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Discussion Starter #1
not to be a prick or know it all but just saying my opinion and what has worked for me. i picked up 2 tenths at the track on street tires with this susp setup. For the front I swapped on a set of old completely blown junkyard front struts with 4 drilled holes per strut to make sure the strut had no resistance going up or down. i removed my Tokico BLUE's and left my stock springs. By allowing the front of the car to lift up so easily it causes the weight of the supra to load on the back tires thus helping with traction if u can control the weight transfer properly. Now with my soft fron susp my rear end would squat to much (REAR Tokico Blue's and stock springs). When the IRS squats to much ur lose camber thus u launch on the inside edge of ur tire which i really noticed when i looked at my "walking burnout marks." I would only leave a dark 2 to 3inch patch. To fix this i measure on a alingment rack that the IRS can travel 1 3/4 inch with out losing camber. So i modded a set of 4runner bump stops so rear end can only travel about 2 inches then it bottoms out on the stops. Now the whole this in motion work better than i hoped. The front end lifts up at launch causing the rear to squat. Except rather than the it squat 2 far and lose camber it stop on the bump stops. This allows the entire weight transfer to "slam" the tires in the ground but with 0 loss in camber. I know can cut 1.8 and 1.9 60's ft at the track on NORMAL street tires. This is just the setup i found to work best launching MY car on the track and on the street. this is just my opinion... feal free to compliment or criticize
the car rides fine on the street except the front end is a lil sloppy.
THIS IS A DRAG LAUNCH SUSPENSION not road race ect...
 

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Sounds dangerous. I prefer cornering myself, if I wanted to drag race I would have bought a Mustang. WOOOF!!! You asked for it :)
 

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the set-up is dangerous... if you are just running a mild allmotor... you might not have seen how the mk2 can do off the line with all the gobs of tourque you could imagine.

well with the very soft front would give you a nice off the line squat but you suffer high speed stability due to the softness of the front...remember that it is not the 60 you have to deal with also the rest of the 1/4 mile... by having a rubber stopper on your suspension travel would hinder the functionability of the weight transfer by limiting the travel of your squat...

I have not found yet the best solution for a best suspension set-up on my 6MGTE... but I have experience the lack of high speed control with blown front struts and it is not a pretty sight going 80+ mph on the 1/4 mile... you are taking a risk on your set-up... I have been racing for 3 years now and found that to have a RWD make good launch is to have a 50/50 rear and 90/10 front as a basis and trim as needed to you preference... that is having the rear squat and the front to lift up....

50/50 rear makes the car squat while launch and keep it there for better traction while loading up the rear tire.
90/10 front helps it to raise the front while keeping the front go down easy on compression of the shock due to the applied tourque from the launch...

I have been in search for the best aftermarket struts/shocks and went to great deals looking for it and has no luck for it is only few who makes the same specs of suspension travel on our mk2... while autocrossing is different and I only speak my part on Drag racing for it is what I do on my MK2 w/ 6MGTE

It is not fun driving a car with blown shocks or a wrong set of suspension set-up while trying to launch a touque monster of the line and keep it controlled on the duration of the 1/4 mile race and make go straight....

JUST MY 0.02cent opinion
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I understand ur point totally with my setup i cannot corner on the onramps or dart thru traffic. But this system is the only way i have found to get good 60 ft time DRAG RACING wich is driving straight ZERO conering involved. Anyone who does drag racing know that 60ft time is was makes or breaks a good ET, and if u ever go to a street car shootout just about every car there will have super soft if not blown fron shock and they race on skinny's. I now realize that i dont think there is one person on this forum who has a real interest in drag racing a MK2 as i love to do. Which i understand becuase everyone else drives there cars daily on the street. The setup is not for a street car but for a drag race car. I know the setup is not meant for the street or for drifting ect. I apologize for posting this since i guess no one drag races their MK2 on a weekly basis and this setup is not meant for a street car.

BTW 14.02 on streets for under $500
BTW Toyota Certified Tech 3yrs
BTW Master Level Hunter Alingment Certified
BTW I will never drive a FORD
 

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I am very involed in drag racing but my point is that the set-up is dangerous to my liking... I have a very torquey 6MGTE pushing my car to go tailwhip to the right during a hard 3K shot from the hole... I have been going to great lenghts on finding the ultimate set-up on drag racing... I am not that stupid to give that point withour considering that it is for drag racing use... I have a nice 70/30 front and still on the search for the rear... I have tried KYB gas-a-just which is just to stiff for it, while a set of monroe gas-matics and sensa-tracs are still too soft for my liking, the toyota factory shocks is also soft to my interest for it bottoms out like the monroe...

and also the point I am saying is a straight line set-up and not autocross

well it is good to know you are toyota tech and has achieved a low 14 1/4 mile run and that is running NOS and not turbo boost...I am coming from my car being boosted and runnning MT Indy profile S/S street slicks (26") and running low 13's on 12 psi
 

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i was going to stay out of this but i had to throw in my 2 cens. first off hay thats grate your setup works for you but i can tell you with my 84 7mgte in the 12 second in the 1/4 i would be in the wall with your set up. ive had the car get out of shape at over 90 mph --- that shit is scary but i still have a good enough set up that i can stear my car at over 100 mph. i dont think any one is nocking you its just that when you get going faster it makes a big diffrence. but i think i will try out your 4runner stop block thing just for the hell of it i can see how this could help and not help so it will be fun to try it out. as far as lifting the front on lonch i have enough power to do that with out bad struts. still thats a dam good 60 ft i pull 1.7 on a slick.
btw that tire brand - tire size
 

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Hey Allmotor,

Nice times!

