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Door locks with a mind of their own

Re: continuous locking and unlocking of door locks

To follow up on my previous message, I was able to access the relay on my 1983 Supra by only removing a plastic cover panel below the steering wheel. The relay was mounted just to the left of the steering wheel. (I orginally thought that I may have to remove the dash but this wasn't necessary. All in all it wasn't as difficult as I had expected).
This relay appears to be the source of the problem in my case.

Thanks again to the group for the good info on this thread.

Dan.
 

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you sure about that? I just replaced that one and it was not my problem. I do have an 85 though, fairly different lock systems. However that relay was the one clicking on and off constantly, but for me at least it was not the relay at fault. I still suspect the one in the door. I'll try changing it this weekend.
 

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Does anyone have the wire diagram for the alarm system in a 85?
 

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you sure about that? I just replaced that one and it was not my problem. I do have an 85 though, fairly different lock systems. However that relay was the one clicking on and off constantly, but for me at least it was not the relay at fault. I still suspect the one in the door. I'll try changing it this weekend.
mine was doing the same thing and i replaced the door relay first(i have an 84) and it was still happening. the locks would go crazy every now and then. i then replaced the relay under the dash and the whole lock system stopped working.
 

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Door lock control relay located front side of drivers door
toyota part #: 85918-14030
List $212.63 !!!
discontinued :(
Looks like I'll be cracking mine open to see if it can be fixed...
 

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My doors did this when I first bought the car, and after I took the relay out, it stopped. I got a parts car and that relay fialed after about a month. I took the relay box apart and found a bad resistor. I replaced it and haven't had any problems since.
 

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Hi All,

I know this thread is pretty old but if anyone's still subscribed that's familiar with it I could really use some help...

I've got a P-Type '84 so there's no stock TDS (security) afaik.

When I'm not trying to use the locks all is quiet and they behave themselves.

When I turn the key they used to often unlock then re-lock before I can even lift the handle and they still try it most of the time but I found a trick to getting around that issue with the key 99% of the time, although I'd really like to solve it instead...

When I use the door switch they often do that same thing or they bounce erratically or when I'm trying to lock them they won't stay locked, then the switch stops working completely for a minute or two... I suspect a thermal circuit breaker's being tripped from the heavy current draw then resets and goes back to working again when it cools..
Even if I reach up and try to manually unlock the doors they'll re-lock themselves and vice versa and it moves both DS & PS when they start moving.

Also, no matter what combination of key turning I try the passenger lock will almost never unlock along with the driver's side using the driver's side keyhole, but every once in a while it does... Is it a double-turn to trip both locks or is it how far you turn it?

Here's what I've tried and what I've noticed so far...

I unplugged the door control box in the door and to my suprise the door panel switch still operated the locks so is the box inside the door just the key reminder logic? There's no relay in it, just an IC and a bunch of relays/diodes.

I unplugged the door control box above the clutch pedal which is just 2 huge relays inide it and of course the power locks quit working.
Also, that door control box says HARDTOP on it but my car has a factory sunroof. Does it really matter?

My ignition switch often keeps beeping long after I've removed the key so I suspect that the auto key unlock feature is being triggered when they won't stay locked but sometimes even after I remove the key and wiggle the ignition enough to get the beeps to stop they still won't stay locked.

I'm really suspecting a combination of the misbehaving ignition key reminder and whatever lock switches there are inside the door for the key lock/unlock as causing the power locks' flakiness on my car because I find that if I turn the key hard right and hold it 'till I feel the key move a little further as I also hear the clunk of the power locks then they actually stay unlocked and it even occasionally unlocks the passenger door too. If I turn it manually back to center before removing the key (since the key cylinder doesn't spring back anymore) then the door panel lock/unlock switch does seem much less erratic and is actually properly usable most of the time.

I opened up the door control relay box that's inside the door to get a glimpse of the solder joints and components and everything looks good. No burnt resistors, no burnt traces, actually looks damn good for its' age.

I have a hard-copy of the Toyota 1984 CS Service Manual and although it's far better than nothing, it's pretty damn sketchy at best for locating switches, relays, connectors, etc...

If anyone's got a spare control box for an '84 that goes in the door I'd love to try it and I'm totally open to suggestion otherwise...

Thanks in advance!

Thomas
myothersupra
 

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does anybody have any idea as to why my factory car alarm goes off when i open the driver's side door with the key but not the passenger side? otherwise the locks work fine and the alarm will turn off if i use the key in the ignition.
 

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does anybody have any idea as to why my factory car alarm goes off when i open the driver's side door with the key but not the passenger side? otherwise the locks work fine and the alarm will turn off if i use the key in the ignition.
Run a search.... Use "Factory Alarm microswitch" as your keywords. Has been covered before.
 

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I had the same thing went to warm it up in the winter time, unlocked it, started it closed the door (I left it to idle and didn't want to kill myself because there is only a cat and all the exhaust would come right through to me) so I closed to doors and they locked while it was on:mad: had to wait for 2 hours for a tow truck to come unlock it (duh use a coathanger through the passenger window) that was an hour after I spent $600 in parts for it. Thanks for treating me back and taking another $80:duh:
 

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Sorry to hear that. I've stared at the wiring diagram and just don't get what the lock control box in the door is even there for since it only effects locking based on the diagram so it's now unplugged. I only have the one very worn original key for my 84 and I'd hate to have it get locked in the car along with my house key, the keys to the other cars, etc on the same ring so for now I don't have to worry about it at all. I hate that the key won't unlock both doors at all but that function didn't work most of the time anyway, so 'till I find a cure for the flaky box I'll just push the unlock button (that still works fine along with the lock button) once I've opened the drivers' door to let any passengers in. :)
 

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I had a duh moment when reading through this. I now take my key out of the ignition after starting it while I wait for the car to warm up. It's worn down enough to do this.:duh:
Very smart thinking thanks to this thread.
At least untill I get it figured out.
 

