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Any hints on how to do it best? I guess putting the front on jackstands, supporting the tranny with a jack, dismounting this little crossmember, unbolt all bolts, put everything back in in reverse sequence?
it couldn't be more simpler. I do suggest that when you support the trans with a jack (preferred trans jack but good floor jack with decent board between jack and trans pan will do) that you push the trans up a bit to relieve the pressure from the rear mount. :)

edit: oh yeah, unbolt the crossmember from the trans first then the car. might be a tad easier that way. ;)
 

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no problem! It's easier to remove that sucker than it is to realign it upon install. :D
 

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and a custom drilled rear flange mount for the diff.

Why - Could have used a factory Toyota flange, drilled by Toyota. I have 3 here right now.
 

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Just get a once piece driveshaft already! :p


...btw I get that high speed vibration as well.....I cannot trace where its coming from. New everything in my driveline!!!
Take your Dshaft back out and have it rebalanced. I had a discrunteld worker balance my shaft once. Wasn't out by much but could feel it over 80mph. After a re balance I can do 150 smooth as silk. O and tell them you tern your motor up to 9000 rpm.

I had the owner balence mine the second time. He turned his balancer up as fast as it could go then placed a glass of water on the balancer just for show.

AND r154 and w58 rubber mounts are the same. You just spin it around to fit.
 

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I'm planning to go for a long ride (Italy) next week, I'll see what the car does. There's a lot of mountain passes...
Got a way to record video, that would be an awesome thing to watch!!
When I was in Japan I wedged my digital camera between the dash and the windshield using my sweatshirt. I got some awesome videos that way. :facesjump
 

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Why - Could have used a factory Toyota flange, drilled by Toyota. I have 3 here right now.
Because at the time it was a crunch to get it done for the AKA Rally (which didn't happen). I had bought one that fit the diameter AND holes of the rear MKIII U-Joint Flange however it didn't fit the MKII LSD input shaft diameter, was too big. The second one that I exchanged it for was the right diameter for the input shaft on the LSD, and the right diameter to mate up with the rear half U-Joint flange, but the holes were wrong and I just said fuck it and marked, and drilled and filed them to perfectly align between the old holes.

I got tired of trying to find the right one based off of second hand half-truths. The flanges out of 88-92 2 or 4x4 trucks yadda yadda yeah.. that's *shrugs* whatever. Until someone else can definitively say THIS is the one you need (for the diff) it'll be something that people are just going to have to figure out on their own when they do their 7M swap if they decide to upgrade to the larger MKIII rear shaft.
 

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Rusty, sorry to hear you had such difficulty. You have my #, paid for tech support, use it. I don't need a dissertation, I just asked why ;)

The Toy 2wd flange, should be correct, if from an 84+ with the 14mm headed 10mm bolts. I have matched them up to the MKII DS and they line up. Remember, I spent 18 years doing nothing but, dismantling Toyota's. I have mixed and matched more parts than probably any other member of this forum. I definately don't know it all, but, I'm here to help when I can. Especialy those people that have paid for my services.
 

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Take your Dshaft back out and have it rebalanced. I had a discrunteld worker balance my shaft once. Wasn't out by much but could feel it over 80mph. After a re balance I can do 150 smooth as silk. O and tell them you tern your motor up to 9000 rpm.

I had the owner balence mine the second time. He turned his balancer up as fast as it could go then placed a glass of water on the balancer just for show.

AND r154 and w58 rubber mounts are the same. You just spin it around to fit.
I already had it rebalanced once.....idk, maybe I'll take it back again one day.
 

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What and where was it?
That sounds freaking cool!
I worked for Nix 99 Toyota Recycling from 1988-2006. Left for greener pastures, the pastures turned brown ...
 

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shaft

Just get a once piece driveshaft already! :p


...btw I get that high speed vibration as well.....I cannot trace where its coming from. New everything in my driveline!!!
Could you please tell me the make and model of the one pice drive shaft??:eek4dance:thank you from the guy up north.
 

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shaft

Just get a once piece driveshaft already! :p


...btw I get that high speed vibration as well.....I cannot trace where its coming from. New everything in my driveline!!!
Could you please tell me the make and model of the one piece drive shaft??:eek4dance:thank you from the guy up north.
 

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1 piece driveshafts are NOT the way to go to remove vibration from the driveline. The larger one-piece shaft is inherently more difficult to balance, and is a heavier item to come OUT of balance once the U-Joints wear down. NOT TO MENTION the fact that a STOCK MKII set of Flanges & Joints is IDIOTIC to get as a 1-piece. Seriously why spend $250 plus on a driveshaft that you'll have to replace due to staked U-Joints. IF you get a one piece shaft make sure it has replacable U-Joints.

I just went through the headache of a completely custom 2 piece driveshaft for my 7M-GTE swap. Using the A340 MKIII Auto Tranny Front Half, a MKIII Carrier bearing, a lengthened MKIII Rear Half, and a custom drilled rear flange mount for the diff.

$44 each for new Toyota U-Joints (MKIII) $176 (@ cost) MKIII Carrier Bearing (which has NO PLAY AT ALL), and $380 bucks for the Driveshaft to be made and balanced.

Now I have a driveshaft that is easier for the shop to balance, will stay balanced longer, I don't have to drop my diff to change my clutch, or pull my engine to pull my driveshaft, and if I twist out a U-Joint I can replace it on the side of the Road.

You're crazy if you want a 1-Piece.
Digging up a very old post here.

In my past life, I was a driveline fabricator, and did plenty of single shaft conversions. The trick is to go aluminum.

Also, many driveline shops don't bother to straighten the tube, and use tons of counterweight to fix vibrations.

There are plenty of Conversion transmission and diff yokes and flanges available to make toyota to 1310 or 1330 possible, which opens you up to outside snap ring, easily replaceable and if you so desire, sealed caps, solid journal, that'll take a ton of abuse and not require any maintenance for 100,000 miles.

And a 1 piece driveshaft is always going to be lighter than a 2 piece. Steel or not. I'm not sure where you got the idea that they're heavier?

Anyway, sorry to poke the bear, but your information is not absolutely correct. I've built 1pc replacement shafts for many many toyotas, and never had a complaint. Perhaps you used a bad vendor?
 
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