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Discussion Starter #1
Current date Nov 6th 2009

As of this date, what I have found out:

The Current ball joints that seem to fit well (dont rattle have to be pressed in) are:

Moog k9085 or MOK9085
Beck Arnley 101-4140
Supreme / Mevotech mk9085

with regards too the mevotech i just fit this one its really Tight!!!!! had to freeze the joint and Heat up the control arm plus press it in i havent measured it but it seems IDENTICAL in every way too the toyota originals, i think its a hair bigger than the moog for fit.

Also Mevotech cross references their part numbers so other numbers that might fit are below but im not sure who manufactures them... Ill just put what is on the mevotech box below some is repetivie

alt#
Spi 505-1092
MQ FA1273
Ref K9085 -> Moog's Part Numer

Hope this helps people out, im in canada and now their are no more factory lower control arms so ball joints only is the only thing we can do...

Please Sticky This Thread

Coop
 

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STICKY please
 

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Mark, that link is not very definitive is it?
Only one part number by you and it's questionable that it even fits per your write up....
RC51 at least has PN and some cross ref.

On this thread I also found these

http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=5981&highlight=stumped+ball+joints&page=2

McQuay-Norris parts # FA1273. $38.99 each

Part# 48069-29065 lh conrtol arm w/bushing and ball joint list 166.00 cost
117.00
Part# 48068-29065 rh control arm w/bushing and ball joint list 166.00 cost
117.00

Measurements per Racefiend-later in the thread he stated these did not fit that well and were loose

Lower control arm hole: 1.7395-1.7400

Dana/Perfect circle BJ: 1.7440

TRW BJ: 1.7385 (I measured the larger of the two)

Original Toyota BJ: 1.7470
 

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Yeah you're missing my meaning of the info I posted Brian. I got ball joints from two different manufacturers (K9085 is a US aftermarket industry standard number for our ball joints) and got two different joints each time. What I was trying to point out was what the CORRECT size ball joint LOOKED like. If you look closely at the pictures you can see an obvious difference in the two joints. If you get a pair of ball joints that are the black colored ones with the slip fit boots...they won't fit. The OE style ones (the second ones pictured with wire type boot retainers, and the correct retaining circlip) are the only ones I've been able to confirm fit properly. I installed the two correct looking K9085 ball joints...they miked out the same as the ones I removed...and returned the black colored ones defective (boxed wrong). Hope that clarification helps bro. This is a problem with some ball joint manufacturer somewhere...pretty much all the ball joints come from one or two plants worldwide and are boxed separately from bulk shipments. I'd guess that someone shipped the wrong stuff stateside at some point in time (before boxing) which is causing the problem.
 

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The Current ball joints that seem to fit well (dont rattle have to be pressed in) are:

Moog k9085 or MOK9085
Beck Arnley 101-4140
Supreme / Mevotech mk9085
is this to say that they DO NOT need to pressed or DO? Also, i would be interested in a how to on ball joint replacement on the parts you have here. with that id say we can close the book on ball joint issues.

eh-em...seems i think i found the how to. http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=34169
 

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gotchya Mark.
 

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is this to say that they DO NOT need to pressed or DO? Also, i would be interested in a how to on ball joint replacement on the parts you have here. with that id say we can close the book on ball joint issues.

eh-em...seems i think i found the how to. http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=34169
the moog bj's do NOT have to be pressed in, er, on average. what i mean is when i installed these parts, the passenger side droped in and fit loose. i put 2 tack welds to secure it in place. the driver side oddly enough was tight fitting. i put it on the press to set it in but it really didnt need much pressure to go in.
 

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It's crazy...here we are 11 years later and ball joints are STILL an issue...luckily Beck Arnley and Mevotech still has our back!
 

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I ended up just buying entire Moog control arms for a Cressida because I was not going to fight with a press and fitment issues. Worked out great for me 👍
 
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I found a pair of Beck Arnley joints...shall see if they are right.


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IF RockAuto has the correct listing Cressida arms are pretty cheap!!

 

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Damn those are cheap!! Maybe I went the wrong direction.


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Mark, I just followed Tanya's lead...
 
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I ended up just buying entire Moog control arms for a Cressida because I was not going to fight with a press and fitment issues. Worked out great for me 👍
Okay, I just have to find out more about this.
I have heard over the years that the Celica versus Celica Supra front control arms are NOT the same. I believe that the strut bar mounting bolt holes don't quite match.

Tanya, when you speak, I listen. I just have to ask for the record. You have had Cressida front control arms fit on your Mark II? Did they measure the same and do the bushings match? Are the ball joints the same? Do the strut bars bolt right up?

I realize that there can be manufacturing tolerances that can cause problems, but if you, discoelk, and solid693 say they work, that's good enough for me. AND they come with bushings and ball joints? That really is a great deal.

Dale
 

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Yes the 86-88? Cressida control arms fit on the MA61 just fine and look identical. Other than a weird manufacturing hiccup on the driver's side one which required a little grinding. The bushings and everything are the same


The only thing I can tell you about Celica anything is that I was forced to use a Celica strut assembly as my Supra one was damaged beyond repair, the Celica strut assembly has a different kingpin position and will permanently screw up the alignment. It's still very drivable, but has an annoying wander to the left. It was an emergency so I had to do what I had to do
 
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