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what about if the door unlocks ONLY when you shut the door..

ie) open the door to get out, hit the lock button, doors lock, shut the doors and they are now unlocked...

always stay locked when locked from the outside with a key
never lock or unlock by themselves..

just need some wd possibly?
 

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OK i'm going to go out on a limb and say that I thought you had to lift the handle when closing a locked door to keep them locked...so you couldn't lock the keys in. I haven't thought of that lately since I really don't lock it at all in Kansas City, MO. But when I lived in MI I had an 82 and an 83 that I did lock all the time (lived in Ferndale, MI just north of 8 Mile...yes near M&M!!). I thought it was a cool feature but I am probably wrong and will get flammed but do both doors unlock or just the DS?? have you tried to lift the handle when closing the door and see what happened?? Just a thought...it can't hurt to try.
 

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AFAIK from what you're describing, you do know that Toyota required that the outside door handle be held up after locking the door as you close it for it to remain locked? This is to reduce the risk of accidentally locking the keys in the car. You have to intentionally lock the door then close it with the handle held up to keep it locked.
That "feature" existed as far back as some point in the 1970's on all Toyotas, not just Supras through some point in the 1988 model year when it was discontinued for some reason. The '81 Celica, '80 Supra, all my MkII's, and the three 87 MkIII's I've owned over the years all worked that way and I think my buddy's old '76 Celica did too.

I believe that typically the problem is that they LOCK on their own or "chatter" between lock and unlock randomly, usually settling into the locked position when it stops. Some people have reported the slamming of the door triggering the flaky locks with the box in the door being the problem. In my case the box in the door is responsible for my '84s power door locks problem but I haven't determined why. I suspect that the trigger switches on the key tumblers and in the latch mechanisms and the solenoids themselves may be hung up, worn, or otherwise sending latched signals instead of momentary and making it get confused. My 87 MkIII had a switch on the passenger door key tumbler go bad, fall off, and stay in the lock position and it caused similar results, along with setting off the alarm when I tried to unlock that door with the key and other things like that.
As much as I wish it had one as a deterrant, there's no factory alarm in '84 so fortunately I don't have that headache to fight with on top of the door lock probkems.

Is the handle-up process the source of your not staying locked problem?
I have to remind passengers all the time or just wait for them to close it and hit the lock button and close my door afterwards. They just don't get it but I'm totally used to it myself after 15+ years of having to do it so far...
 

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OK, so heres my story. I have an 85 and would be driving down the street and I would hear a sort of static buzzing sound from under the steering column and my doors would lock. Then about 20 seconds later it would do it again but would unlock then lock??? This would keep up all the way home and after I shut the car off. I obviously thought it was the the relay under the steering column as thats where the buzzing was coming from. So I get another one and replace it and the whole system stops working all together. Keep in mind that in the beginning the auto door lock switch worked but after I swapped out the relay it wouldn't work anymore. Skip ahead about a month and I'm driving home from work and whadya know I hear the buzzing sound again and my doors lock. But the switch still doesn't do anything. So I unplug the relay under the steering column. Yesterday I took off the door liner and pulled out the switch, the relay in the door and the relay under the steering column and cleaned all the connections with electro-contact cleaner and put it all back together and still nothing??? I'm totally at a loss I have no idea what to do, My only other option is to get another relay for the door, but the one I had looked totally fine????? U-Pull-It, here I come!!! :crossjerk
 

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never heard of such a thing.. holding the handle up when shutting the door to keep it locked...weird shit, but i'll test this theory. Thanks
 

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Just raising my flag for the '85 P-type with the possessed door locks.

When I bought the car, I realized that the horn had been disabled and I soon found out why when one day the lights popped up and started flashing. I don't recall what I did to cause this, but I was pretty happy that the horn wasn't blaring also.

Anyway, regarding the locks, I had the car for about a year or two when I went out to warm it up before work one frigid day. Unlocked it, started her up, got out and shut the door to be met with that dreadful "CLICK" of the car locking me out.... with my ONLY key in the ignition. :loser:

My attempt with a coat hanger was a big failure, so I called a tow truck service to come unlock it and it took them TWO HOURS to get my door open. Yes, I was very late to work, thankyouverymuch.

I was vigilant about keeping my key with me after that, or rolling down the window when I had to warm up the car... until one day I went out to my Mom's farm to ride horses. I took the keys out as usual, put them in my jacket pocket and toodled around the farm. When it got too warm for the jacket, I took it off, tossed it into the car and shut the door.

Much later, when I was ready to come home.... I realized where my keys were and, of course, the car was locked. After many gentle attempts to unlock to door like the tow truck guys did, I finally ended up ripping the door handle 3/4 out of the door, wedging my hand into the slot and yanking like hell on the lock bar until it finally popped open.

Hence, I need a new door handle.
 

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does anybody have any idea as to why my factory car alarm goes off when i open the driver's side door with the key but not the passenger side? otherwise the locks work fine and the alarm will turn off if i use the key in the ignition.

Yes,
take off your door panel & on the inside of the door right in line with the door handle about halfway down you'll find a tiny white box looking thing with 2 wires going into it. One of the wires is either broken or hanging by a thread. Your best bet is to try & remove the mechanism & resolder that switch thing or whatever the hell it is (im going off of memory from years ago when I did mine) but thats your problem.

Its a p.i.t.a to try & resolder but other than that you'd have to replace the mechanism itself as an assembly.
 
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