You say that with the completely blown front struts, your car squats TOO much. So you added the bumpstops, cool. But if it squats TOO much, why not put in some front struts as Itsuki Drifter suggests. Sounds like they won't hurt your launch, and your car will be more stable/safer at the higher speeds reached towards the end of the track.
By the way, what are your $500 in mods to reach a 14.02? I'm very curious. Any weight reduction done?
I'll be doing some more dragging this summer in my new race prepped car, just to see what times it can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Heres my setup
85 p type
fully loaded leather sunroof from the factory
MODS Cut open air box Stock toyota filter
3inc custom side pipe exhaust still has factory cat Cost $50 in raw pipe
Zex 75 shot bought used for $250
6 NGK R 22retc plugs $20
Used Apexi AFC $100
Tire Michelin Pilots 225/60R14 at 20psi with good burnout
As i said this is my set up. i dont have fire breathing 7mgte just a 150k mile 5m on spray. If i was trapping in the 12's i would stiffen the front end up some of course i dont have a death wish. I am willing to make a set of these custom stops and u guys can try them out and see what u think. The biggest problem with the IRS is when it squats to much we lose camber thus we lose tire contact patch. this is how i found to beat that problem. All i wanna know iis what setups u guys run to help ur launch at the track. I understand if u have a HO 7mgte that ur susp is going to be setup alot different.
i can get 1.8's and 1.9's 60'ft on michelin's not slicks not even drag radials. I plan on getting a set of BFG drags soon.
 

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A bit off-topic, and for that I apologise...

But what Zex kit are you using? My understanding of them was they are very application specific, but if one could be adapted, I wouldn't mind using it to help me spool...
 

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well, heres the post dave made when he came to largo and watched me break the first diff.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mk2/message/95200

my setup was stock springs, struts, and swaybar up front, and stock springs with 1in twist in spacers, kyb gr2's, and stock swaybar in the back. i had 2 amps, a sealed box with 2 12's, spare tire, ,2 tool boxes, spare alt, ,2 gals of water, a couple quarts of oil, a quart of auto tranny fluid (for the power steering) my fat ass, and i got plenty of traction till the turbo fully sppoled to 8psi. read daves post, it will attest to the traction i had off the line and i was making more tq then a 5m on a 75 shot, ,the rear planted perfectly. i would recomend stock height springs with ruffly double the stock spring pressure in the rear with a good set of adjustable shocks, and either st's or coilovers in the front with adjustable shocks for the front. oh, and obviously a much stronger lsd. lol.
william
 

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oh yeah, the tires i was running were M+S P245/60/14
98S. i had never heard of them before. i went to a used tire place and
these were the only 245/60/14's they had. think i paid $40 for the
pair, mounted and balanced.
william
 

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To say that handling doen't matter for a drag car is rediculous, cars get loose, and they can get loose anywhere on the track. You'll wind up in the wall if your lucky, if not in the other drivers car. Having no dampening will also give you hottible braking characteristics thus making the car even more dangerous either at the end of the track or if you have to shut down, brake to avoid the opposing car comeing over the center etc... To each his own butt I certainly hope that this setup is not driven on the street AT ALL.
 

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I do drag my supra as well. well not latily. been tweaking stuff and well I have to get my other diff rebuilt and a new rear tranny mount but either way I pulled [email protected] with like a 2.2 60ft on my 6M-GTE I could only wish that my 60ft's were down below 2 seconds. if I could get them down to 1.8 I'd damn near be into the 12's....

also how on earth do you guys get away with slicks? upgraded diffs?




ITSUKI Drifter said:
I am very involed in drag racing but my point is that the set-up is dangerous to my liking... I have a very torquey 6MGTE pushing my car to go tailwhip to the right during a hard 3K shot from the hole... I have been going to great lenghts on finding the ultimate set-up on drag racing... I am not that stupid to give that point withour considering that it is for drag racing use... I have a nice 70/30 front and still on the search for the rear... I have tried KYB gas-a-just which is just to stiff for it, while a set of monroe gas-matics and sensa-tracs are still too soft for my liking, the toyota factory shocks is also soft to my interest for it bottoms out like the monroe...

and also the point I am saying is a straight line set-up and not autocross

well it is good to know you are toyota tech and has achieved a low 14 1/4 mile run and that is running NOS and not turbo boost...I am coming from my car being boosted and runnning MT Indy profile S/S street slicks (26") and running low 13's on 12 psi
 
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