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So what is your plan for doors and hood? I have yet to try to fix either that are really rusty like yours, they are usually not too hard to find replacements for here in North America. You're so far in dissembling it now, but I would still encourage you to import a clean shell. That is a pretty crazy amount of work. Another issue you will run into in your rear wheel wells, is once you remove all of the rust from the steel you have in there, there won't be much left. The wheel wells are surprisingly thin. I've had to do complete rear wheel well replacement on a couple cars here before. Also, I find it to be more challenging fixing cars that have already had rust repairs done to them.

Your front rails in the engine bay don't look too bad luckily. At least your car didn't suffer a leaky battery, the passenger side is generally good.

The rust on the frame rail your blue jackstand is sitting on is from scratched paint and undercoating from being jacked, it may just grind off.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I might be lucky to find doors because the Celicas are not as rare, I will have to search all over Europe but I have time.

The hood is a bit more difficult. Getting a good one in the US plus shipping and taxes might be as expensive as taking mine to a professional. After the car is completely stripped I take a lot of pictures of everything to get some quotes. We will see.

I am not happy with the rear wheel wells altogether. Although the overfenders are so wide, the inner well is practically the same as the L type. A friend of mine is working a lot with glass fiber and carbon and he proposed to use nuts like those to replace the original domes and reshape the whole stuff underneath, so we might try to use the wheel well from another car and fabricate something:
 

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If you are going to ship one from the US, you might as well just get a carbon fibre one from Advan in California. Then it will never rust again, the hatch and sunroof too. If not, you may want to try Australia. These cars aren't too rare their and their climate should preserve the steel parts well + they might be cheaper to ship from for you. But fixing the hoods and doors isn't impossible, its just difficult. You essentially need to bend out the entire edge along the inside as the exterior sheet metal folds over the inner liner. If you can separate the inner liner without destroying the outer, fixing the rust is trivial. Then you need to get it back together too. I've yet to bother to attempt it on hoods and doors as I still have supply here, but I need to do this on a couple hatches soon.

As for doors, good news for you, the steel is exactly the same between them. I just recently broke down some old celica and supra doors and compared all of the inner panel holes and they are the same. That means a roll up window door can be converted to power windows and vice a versa.

I would highly advise against bonding fiberglass or carbon fiber to a steel car. I've experimented with it myself, and seen many people do it, and it never ever stands the test of time. You're mixing 2 completely different materials, they don't expand at the same rates. For the wheel wells, just fabricate multiple patch panels. Its monotonous, but doable.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
If you are going to ship one from the US, you might as well just get a carbon fibre one from Advan in California. Then it will never rust again, the hatch and sunroof too. If not, you may want to try Australia. These cars aren't too rare their and their climate should preserve the steel parts well + they might be cheaper to ship from for you. But fixing the hoods and doors isn't impossible, its just difficult. You essentially need to bend out the entire edge along the inside as the exterior sheet metal folds over the inner liner. If you can separate the inner liner without destroying the outer, fixing the rust is trivial. Then you need to get it back together too. I've yet to bother to attempt it on hoods and doors as I still have supply here, but I need to do this on a couple hatches soon.
We have repaired the driver side inner door panel that way before. Thats really not a big deal except getting the fold back exactly. The bigger issue is to patch the outer skin. Thats why I would give it to an oldtimer specialist. Its quite common on oldtimers and they have a lot experience on such stuff...

Shipping from Australia is not an option, its about twice as far away than the US. I got some quotes to get an MS85 windscreen shipped from there. The cheapest one was about 2500 Euros, about the same price that you pay here to get a custom made windscreen.

As for doors, good news for you, the steel is exactly the same between them. I just recently broke down some old celica and supra doors and compared all of the inner panel holes and they are the same. That means a roll up window door can be converted to power windows and vice a versa.
Yes they are the same. I got a rustfree bent Celica door a long time ago but it was too warped so we just fixed the original door.

I would highly advise against bonding fiberglass or carbon fiber to a steel car. I've experimented with it myself, and seen many people do it, and it never ever stands the test of time. You're mixing 2 completely different materials, they don't expand at the same rates. For the wheel wells, just fabricate multiple patch panels. Its monotonous, but doable.
Maybe that was expained wrong. I dont want to put any fiberglass on the body.
I thought about using the panel from another car to get a nice single part around the whole wheel well and push it further out underneath the Fender flares. Then adapting the flares to the new wheel well using those laminated nuts.

Its just because the flares are so wide but the inner contour is almost as narrow as an L-Type wheel well.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I did not post for a long time now, mostly because I did not have a lot time to work on the car and I could not get the pictures working. So I try it now with attachments.

So what happened so far? I took everything off the body and built a rotating stand:

IMG_20190630_145927.jpg


I started to brush the undercoating:

IMG_20190811_121512.jpg IMG_20190811_102012.jpg

That did just work in the front. The other undercoating is too thick and sticky to get it off easily so I will get it dry ice blasted.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I will start the bodywork in the front where I could get off the coating because I don´t know when I will get it blasted.

As I wanted to know how the front main beams look inside and I have to take it off anyway, I decided today to take off the towing hook bracket:
IMG_20190901_112916.jpg IMG_20190901_115945.jpg IMG_20190901_115954.jpg

It looks bad, but at least its not completely gone. Nothing that sandblasting cant fix.

Further back the beam looks a lot better. I checked with the inspection cam and after about 10cm the inside is flooded with cavity protector.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So I was searching for months now for a reasonable priced Collision damage repair manual...

