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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I decided to paint my engine bay to match the rest of the car. I stripped it clean to the frame and built a paint booth in my driveway to spray it. I used ppg DCU2042 clearcoat. WHAT A MISTAKE! Anyone going to spray their engine bay stay away from this clear. It is a speed clear. It dries so fast that by the time you finish a coat, the part you started on has dried enough that the overspray does not blend in. My engine bay is now full of overspray and has quite a bit of orange peel too. And color sanding inside the engine bay is damn near impossible. My only recourse is to sand it all smooth and respray a different clear on top.

AARRGGG....this also means I can't take the mk2 to Vegas....AGAIN! :mad: . My poor mk2 hasn't seen Vegas since 99. Seems every time the Vegas event comes around it's always down.

*SIGH*

Christian
 

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Racefiend said:
AARRGGG....this also means I can't take the mk2 to Vegas....AGAIN! :mad: . My poor mk2 hasn't seen Vegas since 99. Seems every time the Vegas event comes around it's always down.

*SIGH*

Christian
Christian,

Don't worry about the paint in the engine bay. Just bring your car to Vegas. We promise we won't make fun of your engine bay, believe that and I have a bridge in Brooklyn that you might be interested in.

Seriously, you can sand it down and repaint it anytime. Bring it to Vegas anyway.

Leslie
 

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Are you sure you used the correct reducer and hardener? What was the weather like when you were painting? There are different types of reducer for different degrees of weather and humidity. If it was "kicking" that quickly I have a feeling it's something in the mixture.

The marvelous thing about clear is that it will hide some imperfections. You should be abel to get away with "cutting" the surface of the previous clear coat as opposed to completely sanding away what you've already sprayed. Another application of clear, with correct mixture, should level out and hide the overspray.

Also, the engine bay will be tricky no matter what you decide to use. There are so many high and low spots that these will create a vortex effect to the paint as it's sprayed out of the gun, especially when painting low or bowl shape areas. The mist will swirl around in the air but not lay on the surface. These areas may require you to reduce the size of the spray pattern and/or reduce the air pressure to the gun.

Another thing to try before anything else would be to use a clay bar on the overspray areas.

Clearly off my rocker.
Scott
 

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Just wetsand it level and spray it again.

That clear wouldn't be a blender would it? Did you have to mix it to prepare it? If not its probably a blender clear. That stuff is meant to hide the line where your clear ends if your not painting an entire panel. Its usually done on pillars. That stuff behaves exactly as you described, its very thin and dries very quick. It will not give you a deep glossy clear. Try a normal 3 part clear next time, a low pressure high volume gun might help a little in those tight confines too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yup, thats what I'm planning on doing. Gonna use some 1500 paper and sand it as smooth as I can and use another clear on top. I used DT895 reducer and dcx61 hardener. 4:1:1 just like instructions said. I built a booth and it was around 85-90 dry degrees inside, so the reducer was right for it. I bought this stuff based on a buddy's recommendation. He does nice work, however he's never done an engine bay before, and neglected to tell me that :( . Also I didn't notice it was referred to as a speed clear till after the problem and I went onto PPG's website. Live and learn I guess.

I shouldn't have a problem spraying a different clear over this one right? I don't think I'm gonna do it myself, tho. I'll do the prep work and just take it into a shop for them to shoot the clear.

I was thinking of slapping it back together for Vegas, but I don't really wanna take it all apart again. Not to mention the more you install/remove, the more chips/scratches you get. I'll just wait for next year :cry:

Christian
 

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It shouldn't be neccessary to resand the entire bay. I'd recommend using those 3M steel wool pads, there made just for this purpose....well, similar purposes. All you really need to do it "cut" the surface, dull the gloss to provide a tooth for the next application of clear. This could take some time. Of course you could always use a DA sander and get most of the job done lickity split.

You should be fine applying another clear over this clear. Most should have similar properties. However you should ask the professionals before taking my word for anything.

Just another damn long hair.
Scott
 

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MkIISuperSupra said:
Just bring your car to Vegas. We promise we won't make fun of your engine bay, believe that and I have a bridge in Brooklyn that you might be interested in. Leslie
so does that mean you are going to Vegas this year :p


Racefiend said:
Oh most definitely!
Boooooooo :twak:
ohh BTW let us know how your car comes out :wink:
 

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Yes folks, Christian will more than likely be in Vegas anyway!!! He'll just be there w/ the MKIV!!! :0)

(BTW C-, I still need to take a look at the MKIV one of these days, when I'm down there!!! Kept forgetting last year!!!).
 
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