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The best way to do this is probably just a stock hood, no holes, or w/ w/out windshield wiper hole, and leave it up to the customer to apply the holes if they want the spoiler or sunshade. That's gonna be the easiest way for them to produce it. All these different wants/needs and requests will just make it a lot more difficult to get rolling and produced.
 
+1 to this
+2. After talking with Don, he is just waiting on the seals to ensure this can be performed easily and he will let us add whatever wing, louvers, spoilers we want. I am hopeful that lexan can be had cheaply, however.

Purchased two hoods.....ready for two hatches!
 
To clarify, the option for a sunshade request it's to have the 85 sunshade made in CF to go along with the hatch. It would look silly to mount a 28 year old faded sunshade onto a CF hatch.

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To clarify, the option for a sunshade request it's to have the 85 sunshade made in CF to go along with the hatch. It would look silly to mount a 28 year old faded sunshade onto a CF hatch.

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Agree on this. No way I'd mount an 85 spoiler onto a carbon fiber hatch. Better off it being made with the hatch. All carbon fiber is the way to go.
 
Eh? I would mount the '85 spoiler to it. I don't care. I don't see what the issue is, lol. It's fiberglass anyway. And if you're worried about it matching, you can get it wrapped. You can also paint it black. Black goes with everything, especially the black moldings and bumper. Well that's my opinion anyway :p
 
Eh? I would mount the '85 spoiler to it. I don't care. I don't see what the issue is, lol. It's fiberglass anyway. And if you're worried about it matching, you can get it wrapped. You can also paint it black. Black goes with everything, especially the black moldings and bumper. Well that's my opinion anyway :p
+1. The basic hatch is all I need. I don't even really need a lexan window, if I'm honest.
 
+1. The basic hatch is all I need. I don't even really need a lexan window, if I'm honest.
this main appeal for me is no chance of rust. considering you're going to pay 200-$500 for a perfect hatch anyways once you ship it, it makes this a viable option.

I agree with Tanya an zelephant. paying hundreds to make a light part weigh almost the same is an option only few would take. I think black or even a wrap would look good!

Unless you race competitivley the weight of the glass is a minor issue and I think anybody that has a street car you are going to be very disappointed with the vibration and wind noise you will hear through lexan. very few have a dedicated track car and of those few I don't think very many would be winning championships if they lost 30 more lbs off the car. For the group that drives street cars on the track a handful of times in a year I think you'll regret it... but that's my opinon.

I'm interested, I say just make them stock. If you want holes for whatever they are easy enough to drill.
an included paper template to drill either 84 or 85 sunshade holes into the hatch would be a very nice touch!
 
why arnt these going to be made in fg? i would prefere that. would cut the cost quite a bit. i plan to paint mine anyway. and for the price, it should include the lexan rear window. im fine with no spoiler holes. i can mark and drill them myself after it comes in. likely wont bother with the rear wiper as hopefully ill never drive the car in the rain anyway. havent decided if i want to leave it lockless or not.

so a fg hatch with lexan window and no holes for spoilers, wiper, lock, etc... though an indentation on the inside for where the lock should go would be nice.
 
To all those who are requesting a Lexan window. First off, I’m not associated with this group buy nor the production, I’m a longtime member and have significant, professional experience with plastics. The Lexan window will NOT be cheap. Polycarbonate - Lexan is a specific manufacturer - is a wonderfully strong product. It can withstand a world of abuse and not break or shatter. Plexiglas is nice but brittle. Knock it too hard and it will shatter. That’s the huge advantage of polycarbonate/Lexan and why it’s used in motorsports. However, they use those tear off films for a reason. As durable as polycarbonate may be it scratches like a bitchy cat. Even microfiber towels will leave lite, surface scratch marks. Don’t even think about using paper towels or cotton.

Additionally, all sheet stock plastic is manufactured in a standard 4’x8’ sheet. That’s typical. 5x10 sheets are available but they are much more expensive due to their unique size. A 4x8 of 1/8” polycarbonate will run approximately $110. That 1/8” sheet will be flopping in the wind if mounted in the hatch. A 4x8 sheet of 3/16” polycarbonate will run approximately $160. I’d believe there would still be a huge amount of flex happening even with the 3/16” poly. More speed and more vacuum will be pushing onto the polycarbonate. I think 3/16” polycarbonate would be a minimum to reduce the movement, 1/4” would be more ideal.

Those costs above are for a 4’x8’ sheet, 48 inches x 96 inches. However, a rear hatch window cannot be cut from those sizes. Without specifically measuring, a 5’x10’ sheet will be necessary. This will increase the cost significantly due to the larger, less common size. So what does all this mean? I’d put an estimate around $300 just for the polycarbonate/Lexan window.

I do everything except windows.
Scott
 
well the main concern ive heard from people attempting this is that they dont know if it can support the glass window. if it can, great, then the next problem is our old window seals. this is gonna be tricky, but i want one sooooooooo bad. my "rust free" hatch on my 84 now has signs of cancer and im hoping i caught it before it became terminal, but i still want a fg hatch to prevent this from happeneing again.
 
Great info Scott. I would hope any hatch made could support a normal glass window, as losing weight in the rear never concerned me (seems counter-productive).

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well the main concern ive heard from people attempting this is that they dont know if it can support the glass window. if it can, great, then the next problem is our old window seals. this is gonna be tricky, but i want one sooooooooo bad. my "rust free" hatch on my 84 now has signs of cancer and im hoping i caught it before it became terminal, but i still want a fg hatch to prevent this from happeneing again.
http://www.visracing.com/newcatalog/Search-Results?keywords=carbon+fiber+hatch

Our cars are unique in that the rear glass is flat. That's why a lexan window is even an option. Most cars don't have that luxury; they have no choice but to use the factory glass. Nevertheless, carbon hatches are available for these cars; there doesn't seem to be any worry about these hatches being able to support real glass. There's no reason that I can see a Mk.II hatch would be an exception to this trend.

Just a basic CF hatch. No holes, no lexan. That's all I ask.
 
Complete hatch assemblies are very heavy, till you strip it down to just the hatch metal. Most of the weight comes from the glass, and some more from wiper motor, wings etc. If the manufacturer will do it in FG, might as well, the weight difference will be pretty neglible, though the carbon might be a little stiffer. Which is really the big concern. You're going to want to be able to use some kind of hatch struts. I used this guy for the CFX hood gb back in the early 2000s, seems he's still in business...
http://www.strutwise.com/

He can revalve a set of struts to match the weight of the lighter hatch.

As for the window, you might be able to just bond the oem glass in with windshield urethane. It may end up being easier to remove the glass if you ever need to by cutting it out then attempting to use the oem hatch seal on a fg\or carbon frame. That puts alot of stress on the frame, I'm sure it would break that way.
 
Living in the rust belt, my main motivation for a hatch isn't to lighten the load but to get more rust-free body parts. Weight reduction is an added benefit that's nice to have.
 
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