Drive line, 1 piece?
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
If you're talking about a one-piece tailshaft, forget it. You need to be able to split the tailshaft otherwise it's impossible to remove without removing the transmission first. This is because the tailshaft goes through a hole in the rear subframe which prevents you from dropping it down after it's disconnected from the diff. It's a PITA but that's how it is with Mk2's.
Joined
·
421 Posts
now if you could have one made that has a 4 bolt mounting plate kinda like the stock one but minus the carrier and U-joint then I think that could work then you just undo the 4 bolts and split it in half then you can take each piece out separatly
Avp23 said:
Joined
·
1,687 Posts
Or, you could remove the bolts on the diff., angle it out of the way, and work in the 1 piece shaft. Doesn't take long, considering you probably won't have to remove it again for several miles. I just had one made for my AT car.
$300
$300
Joined
·
235 Posts
Where did you have it made and did you notice any difference? My carrier bearing is going out and instead of just getting a new bearing I would really like to get a one piece drive line. Thanks for any info.
Joined
·
1,687 Posts
Haven't installed it yet; pulled the trans out for a rebuild. A local drivetrain specialist/machinist (Axle & Rack) built it for $302. I'm selling it and having one built for my W58 setup. The current one was built for the AT.
Joined
·
123 Posts
The diff on my parts car according to the guy I bought it with is definetly one-piece...I'll keep you posted on the deal with it...its kinda weird.
Joined
·
235 Posts
I would love to get an aluminum one if possible. I called all the local shops and they either just wouldn't do it, don't work with aluminum, or don't think it would work but would be willing to give it a shot for $500. Please let me know if anyone can get one made. The issues discussed locally were whether or not it would bind with a one piece shaft because the transmission output and the diff input may not be at the correct angle to eachother. I dunno, it sounded like BS to me but I'd like some more info before I decide. I don't want to get a nice one piece driveshaft only to have it disintegrate on my a year down the road.
Joined
·
8,745 Posts
Jim Jobe on the SOGI list was doing AL driveshafts at one time. I'm not sure if these are still available or not. I'd talk to Inland Empire Driveshafts, they should have a website. I talked to them awhile back and they said it wouldn't be a problem making an aluminum shaft. I wouldn't worry about the driveshaft angle in a MkII, it is almost a perfect straightline from the tranny to the rear end. Make sure you install a driveshaft hoop if you go to a one piece shaft.
Joined
·
2,242 Posts
Maxx Autoworks in the Seattle, WA area lists aluminum driveshafts for the Mk3 Supra on their site: http://www.maxxautoworks.com
![]()
![]()
Perhaps a series of them could be fabricated for fitment on the Mk2
___
Perhaps a series of them could be fabricated for fitment on the Mk2
___
Joined
·
235 Posts
Damn that's pretty! Unfortunately it's not much, if any cheaper than what I could get it done locally. I was hoping someone would come up with that $300 driveshaft. I have a couple days off coming up so I'm going to do some more searching in the local driveshaft/machine shop places.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
