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I've had them all and the one I posted works awesome. It's basically a hand vacuum bleeder on steroids. I can bleed all 4 brakes in <10 minutes. It even works great on my Corolla clutch where the line goes UP from the cylinder and its a bugger to bleed. The worst bleeder to use is the ones that apply pressure to the reservoir like the Motive one. I threw that POS away. Anytime the seal is broken at the reservoir it blows brake fluid everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
@Dave in Seattle - The picture gamble posted of the speed bleeder valve tells me it's basically a spring-loaded. one-way check valve. As long as the pressure or vacuum applied to it are below what it takes to overcome the spring tension and get the ball off the seat, it's closed, and the system is sealed. So, if you're pulling a vacuum at the speed bleeder, it will take a certain amount of vacuum to move the ball off the seat and start sucking fluid out. Once the vacuum falls below that amount, the spring forces the ball back on it's seat, sealing the system, and no air can get into it.

If you were using regular bleeder nipples, I can see how air could get into the system. As the vacuum falls, if you don't immediately close the bleeder nipple, air can get in once the fluid flow stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Spent the day rounding up all parts I've been collecting that I'll need "at hand" to work on the front end.

I now have an area where the new KYB strut inserts are, along with the new top strut mounts, the Dobinson front springs, the Raptor Racing braided brake hoses, the new rotors and pads, and the Energy Suspension sway bar end links and tension rod bushings.

I'm forgoing doing the front lower control arm bushings at this time.

And I have another box with the shocks, springs, and some misc parts in it for the rear.

And all my tools have been rounded up, and put back in their correct tool boxes.

I'll be starting on this on Saturday, only a freaking WEEK or so late......
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Still sorting out all the parts I know I have so I can start The Great Front Suspension Rebuild.

Since I have to pull the struts and remove the springs to replace the top strut mounts, I figure it's a good time to put my new Raptor Raciing lowering springs in.

Now I just have to find them.....
 

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The suspension will be much easier to work on when you get the lowering springs in. With OEM springs you have to be careful because everything is under tension at all times so you need a spring compressor to get work started(you can rent one, you'll see what i mean when you start getting things apart), but with the lowered ones when you get the car in the air the springs are short enough that they are no longer compressed so you can just unbolt things and do what you need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I already own two spring compressors, so that's no problem.

These are the springs George says lowers the car about 3/4", so I don't know how much easier it will be to reinstall everything.

*IF* I can get the front done this week, I'd like to install my new KYB rear shocks, and possibly the matching lowering springs.
 

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Rear is way easier than the front honestly, once you've got the fronts done and have a little workshop momentum you'll be like ehhhh why not haha. Jack under the control arm, disconnect the shock and sway bar in the rear, and then drop the jack and you shouldn't have to compress the spring that much even to get it out, and the new lower springs should go in a bit easier with no compression needed(i don't think i had to compress to install dropped springs)
 

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You will fine. Use my tips and it will go much smoother,Jim.
Your body will be very tired afterwards.
I took SIX hours to do just the struts and upper mounts,solo.
Your efforts may take a lot longer. Maybe a week end.
Crawling on the ground is really hard to do for a long time.
I took my Naproxin B-4 I started and I was still sore ,the next day.

Gamble is younger and stronger than both us combined.

Just think smarter and don't work harder to do a job that you will be pleased as punch,when you are finished!
The results will give you a big grin.
As the ride height will be changed with the lowering springs,the alignment will be WAY OFF.
Do my string alignment trick before you even*think* about a test drive.

I used the same springs and I didn't worry about that issue.
Your lowering will change the camber and toe a lot.
Go around the block and get it back to your garage and set the front tires on newspaper for some slip. Then, do the string thing. You will see. Stock specs for toe in is fine,but the camber will be WAY negative. You will see,Jim. Just set the toe in.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Dave, out of all the years I've been working on cars and heard of the string alignment, I never had anybody explain it properly to me.

What do I measure with the piece of string?

What points to I measure to/from?