Somehow I always searched in english because I thought thats the easiest way to get one, but with over a hundred dollars they were always too expensive.


Last week I searched in german for the first time... 18€ including shipping... and in my native language :laugh:
 

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Oh wow, I was very wrong about your car not having battery acid rust, you most certainly do. Sandblasting that is actually a problem, see my post in that thread I linked previously for more info...

https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?60985-82L-Bodywork-amp-Slow-Build&p=1002065#post1002065

Unfortunately PhotoBucket has screwed everyone over again and there are bandwith limits again for direct linking. Here is the link the gallery for that specific update...
http://s28.photobucket.com/user/SupraFiend/library/Cams 82L Hardtop/Lower Rad Support and Front End Reinforcement
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Oh wow, I was very wrong about your car not having battery acid rust, you most certainly do.
Unfortunately you are right... And I am studying your thread very closely to get an idea of how to fix everything.

I opened the other rail today and removed the front mask. Although its far from rust free, it looks a lot better on the passenger side.
The huge rust flakes inside most likely come from an area on the rail a bit further back that was opened and very badly closed to repair a broken nut.

IMG_20191005_082736.jpg

IMG_20191005_082748.jpg


Maybe it was also better conserved due to a leaky oil cooler line over the years. There is an oil film all over the rail and even between the sheets as you can see on the upper picture.

IMG_20191005_082754.jpg


So thats how it looks so far. Still a bit to remove before I can access everything.

IMG_20191005_091842.jpg

IMG_20191005_091908.jpg

The next step is to remove the lower cooler support rail and removing the outer sheet of the main rail back up to the strut tower.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
One thing that bothers me is that I found some spot welds that were not weldet correct. It seems that they have never had proper contact.

When I used the spot weld drill the inside just fell out and there is rust between the two sheets which shouldnt be if the weld was correct:

IMG_20191005_075152.jpg

I drilled on the correct place, the spot was clearly visible. Did anyone of you encounter something like that before?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Oh wow, I was very wrong about your car not having battery acid rust, you most certainly do. Sandblasting that is actually a problem, see my post in that thread I linked previously for more info...

https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?60985-82L-Bodywork-amp-Slow-Build&p=1002065#post1002065

Unfortunately PhotoBucket has screwed everyone over again and there are bandwith limits again for direct linking. Here is the link the gallery for that specific update...
http://s28.photobucket.com/user/SupraFiend/library/Cams 82L Hardtop/Lower Rad Support and Front End Reinforcement
I removed the outer skin of the rail today. The rust on the Power flange is as bad as i expected.

I dont know if you can see it on the Pictures, but the difference between US and EU spec is quite significant.
I missed to take a picture of the whole beam, but the bumper stay reinforcement is a lot shorter, the reinforcement plate in front of the subframe mounting is not there and the reinforcement of the subframe bolts looks a lot different too.

All is quite well covered in wax, but it didnt conserve it as well as i was hoping for.
 

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Nice to see another European Car here.
It seems to be a lot of work in Front of you.
A Perfect white Supra from Austria where selling a few years ago to Bremen.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
More work, more rust, more surprises.

Today I have opened the rocker panel and the rear quarter panel to get acess for the dry ice blasting.

Surprise, it has been repaired previously... They have put a new sheet on without cutting away the old rusty one...
IMG_20191103_132807.jpg


After removing the outer skins I have a good view on what has to be done.

Obviously a lot has to be replaced, but its not as bad as I thought it would be. The rocker reinforcement looks quite intact.
IMG_20191103_134541.jpg


After I found the second sheet on the rear Pocket it was quite clear that everything has to be replaced here.
IMG_20191103_134548.jpg


This is not as it will look like when I start welding. There will be removed a lot more. It´s just to get an overview and to open every cavity to get access with the dry ice blaster to get rid of the old wax coating inside.

I will replace the whole lower section of the rocker panel, I just have to find out how far down I can keep the original metal.
 

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Ah! Yeah that big piece of reinforcement plate thats inside of our rails just behind the rebar mounting point seems to be missing in the EU cars. Probably not great for chassis strength, but it will make fixing the rust easier! That plate is what get us as acid from the battery comes into the rail from the little hole in the top of the rail under the tray. But with the reinforcement plate there, the acid eats the paint on 2 pieces of thick steel that are welded together with a million spot welds. My preference is always to separate all of the pieces completely, but that plate has made this the one place where I have to cut the rail off and leave it in a vat of Metal Rescue to get the rust out.

Nothing worse then fixing poorly done repairs by someone else, its always harder then fixing original rust I find.

Wax spray is always my last resort. It doesn't protect as well as paint, primer and seam sealer. It also doesn't do anything unless you can shoot it on the exposed seams between 2 layers of steel. Randomly shooting it into cavities does very little unfortunately.

Yeah I occasionally find a factory spot weld that didn't get very good penetration and didn't do anything, it happens.

Be careful with welding up the rocker in front of the wheel well. It is really tricky to replace all of that steel, and leave yourself access to seal up all of the places you welded. There are 3 layers of steel on the seam at the bottom when its all back together. I've adjusted my process 3 times so far to fix those corners properly. And yes, my first attempt rusted out again because I didn't seal up the welded areas correctly. I have not documented my latest process yet unfortunately. The key though, was a big access hole in the interior from above, and then the middle piece has multiple access holes in it so I can seal the complete 3 layer seam from above in the interior once its all back together.
 
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