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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, after I cleaned out inside the cat, the car runs much better for some reason (I did the same with the accord and no change). So I decide to take the distrubitor cap out and clean it too along with it's 2parts condenser (I think. they have magnet). I use w40 to clean the rust off where the rotor goes onto. I also adjusted the cables, trying to get rit of the slacks.
The engine runs, but weaker than before and the check engine kind of blinking several times. So I did the engine by pulling the plug wires one by one and found out that #3 cylinder make no change when I pulled. I check the wire (engine runs) it gives spark and spark plug sparks too. The injector sound normal.
So my question is What the hell wrong with it or did I do something wrong?
THNAKS!
 

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also is it possible that you may have slightly cracked something that can cause some issues, i would remove the cap and rotor inspect them from every angle, hook it back up right and make sure all the wires and going to the right place and go from there.....it may just be human error, we all make mistakes...lol :pat:
 

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Your rotor may be out of synch, you may need to reset everything to TDC and then realign your rotor, then carefully put your cap back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responds.
I never disconnect the wire from the cap. I just pop the rotor and clean inside the distributor. I use w40 to cleaned the rusted shaft (where the rotor pop sit on). Maybe when I pop the carbon builtup in the cap and mess it up. But I didnt see any visible defect. Oh well, let me change the cap and see what happen.
thnaks!
 

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You used WD40... invest in a can of Contact Cleaner some time. WD40 is a lubricant that will leave residue that can harm electrical componants if you use too much. Contact Cleaner is a mild solvent that will dissolve gunk and dirt, and then evaporate leaving no mess.
 

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Did you remove the plug wires from the cap? If so, double check the firing order. Maybe you crossed a couple of plug wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
nevermind about the #3 cylinder. This afternoon I tried to check out the cap and discover a bounch of metal pieces broken off the inner distributor teeth or gear (the inner condenser). I guess when I put them back I forgot to measure the clearance. The metal pieces are the side of the pencil lead. After I cleaned it up and put it back togather, the car wont start. I think the gap is too big. Hopefully I dont have to get a new distributor. I hate even the though of pull the distributor out and put back and taking the chance of messing up the timing. :mad:
thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
got distributor changed and power restore. Now I can start my car quicker than before or back to normal. while I was trying to reset the pickup coil of the old distr. the car runs, but jumping, bucking and hesitating. May be this is one of the reason that cause it beside the fuel filter, timing, and plugs etc.. . Now all I need to do it figure out what cause the mis and the rpm from going up and down. After changing the trans. mount the car shift a little better, but I still think it can be better by change the motor mount. I wanted to, but it looks complecated. Maybe someone can show me how.
thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
finally, I dont what does it, the wealther or the tune. This thing now got power. I was zooming to dc today. I went crazy, passing almost everybody. I am not going to tell how fast, but got to dc alittle over an hour. Maybe I can improve alittle more by change the muffler. Question, why hell I smell gas when it runs so good? Even on highway when I opened the moonroof. If I added fuel pressure regulator to it would I be benefit from it?
thanks!
 

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I changed my motor mounts not too long ago. It isn't too bad. undo the bolts, jack up the engine, and slip out the mounts. (as far as I can remember)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Where do I just the engine at? The oil pan or somewhere else?
Do I have to take the metal bar that hole the engine up out?
thanks!
 

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supraii said:
finally, I dont what does it, the wealther or the tune. This thing now got power
Actually, the weather can make it run better - ask any Cessna pilot. Colder air is denser. We've been having temps in the low 40's here lately and my Supras are quicker and the 152 takes off shorter, too.
 

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did you replace the distributor or just adjust around the broken teeth. my pickup coils went out one time and those distributors aren't cheap. those teeth tell the ecu where the engine is for injector pulse timing. tach readout, and electronic spark advance. that would be the stumbling, hesitation, missfiring, and tach going crazy you saw.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey, do you mean the 2 pieces that act like magnet? If it is, I got them and you can have them + shipping. As for the distributor I think I can get you one used for about $35 + shipping.
As for my broken teeth distr. it works. It just that the teeth not evenly broken which cause uneven firing. So I replace with used one for about $35.
thanks!
 
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