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Discussion Starter #1
OK,new alignment but there is NO camber adjustment!
We have caster and front toe only, as stock.
Most of our cars that have been lowered with springs cause the camber to go WAY negative(Top of tires tilt in,
towards the engine)
Fresh alignment and it pulls to the right?
The alignment person was lazy.
Because the caster was in spec but the cross camber was off."It's not adjustable" was the comment.
B.S.!!!!!
Say that the caster is+5.0* on both sides,but the camber is .1* positive on the LF,but the RF camber is .6* positive.....
It's going to drift to the right! (Most camber,least caster rule)
Simple solution:
Take the left caster back about to 4.2* to compensate for the cross camber!
.8* caster takes care of the .5* cross camber!!!!!!!!

This Dodge will probably pull to the right because of the cross caster:
http://s695.photobucket.com/user/audiophile2020k/media/Random/AlignmentSpecs7272009.jpg.html?t=1248731343
(Least caster,most camber rule)
This Honduh will go to the right,also:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/attachments/2005-2010-odyssey/7660d1254895717-front-end-shake-08-ody-touring-alignment-printout.jpg
There is .4* MORE camber on the right side!Caster is fine.
This Prius is GREAT!(RARE)
The rear toe was set to specs. Good to go.

http://s676.photobucket.com/user/edwolanin/media/scan0002.jpg.html
This car is complete crap:http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=24evsid&s=5#.V9YmbhBrge0
It will pull to the LEFT: DANGER!
May be a BMW. NO caster OR camber adjustments.The ultimate driving machine.
Just set the toe and"Let 'er go".

This Jeep is happy,now. The toe was messed up and the caster and camber was OK. On this car, the Caster IS adjustable,not camber.
The caster changed because the toe was all wrong,that's all.
Every car is different with different specs and tolerances!

Mercedes is the absolute worst on the planet because the specs are very picky and caster and camber is adjustable! 1.5 hours for a Mercedes alignment.

Sorry,I cannot find a good example of an alignment with NO camber but a caster adjustment.
I saw a LOT of BS on the print outs that I saw on Bing.
There are a lot of ways to cheat on the print outs!
If the caster stays the same,B-4 and after a toe or camber adjustment,HE CHEATED!
He didn't re-sweep the caster measurement after those adjustments.

Bottom line:
If there is no camber adjustment,but caster adjustment,the technician may set the caster to offset the cross camber readings to CORRECT the pull caused by cross camber.
If it pulls to the right a little,that's OK. That could be road camber causing this(Rain flows to the right curb in the U.S.)
Never should a car pull or drift to the left,ever.(In the U.S.)
Trust me on this.
Usually,a .7* to.8* cross caster angle can offset a .5* cross camber problem.

Just pretend that camber is +.5* on the right front.If caster angle is the SAME,it will pull to the right.Guaranteed.
LF=0*,RF=.5 positive= pull to the right.(If caster angle is equal on both sides)
Forget toe angle,for now.
If no camber adjustment is possible,the technician MAY choose to correct a camber-caused pull by reducing the left side caster angle towards negative to compensate ,*****IF you are lucky.*****
Too many typos and I'm tired.
 

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I'll bug them about this at the place I'm going to next week.

They have a great reputation, and do stunning restoration work, but I'll still ask them (nicely) if they recheck the caster after the toe is set.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If the caster angle is the SAME B-4 and after the camber and toe adjustments,they CHEATED!
That post was for you anyway,Jim.
They WILL do a caster sweep after a toe set.
++IF the cross camber is wrong,ask them to compensate for that with a caster adjustment.++
It's not that difficult.
Your initial reading will be out of the window!!!!!!! You did a LOT of changing to your suspension.
Give them an hour+,it will be a physical work out for the poor sucker that tackles it.
It will come with a guarantee,unless the shop will not do that because of a modified suspension that is not OEM,Jim.
Mine has to go back because it pulls/goes to the right. Cross camber is out specs,but is NOT adjustable.Caster is.
Your new suspension will "Settle in" in a few months,anyway. It will be a do over.
Your front tires are larger than stock? ALL setting will be as OEM,except the front and rear toe in angles. Adding a bit more toe in to compensate for the extra rolling resistance,that's all.
You should be able to drive your car with your knee.
 

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Wow, lots of info, probably over my head but I'm still waking up, having coffee. I have a lifetime alignment package with firestone tires. I know my sig says I have Eibachs on my car but I never got around to installing them. When I do, I'll refer to this. Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Those "Lifetime" alignments may exclude modified suspension cars and trucks.
**** Read the contract.****

When I worked at Sears Automotive,there were a few of those contracts out there.
It mostly covers a re- alignment over a time period and MAY NOT be covered if you change the suspension in any way that affects the alignment of the car.
Height adjustment,new struts or springs,tie rods,ball joints and more.
We were not required to honor the lifetime agreement if the customer or some one other than Sears replaced parts that would affect the alignment angles.
In other words, NO FREE ALIGNMENT.

If you have one of those contracts and want another free alignment,don't say that you replaced some parts.
Think of it from their perspective.
If you change the alignment angles or ride height your self,you get another free alignment?
Sears usually wouldn't.
If I saw new parts on a car that had that contract,I would refuse to do it under the contract and charge the customer the normal price for that service.
 

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Ok, duly noted. I'll look into it and I can't say that I blame them if they object as the lowered cars require more effort.
 
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