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Front BBK upgrade and wheel bearing install: Step by step w/ pics

66842 Views 83 Replies 46 Participants Last post by  Restomod
Well, after sitting on the JDK BBK for years (since the first GB), I finally got around to installing them. I decided that while I was at it I'd also replace the wheel bearings. I haven't posted on CS that much lately, so I figured I'd take pics and actually contribute something for a change :) Heres the how to:

Jack the car up, place it on jack stands, and remove the front wheels.

Remove the grease cap by prying it off with a flat tipped screwdriver:

Remove the nut cover and the cotter pin which holds it in place. It may help to tap it out with a hammer:

Remove the nut:

Remove the outer bearing washer:

Remove the outer bearing:

Now, remove the hub assembly from the spindle. It may slide out by hand, or you may need to use a 3 jaw puller to get it off. My driver's side came out smooth, but my passenger side needed to be pulled:

Once you get the hub off, flip it over and remove the dust seal. It's in there pretty good. Place a block on the disc for some leverage and use a large screwdriver to pry it out:

After you get the dust seal off, remove the inner bearing:

Clean the inside of the hub thoroughly. There may be some metal shavings, so make sure you get it good and clean:
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Next, drive out the bearing races. You will notice that there are two notches in the hub for you to drive the races out. Tap the race out, alternating between the two notches every few taps. It's easiest to drive the outer bearing first, then the inner one:

Next, install your new bearing races. Use a bearing driver to get them in. As a backup, use a large socket. As a backup to that, use a punch. Be very careful if using a punch not to miss, and to work your way around the bearing little by little, making sure to keep it level:

Next, remove the brake disc from the hub. I like to do this after the bearings, as keeping them on there adds some stability to the hub. It's easiest to install the hub to the wheel to hold it in place while you remove the 4 bolts:

Take the hub off of the wheel, and give the disc a good jolt with a hammer to get it off the hub:

Now put the hub back on the wheel, and install the BBK adapter. Tighten the bolts to 45 ft/lbs:

Take the hub back off of the wheel, and install the wilwood disc. Snug up the bolts/nuts:

You can skip this step if you like, but I'm an anal bastard, so I did this. I measured from the inside of the bearing race to the outside of the disc, and adjusted the disc to make it equidistant from the hub (it doesn't really have all that much play):

Tighten the bolts to 180 in/lbs:

Now get the inside of the hub filled with a good amount of grease. Then pack the inner bearing with grease, and insert it into the race:
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Install the dust seal:

Pack the outer bearing and insert it into the hub:

We are now done with the hub. Clean your spindle up good, and install the BBK caliper adapter. You'll notice in the pic I installed the adapter in front of the dust cover (tweaking the cover back). I chose to keep the cover to help keep some of the crap off the disc. If you keep it, you will need to hammer it back to clear the brake disc. Use the caliper adapter for a line reference:

Install the hub onto the spindle. Get some extra grease on the outside of the outer bearing:

Install the bearing washer:

Install the nut:

Preload the bearing by tightening the nut to 22 ft/lbs. Then turn the disc a few turns in each direction:

Next, loosen the nut, then tighten as tight as you can get it by hand:

At this point you're supposed to check the bearing load with a special tool. I didn't have one. Check the TSRM from specifics.

Place the nut cover and cotter pin onto the spindle:

Put some grease on the inside of the grease cap, and drie it onto the hub:
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Install the Wilwood caliper on the adapter. Tighten to 30 ft/lbs:

Install the pads into the caliper:

Check the gap between the pads and disc. You'll notice in the above pic that The gap on the outside is larger than the gap on the inside. I needed to install shims to relocate the caliper so it was centered on the disc. Use a feeler gauge to measuer the gaps. Subtract the smaller gap from the larger gap, and divide by 2 to get your shim size. In my case, the outer gap measured .091, and inner gap was .008. .091-.008=.083. .083/2=.0415. So I picked up to 3/8" washers that were .0415" thick.

Next, install the 3AN to 1/8npt fitting onto the caliper:

Then install your brake line:

Voila! now you have a BBK!! :D

Bleed your new calipers using the two bleeder valves on the top, slap on your wheels, and go have some fun!
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Tire Shredder said:
probably the best write-up I have ever seen! perfect step by step instructions.

Just a suggestion that might help me (as I am looking forward to new wheel bearings) is list of all the parts required from the dealership to do the swap with part numbers. Also a list of tools might be handy too.

Thanks, Steve

Well, unfortunately I can't edit the posts, so I'll put them here:


Inner bearings: 90368-31067 x2
Outer bearings: 90368-19037-77 x2
Dust Seals: 90311-48001 x2

feeler gauges
flat screwdriver
torque wrench
breaker bar
30mm socket for the hub nut (I used 30mm, it was a hair loose. Nut may be 29mm, but the 30 worked fine for the low torque used on the nut)
varous hex head sockets
large 3 jaw puller (may be needed to remove hub from spindle)
digital calipers (optional)
bearing installer (optional)
seal installer (optional)
lots of rags/paper towels

All the hardware included with the JDK BBK

One important note, do not use the lock washers/washers included with the bolts to mount the caliper adapter to the hub. Use the bolts only, as they may interfere with the bolts that hold the disc onto the hub.
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Just an update, and to include one extra step. After rolling the kit for a few hundred miles, I developed a rattle when hitting bumps. When I removed everything for inspection, I found that the caliper adapter were loose, even though the bolts that hold it to the hub were still tight. Even though the adapters went on snug, they now had .015" clearance on one hole and .020" on the other(on one side, haven't done the other yet, which is loose also). The hub looked clean when I installed everything, but apparently they weren't, so I had to make some shims for the adapter.

So make sure you wire wheel off any rust/gunk that might be on the ears on the hub and check clearances and make shims as necessary.

Yue said:
Any1 know were i can Find some hub bearing packages, cause i need to replace mine are starting to hum! email me at [email protected]
I listed the part numbers for the bearings from Toyota. You can get them from your dealer. I would imagine that the parts stores should carry some after market ones.
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I have a question about the directionality of the rotors. When looking at the rotor, which way should the vents face? Looking at your pics, it looks like yours point towards the rear of the car (when turning in the forward direction, air would be pulled in from the center of the rotor and blown out from the cooling fins/vents at the outer edge of the rotor), or should they face forward (so when turning in the forward direction air is pulled from the outer edge of the rotor towards the center of the rotor)?????
You want them so they curve away from the direction of rotation, as it is a centrifugal pump. Turning them in the other direction would still cause the air to go from the center to the outside, however it is much less efficient at pumping the air when the vanes are pointing in the wrong direction. Wilwood rotors should come marked left and right.
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