Is this only a way to "ballpark" the toe. or can it be used for other measurements?

Can you detail the way to do it?

The place I'm taking it to for the alignment is a first-class body/frame/restoration place. They turn out stunning work, and when I was there getting my Jeep done, I saw some of their work-in-progress and I was blown away by their attention to detail.

I'm stopping by the America's Tire place tomorrow on my way home from the Iowa. I'll be ordering my Toyo Proxes tires. I'm getting 245/45ZR16 to go on my 16x8 0 offset XXR rims. I'll naturally get the shop alignment done with the new wheels and tires.
 

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String alignment.

If you change tires/wheels.suspension,you will need an alignment.By a Pro.

The string or fishing line goes around the 4 tires at about the center line.
Must be done with car sitting lever and after you drive it to settle the suspension.
The angle of the string,next to the tires sidewalls, will show you the angle that the tires are pointing.Fronts and rears.
I have used a yard stick,too..... Only for toe in/out. Caster is more involved.
It will get you the alignment shop without tearing up the tires.

Left front tire: The string goes across both side walls and the string will be at an angle,sighting back to the rear tire.
If there is a space between the string and the rearward, trailing edge of the sidewall,the car has a
toe out condition. If the string across both sidewalls are touching,you can sight down the string towards the rear tire and see any angle,other than zero.
Look from the rear,also.
You want a little toe in: about 1/4 turn on that tie rod to lengthen it.
Try to center the steering wheel a little. Check the right front.

The steering wheel will not end up centered! That's OK,the total toe will be close enough.
That would be a whole additional paragraph to explain how to correct an off-center steering wheel.

So, don't worry about it!!!!!Really!!!

If you jack it up and let it down again,the tires will NOT have settled in.
Parking the front tires on some plastic will help settle them. The alignment machine has ball bearing turn plates.

I did ray85p's alignment jacked up with the tires on cinder blocks with plastic.
We did the rear toe,too.
Driveways are not level on purpose. We added a 2X6 on 2 blocks to level the car and still be able to crawl under it.
Does this make any sense?
Link: http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/susp/string.html
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-1204-determining-wheel-alignment-string-your-car/
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=string+alignment+method&view=detail&mid=4BFBF493ED171535FB754BFBF493ED171535FB75&FORM=VIRE
You Tube always has some answers.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
***Jim smacks head and goes "DUH...YouTube!!"***

I should have thought of looking on YouTube.

Thanks for the explanation. Since the alignment place is only a couple of miles away on surface streets, I'll just sloooowly drive there.

Didn't get the tires ordered today. My son sent me a text and needed help with repairing something, so it was "DAD-to-the-Rescue" after I left the Iowa.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
YAY!!! I FOUND MY SPRINGS!!!!

Somehow they wound up buried in a pile of radio and test equipment back in a corner of the garage.

The tip off was the UPS shipping label from George at Raptor Racing.

As soon as I saw "United States" on one edge of it that was exposed under a Tektronix spectrum analyzer, I knew I'd finally hit pay dirt.

Work starts in earnest Friday morning.....
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
CORRECTION.....

Work starts in earnest on Saturday morning.

Got a "ZOMG!!!" phone call from one of my radio buddies Thursday night. He'd scheduled a test session for a maritime guy to take the test for his GROL, and two of the other Commercial Examiners were out of town, and he desperately needed a third to run the session.

The guy needed to show his "Proof of Passing Certificate" for the examination to the Captain of the ship he works on, or he wouldn't be allowed to sail on the next leaving, which is early next week. He was the "understudy" for the ship's Radio Officer, who suddenly announced his retirement when they arrived in port last week, and was going to take over that position when the old guy retired at the end of the year.

SO....I came to the rescue again, since I'm both a "Volunteer Examiner" for Ham Radio license tests, and a "Commercial Examiner" for the commercial licenses.

The guy passed with a 95% grade, and thanked us profusely for putting on a test session on such short notice.

