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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently pulled the old, rusty horns off my '85 "shell" builder. I tried testing them with a small 12v power supply, and nada! Could it be the power supply didn't have enough balls to run the horns? Or are my old horns toast?? Are these guys polarity sensitive? (Tried them both ways). Oh, and what is the function of that crazy little black thing that hangs down from the horn?? Air vent? Alien communication device? Dog whistle?? Lol
Thanks for any help.


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I think your horns are toast. I don’t believe polarity matters. And I’m not sure what that dangling thing is on the bottom. My horns side don’t have that! Maybe it’s a piece of electrical tape or wrapping from the wiring loom?

You could try supplying 12v from a car battery. You mentioned a small 12v so might not be enough balls to your point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think your horns are toast. I don’t believe polarity matters. And I’m not sure what that dangling thing is on the bottom. My horns side don’t have that! Maybe it’s a piece of electrical tape or wrapping from the wiring loom?

You could try supplying 12v from a car battery. You mentioned a small 12v so might not be enough balls to your point.
Thanks for the info! They look pretty rough, so not hard to believe they would be bad. I'll probably have to source some new ones close to original as possible, or some used originals. Got plenty time for that!

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tubing is for draining water IIRC
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update.....tested the horns on my other car (which has no horns for some crazy reason). And they both honk!! Toyota quality shines through after 40 years! Just gonna need a little cosmetic resto!

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Give the front of the horns a little tap with a plastic handle screwdriver, that should loosen up the thing a bit and make it honk a little better. You can also use the screw on the back side to "adjust" the loudness, just a slight turn can dial in how loud it is.

Also, don't lay the paint down to heavily, that will deaden the sound quite a bit.

And yes, the rubber thing is for draining water out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Give the front of the horns a little tap with a plastic handle screwdriver, that should loosen up the thing a bit and make it honk a little better. You can also use the screw on the back side to "adjust" the loudness, just a slight turn can dial in how loud it is.

Also, don't lay the paint down to heavily, that will deaden the sound quite a bit.

And yes, the rubber thing is for draining water out of it.
Thanks, Flyin' Hawaiian! I suspected the little screws were some type of adjustment. They look thoroughly rusted, gonna need some penetrating oil!

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Note, DO NOT use phillips screwdriver on those rusty screws. Or any screws for that matter. Not single phillips head screws anywhere in car! They are JIS, use matching JIS screwdriver only! Fits so mufh better, with less chance of stripping. Even on phillips screws!
 

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Not quite true, but yes, you should use a JIS screwdriver on some philips screws in your car. Easy way to tell if its JIS or just a regular philips (as in all those black or silvery-yellow interior screws, they're just regular philips screws), if there's a dot on the head of the screw, it is indeed JIS.

Also, you can make a #2 philips screwdriver work too if you don't have a JIS screwdriver! I've used philips 1/4" drive bits to do this many times, they're cheap and easy to get. Take a slight bit off the tip of the screwdriver and it will be closer to a JIS one. This is the difference between the two:
Head Facial expression Human body Jaw Organism


Everything is identical, except there's a 10º angled tip on philips drivers, this allows it to "cam out" rather than lock onto the screw. As it gets tighter, the philips will lift out of the slot and that usually damages the screw, even on regular philips screws too. The JIS doesn't bottom out since the edge is flatter, and it holds its grip within a screw's head better.

Okay, enough of tool class 101! Pretty sure you guys got the point (see what I did there?)!!!
 

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83 Turbo '84 Dk Blue Auto-> 5 Spd... '85 ..gradually acquiring parts to Turbo ... have 82 Engine
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I especially find rusted bolts to be a prob on Fuel sender units for the Gas tank... & swapping out a Gas tank is such a P.I.T.A. that anytime i;m replacing a tank... I always not only get Stainless Steel bolts ... (from a Specialty Industrial Fastener Supply Company ) ... but get a normal Hex head... so if they ever have to be removed again... it comes off with a Socket wrench...

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I especially find rusted bolts to be a prob on Fuel sender units for the Gas tank... & swapping out a Gas tank is such a P.I.T.A. that anytime i;m replacing a tank... I always not only get Stainless Steel bolts ... (from a Specialty Industrial Fastener Supply Company ) ... but get a normal Hex head... so if they ever have to be removed again... it comes off with a Socket wrench...

Cheers
Good advice. Thanks Dave_Cod!

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