuning the car once it comes alive. He would be comfortable with the AEM of course. I will be anxious to read more of other SDS installs, and yours in particular. You've been a great info resource!

Don L.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
a few updates to the thread. my plan to to keep adding on to the bottom of the original post, keeping it all in one posting. Will note when updates occur :)

Thanks for looking, and hopefully this will help keep my thoughts and info orderly!

Don L.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,165 Posts
Don I'd recommend you return the Fluidampr and go with the ATI pulley instead. Its much smaller than stock and will let you keep the motor lower in the chassis. The larger diameter portion of the stock pulley lines up with the Mk2 sway bar.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Hi Aaron, so you are saying the stock 1jz pulley interferes with the stock Mk2 sway bar? Is this a 2jzgte concern? I have a custom front sway bar with a bend in the middle anyway, not too concerned about interference compared to a stock 1jz, but of course haven't dropped the motor in yet for a test fit. I have read good things on the ATI unit too, smaller diameter. Not sure on the weight. Didn't like that the Fluidampr was slightly heavier than the stocker, but if it protects the motor better, I was willing to compromise. Thanks for the info!

Don L.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,165 Posts
Both JZ pullies are the same IIRC. My car has the Addco, but with the ATI I was able to get the bottom of the oil pan flush with the bottom of the crossmember and fit the LJM bar across. To get it like that with a 2JZ the pulley section with the belt is right over the sway bar. The 1JZ is a little more forgiving since its about an inch shorter you could angle the engine up, but I sure you'd rather keep the CG down.
 
1 - 20 of 202 Posts
Top