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Discussion Starter #41
I have a question about the directionality of the rotors. When looking at the rotor, which way should the vents face? Looking at your pics, it looks like yours point towards the rear of the car (when turning in the forward direction, air would be pulled in from the center of the rotor and blown out from the cooling fins/vents at the outer edge of the rotor), or should they face forward (so when turning in the forward direction air is pulled from the outer edge of the rotor towards the center of the rotor)?????
You want them so they curve away from the direction of rotation, as it is a centrifugal pump. Turning them in the other direction would still cause the air to go from the center to the outside, however it is much less efficient at pumping the air when the vanes are pointing in the wrong direction. Wilwood rotors should come marked left and right.
 

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You want them so they curve away from the direction of rotation, as it is a centrifugal pump. Turning them in the other direction would still cause the air to go from the center to the outside, however it is much less efficient at pumping the air when the vanes are pointing in the wrong direction. Wilwood rotors should come marked left and right.
Hmm, maybe I didn't look at them close enough yet, but the directionallity sounds right. I just wanted to be sure :)
 

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I've got mine set up like in the pic with the air getting pulled through the center and out the end. So that's wrong?
 

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anyone have a rear BBK instalation with pictures?
i have issue with the brake line which seem too short...and another issue with bolt too long,need to cut to not touch the rotor..
that seem odd .
if anyone could help me
 

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Guido;

I just sent you a message on MSN...please measure the brake lines you have. There is no reason they should be too short; but as we all know mistakes do happen. In regards to the bolts connecting the hat to the rotor this would be the first time I'm hearing from anyone that that bolts were too long. I have a few sets here in stock, after I get back from my appointment I will double check to see if I have the same issue.

In regards to a write up so far there isn't one. Joseph (White_MK_2) will be installing them on his MK2 in the next couple of weeks and said he's going to do a write up for me/us.

I'm sorry for the hassles you're having my friend :(.
 

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Just FIY

If you have a RA65 lower arm and you have 33mm RCA's with the suspension dropped about 1.5 inch you are gonna need more than just a file. I had to take so much material that I'm now afraid it will strongly affect the structural stiffness of the entire arm. I have about 1/4 of metal left around the ball joint. I'm planning to weld a thick sheet of metal under the arm to prevent the end from opening and get some rigidity back.

After some reconsideration I should have pulled off the RCA's mesure my stuff and machine the RCA's so I wouldn't have had to remove that much material.



 

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No worry about running hard on it as the car might not run at all for at least 2 month (1UZ). As for cutting the RCA's I have acces to a machine shop. It should only take few minutes to modify.
 

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Whats the brake pedal travel like after going from single piston calipers to four piston? Just wondering coz im gona be doing a similar upgrade but using Brembos off a Evo VI & have heard of the brake pedal just going straight to the floor when changing to multi piston calipers & using the standard master cylinder in alot of cars
 

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just a little update concerning the rear

the oem rotor have an hole to adjust the e-brake system,so i make an hole in the same place and use the oem parts




like this i can adjust the e-brake system exactly like on the oem rotor
hope it help
 

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nice pics and explanation. question: can my 14" rims fit with the bigbrake and wats the part # for the caliper and bracket
 

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Great write up. Love the trick to get the rotors off of the hub assembly. Wish I tried that before I gave up replacing my rotors this weekend. Oh well, I'll try again next week now.
 

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I have a question about the directionality of the rotors. When looking at the rotor, which way should the vents face? Looking at your pics, it looks like yours point towards the rear of the car (when turning in the forward direction, air would be pulled in from the center of the rotor and blown out from the cooling fins/vents at the outer edge of the rotor), or should they face forward (so when turning in the forward direction air is pulled from the outer edge of the rotor towards the center of the rotor)?????
For the official record, assuming this is the front left wheel (which I can tell because I can see the tension rod), then this hub & rotor assembly IS setup correctly.

It is nigh on impossible to get them to work the other way (by "forcing in air from the outside in").

Remember your wheels and rotors are in motion. Think of centrifugal force. Remember the merry go round as a kid? The faster you went the harder it tried to fling you off, away from the axis of rotation? Same applies here, just think of turbo chargers, air goes INTO the middle, and comes OUT the Edges.

The rotor vanes if straight, doesn't matter. The rotor vanes if SWEPT need to sweep behind, or lag behind the hubs center when spun in the direction of normal rotation.

This picture below is correct for the front left of the car (and would be for the back left as well)
 

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I know I am bringing this thread back from the dead, but I have a Jim King BBK, both front and rear, en route from Raptor Racing. I have searched but cannot find any significant discussion of this kit and the OEM brake master. Since, as I understand it, total pad surface area has a direct impact on brake feel and effectiveness, I am wondering if anyone has any pad surface area data comparing the OEM pads to the Wilwood Dynalite pads. Also, if anyone has installed the MKIII brake master as part of the Jim King BBK upgrade, I would very much like to hear how that worked out. Any and all input is greatly appreciated.
 
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