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Discussion Starter #181
Just noticed in plugging one of the vacuum ports of the 1jz intake manifold, it is a approximately 1/8 NPT, but very tapered thread and a bit finer. Matches one of my taps labeled 1/8-28 pipe. Researching further it appears Toyota still used (at least in some locations) the 1/8-28 BSPT. I believe that is what I am trying to plug. My 1/8 NPT plugs would not even get started in the thread, so found a plug in the 1/8 BSPT from Grainger, should be here in a few days. Hope it fits.
 

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Whistles
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I've had all of the JZ engines, and haven't found a single NPT yet.

Are they on other Toyota engines?
 

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Discussion Starter #183
I've had all of the JZ engines, and haven't found a single NPT yet.

Are they on other Toyota engines?
Now you have me wondering too. I know I put one plug on the intake manifold for my current 1jz, and don't recall it being special. I kind of recall the old 5mge having threaded openings around the thermostat area and I kinda recall putting in a 1/8 or 3/8 NPT temp sensor, but its been a while. Definitely don't recall ever sourcing a BSPT pipe thread insert fitting though. Now I have to go check it out! I think my 1/8 BSPT plugs arrive in todays mail, so hope I can verify. Crazy stuff!

So, what thread size and pitch are you using for your engines? BSPT is not the easiest thread pitch to source!
 

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Many Toyota engines use BSPT plugs and fittings in certain areas - especially a big pain if someone tries to ram a NPT fitting in and then you have a problematic leak on your hands.
 

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Whistles
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I've had to use BSPT on the oil sensor. The one supplied with the standalone was 1/8 NPT, so I ordered an adapter.

The intake manifold on the 1JZ is a BSPT, too. :::hides:::

Even on Supraforums in a Pro-EFI install thread, somebody put a 1/8 NPT sensor in the intake manifold (shown below). It's doable, but not correct.

As Funkycheeze has said, it will cause a leak sometimes. If you used thread sealer you could get lucky.



Note you may have to run a 1/8" NPT tap into the intake manifold as I believe the stock threads are slightly different. Also use some teflon tape or thread sealer on these threads.
https://www.diyauto.com/manufacturers/toyota/generations/supra-a80/diys/proefi-install-guide-by-josh-s



I used this one for the oil pressure sensor. It's the only BSPT I have on the engine. I couldn't find it anywhere cheaper.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-8-npt-female-to-18-bspt-male-adapter.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #186
The 1/8 BSPT plug from Grainger worked fine for my intake manifold. I guess its my first BSPT threaded part on this 1JZ. I ran water temp sensors off the stock water pump area, but used M16x15. to 1/8 npt adapters, and M12 x1.5 to 1/8 npt adapters, to mount my standalone and water temp gauge sensors.

Yeah, better to get the correct fit, not too comfortable with forcing a 1/8 npt fitting into the BSPT port.

Learned a lot this week about the different thread styles. Too bad by next year I will probably not remember a dang thing :)

Don
 

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Don, that's called Curly syndrome, as in Curly from The Three Stooges. For years I've had the start up sound on my Macs Curly saying, "I'm trying to think, but nothing's happening!" Makes me laugh every time. Hopefully, like me, it won't take long for you to remember things that you used to know. But I can tell you that in my case, once in a great while, I have to go all the way through something to the end before I figure out that I totally forgot. It pisses me off that not one thing along the way to rediscovering whatever it is reminded me that I'd been down that road before.
It's why I now PAINT "check me first" on my radiator cap. God damn Sharpies aren't at all permanent like they claim.
 

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Discussion Starter #188
hahaha :) Yup, that's how I roll these days. Family always jokes about me having too many spare parts, because I forget I already have one, so buy another. I sold an old BMW sedan, beater for work, later realized I stock piled 2 extra water pumps for it. Just hope to enjoy the cars a bit before I end up sitting in a chair watching daytime tv, eating applesauce.
 

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I've thought that when my squash softens up enough that I need to be strapped into my seat, I won't care if the movie on the windshield is a short endless loop, because I won't notice that I've been there, done that, been there, done that, been there, done that..... And will very likely fall asleep at the wheel.... before I might have noticed anyway.
A few years ago at the vintage races at Laguna Seca, there were old guys wandering around the pits in drivers suits that looked like somebody had accidentally left a door open at the old folks home and there were some also accidental escapes. About an hour later, the CanAm cars took to the track and just about every one was being driven by the same guys that drove them back in the 60's and early 70's. Take 2: Old guy that was wandering aimlessly just an hour earlier. Everyone thought that he'd been rounded up and taken back. NOT! He started from the rear and finished an absolutely brilliant second! Another lap and he might have won, but probably not. Sure, they never push anything this valuable to 10/10th's. But they don't baby them either. These cars came very close to 1 HP/pound. Nothing else has ever even come close, not even F1. For example, the Porsche 917/30. it weighed about 1700 pounds. And, it had 1600 HP. Yeah they didn't know this for sure back then. But that was because when they tested it on their dyno, it caught fire and the whole facility burned to the ground. A replacement that could handle the power that motor could deliver took over 3 years to build and by then the series was over.
So we probably shouldn't write ourselves off just yet simply because we're becoming old guys as well. I've seen Juan Manuel Fangio at 90 years old wheel one of his F! cars like he did 60 years earlier. Sterling Moss seriously sideways and in control at 88. And then there's Herchel McGriff. He won his first NASCAR race in 1954. And still takes to the track occasionally and does very well. A couple of years ago in his very late 80's, he lapped his son and came in 5th in a K&N West race. James Hylton qualified for Daytona a few years ago at 72. Paul Newman won the 24 hours of Daytona at age 70. And even more impressive is that he won the very last Trans Am race he entered only a couple of months before he passed away at age 83, in car #83. And he thoroughly thrashed all the young guys. Every one of them was incredibly happy for him and couldn't have been more proud. The only other time I can recall seeing anything like this was when Dale Earnhardt won the Daytona 500 in 98 and every member of every team lined up to congratulate him. The rarest thing in racing is everyone being happy someone else won. It's only happened a few times in my lifetime!
And has anyone seen Mario take anyone for a ride in the tandem Indy car ahead of the actual race cars? Yeah, it might have a bit of a power advantage on current cars, but at 78, he so easily pulls away from them that it looks like anybody could do it. Obviously that's not even close to reality. So it's not necessarily all bad news for us old fucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
+1 on the motivational speech :thumbsup:

