Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I've recently replaced my worn out old strut inserts with new KYB GR2 units. Since the replacement, I'm getting a knocking noise from both front struts whenever the car goes over a curb, pothole, manhole etc.

Ive narrowed it down to the strut inserts moving inside the casings. When I have the car jacked up, I can shake the wheel top to bottom (as you would checking a wheel bearing) and can feel AND see the strut moving under the cap on the top of the casing.

I've been told that the solution is to tighten those bad boys down GOOD, and I have, almost to a point where I'm scared to put any extra torque on the retainer. Regardless, I can still see the strut moving in relation to the casing.

Ive had them apart and there is nothing in the bottom of the strut interfering with the insert, yet when I put the KYB supplied retainer on, it shows at least three threads.

Is there an actual torque spec for the top retainer for the strut insert? Ive checked my 83 term and can't find one. <edit: found it, 90lb/ft. I'm a fair bit tighter than that already...>

Is there an accepted way to get these things to shut up? I can't imagine its normal, considering so many guys have used these.


Any help is appreciated...

Thanks

-Aaron
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Sounds like the top big nut on the strut housing (the gland nut) is tightening onto the housing before it fully can contact the top of the shock insert. When you installed the insert into the housing, then put on the gland nut, did you pull on the strut shaft to see if the insert was solidly tightened in the housing? If it felt loose then, it is way too loose. It is a bit of work, but I would take note of number thread showing on the gland nut right now, then remove the insert, put the gland nut on again without the insert, see if same number of threads showing. You may need to put a small spacer inside the housing at the bottom, to shim up the insert. Nothing should be moving, and that gland nut torque is probably around 70-80 ft/lbs. I have used large hardened washers under the inserts to shim them higher. They will get rusty and ugly.

Don L.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Don, last night i checked to make sure there was no "up and down" movement of the shock. I was able to tighten the nut up by hand to the point where all the play was taken up, before torquing it.

I look at it good and hard tonight and it seems that the insert is moving laterally inside the tube (side to side, almost rocking). I can actually feel it in the shaft by putting my fingers on the rod where it comes out of the nut. It is a definite lateral movement, so I was assume that the shock is

A- rocking at the bottom due to its shape
B- rocking at the top because of its shape in the nut

Im using the supplied KYB nut that fits the taper of the shock top, so I think scenario A is more likely.

I'm going to try and make a shim tomorrow to take up any play at the bottom and try again. These things are coming out easy now that they've been apart a few times ;)

Will keep you posted, thanks for the insight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Aaron,

I recently installed new front struts and top bearings and got knocking on one side. When I was putting it together I could not find the correct snug fit top cup that the strut fits into and used the one which is slightly larger. MISTAKE! The seemingly small amount of space in the cup allows the strut to move and it knocks/rattles on every road imperfection. The strut needs to be very snug in that top cup. I found the correct size cup and will be R&R ing it soon with hopes that the strut is not banged up but if it it will be assembled with some steel epoxy.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,160 Posts
You may want to look at the bottom of the insert and see if it has a conical taper inside. That's what locates it on center at the bottom. However if you can just grab them by hand and move them I doubt the gland nut is tightening done on the insert itself.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
You may want to look at the bottom of the insert and see if it has a conical taper inside. That's what locates it on center at the bottom. However if you can just grab them by hand and move them I doubt the gland nut is tightening done on the insert itself.
Totally agree with this. Even a poorly matched gland nut to insert, or odd shaped insert bottom to housing bottom should not move THAT much if the gland nut is tightened down. If gland nut is tightening down even a moderate amount, very little movement would occur. Certainly can happen, and I've had gland nuts back off a bit over time (I now use blue thread lock, Loctite), but it really sounds like you ran out of gland nut thread to tighten down, and need maybe a 1/8" spacer at the bottom. It's true the underside shape of the gland nut much match up well with the top of the insert, prevents the top of insert from having any lateral play. The bottom of the insert is less of a worry. I have used brass washers in the bottom, to minimize rust when spacing too. When needed larger spacers I have cut short sections of pipe, in a diameter that seats well with the bottom of the insert, but washers work well, and the softer metals can even shape a bit to match the insert base. You got this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,721 Posts
Strut inserts should be installed with hydraulic oil or antifreeze poured into the strut casing before adding the gland nut, to transfer the heat of the cycled insert to the casing to dissipate. Based on this, the spacers shouldn't rust.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,003 Posts
Are all the threads on the strut clean? The gland nuts that came with my KYB shocks threaded down a bit further than the ones I removed, and until I cleaned the threads on the strut, I couldn't thread them down "all the way".

- Jim
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top