I now have everything staged in the garage, and I'm charging the batteries in my Makita 1/2" cordless impact wrench. Got the car up solidly on jack stands, and the front wheels are off, just waiting for Saturday morning so I can start tearing into it.....
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Some of my "problems" are due to the KVM switch I'm using. I have two PC's, one Windows for my Ham Radio stuff, and this Linux box that's my Daily Driver.

Once in a while, the KVM will do weird stuff, like insert an extra apostrophe, and reorder some letters.

I've confirmed it's the KVM switch by connecting the keyboard directly to this PC, and the weirdness never happens....

Have to go buy a BIG wrench to get the nuts off the top of the struts. I'll probably get a propane or MAPP gas torch "just in case" the OEM nuts need a bit of heat to get them loose!

I read the TSM, and they don't give a torque spec for the installing the new nuts, and the instructions from KYB don't show anything either. The TSM shows a drawing of the SST in use, and it looks like one of those things where the correct torque is "Just an RCH Before It Strips".

I'm assuming that if I torque it "As Tight As I Can Get It" that I'll be OK.....
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Update Time!

The driver's side strut is off the car and in the vise in the garage. I'll start taking it apart a bit later tonight.

I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought a 24" adjustable wrench to get the nut off the top of the strut. My wife's never seen a wrench that size, and she says it's so big, it almost doesn't look like it's real. Then she picked it up, and said "Oh, yeah, it's real alright. REAL HEAVY!".

And as I've told her before, "It's a good thing I bought all those parts!", as the brake hose is cracked, and some of the jacket (outer rubber layer) is missing, and you can see the fabric in several spots. No signs of any leakage, but these will be replaced with my new braided lines from George at Raptor Racing, along with a complete flush of the brake system with new fluid.

All 4 of the rubber parts on the front sway bar end link are toast! Cracked, split, and compressed so far they're actually loose. More Energy Suspension parts are "on the shelf" here, so out they go.

I ordered new polyurethane cushions for the brackets where it goes to the chassis, so those will be replaced, too, as soon as they get here.

The bushing in the lower control arm is also cracked and split. I wasn't planning on replacing these, but since I have them, it would be prudent to replace them with the Energy Suspension bushings I have, along with the spacers I got from ray85P.

I'll have to dig out Ray's thread where he went through this.

The rubber cushions on the strut control rod look good, but they, too, will get replaced with Energy Suspension polyurethane parts.

The rotor looks fine, and the pads have plenty of material left on them, but they'll be replaced with new ceramic pads, and my new StopTech drilled rotors will go on when I start putting things back together.
 

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I'll guess that about 150 POUNDS of torque is about right.
That bastard is really tight,Jim.
Borrow an air hammer and a propane bottle full of compressed air.
Chain the strut to the floor or your bench and give it a go.
Don't squish the housing.
HEAT may be required.

This amount of work sounds like more than a week end of work!

Work safe and smart.

It will be warm enough to make you sweat a little.
https://www.wunderground.com/q/zmw:90745.1.99999

You have a large amount of work planned,Jim.
I would like to help you,but you are too far away.
You are planning a LOT of suspension changes,so don't freak out when things do not go as planned.

SIX hours for the strut replacements for this skinny white boy.
I hope that my tips and tricks will make your HUGE job a little easier.
Your ass will be kicked,totally.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oO3YmT2d-8k
Me,too.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yeah, I'm not going to get as much done as I had planned before Supras in Vegas, I know that much right now!

I was just looking at the lower control arm, and the boot on the ball joint is all cracked and split, so that has to get replaced, too.

I'm gonna fire up the pressure washer tomorrow and blow the grease and glop off a bunch of stuff!

I should have been at this point two MONTHS ago, but oh, well......

Once everything is clean, it should go back together much nicer. I've already cleaned up the bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle, the caliper to the strut, and scraped most of the glop off the backside of the brake backing plate.

Hey it might be a 30 year old car, and need a bunch of fixin' and cleanin', but it's a 30 year old CALIFORNIA DESERT car, and there's ZERO rust on everything I can see!
 

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