Thank you for the pep talk! Of course I had 2 naps before I finished the post....haha, jk !

Yeah, I got a few years left. Hope to enjoy some of the hobbies, a bit more than while I was working. Let's see how long this ride lasts....
 

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Circling back to this bspt vs npt thing, the difference is 27 threads per inch and 28. Most Japanese manufacturers use BSPT exclusively, and I've personally seen an NPT fitting jammed into the BSPT port with some thread tape without subsequent issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
It's a really good reminder to owners of the difference. Fortunately, with some searching on Google, there are some suppliers of BSPT fittings so we can properly complete connections. These engines have both metric fittings and BSPT, that's the bottom line. A good tap/die set and thread pitch gauge helps.
 

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All of the pressed pipe nipples I am removing from my 2jzgte i am tapping with npt for pipe plugs, but the oil sender, etc... that is already bsp, I have to run an adapter. The sending unit for the Autometer oil pressure gauge is huge, so have to run a hose anyway. a 1/8bsp to 3an adapter is needed and then a custom ss line to run to the sender which I will mount on the motor mount bracket. Got lucky awhile back at a swap meet. Got a MAC tools metric tap and die set, and SAE tap and die set for $100 total. MSRP is near $400 each. Couldnt pass them up!
 

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Discussion Starter #195
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Toyota/Celica/A1_Cardone/Axle_Assembly/1984/Supra/6_Cyl_2-dot-8L/A1605170.html

Just ordered an extra axle (remanuf) for the Supra. 15% off till tonight, ends up about $51 plus core (which I am usually too lazy to send back, but I might this time). Core is about $16

I have broken old axles before (the CV joint area) so I have replaced both rear axles already with remanuf units, seems to be doing ok, and feels quieter. Figured a good idea to have a spare unit around. FYI for those pushing higher HP!

Don

edit: having trouble completing my order online, not sure why. Hope they are not out of stock. Will keep trying.
 

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I just ordered one of those off Rockauto for ~$75 shipped recently. I'm guessing they just rebuild the old ones with new boots and grease. The fact there was a frowny face drawn on one axle hasn't made be feel easy about it. I rebuilt both of mine, but for some reason one of the joints only bends one way and not the other on one axle. Its not terribly difficult to rebuild the stockers just messy.
 

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Discussion Starter #197
I assume the balls and cages are inspected and in decent shape on the rebuilds. Mine apparently get kinda abused. Anyway, with the discount I was looking at about $67 shipped with the core already included, but the online ordering was not cooperating so I'm just going to give up for now. Too frustrating trying to get the order completed. If I get the urge will shop around when I get some time. Don't need the axle right now, have 2 used ones I can swap in if emergency. Just wanted to have a fresh unit for travel. Bought from Rockauto before too, seems like a competent source.
 

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In my experience, OEM is far superior to a "fresh" unit, even if it is old. The new aftermarket ones (non-rebuilt) especially don't last for shit. Rebuilt ones retain a lot of the OE components, but are still hit or miss from what I've seen. I suspect that the material quality for replacement parts is far below the original Toyota stuff.

I imagine that for rebuild they would mill out the channels and use oversize balls and cages to get the tolerances back into spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
Just a quick post to keep this thread alive. For years I had slight oil leakage around my rear diff, usually from the top breather valve. Not sure if others have this issue, but I imagine at higher speeds this could affect everyone. I bought a Toyota breather nipple, part# TY90404-51026, screwed into top of diff housing, attached a section of fuel line (I think 3/8"), with a new breather cap attached top of fuel line. Hose is zip tied upright. The section of hose still allows pressure release, but also allows more room for oil to spew upward then back down, without leaking all over the underside/diff. Been working well.

diff breather line by toy4speed, on Flickr
 

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Great idea! I used to have this problem all the time with the OEM diff whenever I engaged in any "spirited" driving in the mountains - the oil got hot and started leaking out the breather. I recall on one occasion some of the oil got on the hot exhaust, and I had a minor panic attack when I saw all the smoke coming out the back of my car! :eek:

My oil leak problem pretty much went away when I switched to TrueTrac, but it's a good thing to keep in mind just in case it comes back.
 
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