Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i bought some wheel bearings that didnt go on good, it was very tight on the spindle for a unsealed bearing. the spindle was a bit rusty, but i dont think that was the cause of the problem. me and my friend sanded them down before, and it seemed fine to us. ended up stripping one spindle nut, and crossthreading the other becuase it coldnt catch good. but the same thing happened with the old bearings i took off when we tried and put them on the first time. and had to pry the inner one out and destroyed it which is why i bought new ones. never had problems like this, doin other bearings. i was wondering anyone had any similar problems. also if its a problem with the bearing, possible being the wrong one. i wanted to know what is the correct one if anyone knows, and where to get them. cause i dont want to run into that trouble again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,741 Posts
i did my front wheels bearings with no issues. as far as suppliers go, i went to advance auto parts. you could also try the dealer. im not sure what your exact problem is, since your post is confusing and i read it 3 times trying to figure out exactly what your talking about. maybe its just me though.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,112 Posts
Not just you. I was gonna ask him if he left in old races, maybe double stacked em?
 

·
Supra since '86
Joined
·
5,472 Posts
Chris, double stack the rear race in the front hub and it will alter the offset required for the wheels, by the width of the race.

An idea I had for altering offset.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Doesn't have anything to do with the races. If you double raced it, you wouldn't get the grease seal back on and I think that would make it obvious. I ran into this problem when I replaced mine a few weeks ago. I noticed when I did the first test fit that the hub assembly didn't want to seat all the way back on the spindle like it should. I didn't really notice until I tried to put the nut back on the spindle and it wouldn't reach the threads. As you have already noticed, it does the same thing with the older bearing as well. It appeared due to the taper of the spindle and the fact that most of the weight tends to make the hub droop or lean towards the front that the rear bearing wanted to bind slightly toward the back of the spindle. Make sure you have a light coat of grease on the spindle and work the hub back and forth slightly as you push the assembly up on to the spindle. It will fit back fine, you just have to work with it a bit to get it all the way back on.

-Richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Never Experienced this with my wheel bearings...........

I cut off the old race........pounded it out

and used the old race to pound the new one in........


And no problems since
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
697 Posts
Never Experienced this with my wheel bearings...........

I cut off the old race........pounded it out

and used the old race to pound the new one in........


And no problems since
What he said, but I didn't cut off the race. I just pounded them out. Like the others I can't quite understand your problem either. But since I was replacing the bearings anyways I wasn't worried about damaging them. But I was very careful not to nick the bearing walls and that was tedious and nerve racking. When installing the new ones I used the old race to pound in the new bearing bit by bit. I just worked my way around it over and over and over slowly working its way in. If I remember right the hardest part was getting it to seat on the bottom with out hitting the walls while doing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
sorry bout how i wrote, thought it was understandable. i pounded out the races before i put them in. but basically they were so tight in the spindle, it didnt go back far enought to catch the nut. and me and my friend had to force it to get a few threads to catch. so one side caught crossthread. the other side was so tight, few threads in couldnt even get it to turn with a racthet. and we know this is bad, but since we couldnt get it to turn no more from being so tight on the spindle. we hit it with a gun, and stripped a bit of the spindle and stripped the nut completely. the spindle was a bit rusty before we did them, but i dont think it was the problem.plus we sanded it down, so its suppose to be fine. and we had the same problems with the bearings that were on it before, we just didn force try to force it on so we didnt mess anything up at the time. arent they suppose to go on easy though? and i did press the new races in the hub before i put them bearings on. but arent you suppose to do that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,741 Posts
it sounds to me like you didnt pound the races in all the way. theres a ridge inside the hub that the race needs to sit flush with. you should be able to just slide the hub on the spindle with no issue. when i did it, i put the outer bearing on last, after the hub, followed by the washer, followed by the nut. should be able to thread on no issue. i greased the shit out of the hub and spindle as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
915 Posts
ever hear of a bearing heater? works wonders for slipping new bearings/races on old spindles. bearings/races are not meant to be hammered at all. it dramatically shortens the life of the bearing. I change out open race as well as closed race bearings on solid steel fan shafts at my job (anywhere from 1/8" all the way up to 6" shafts) and if I were ever used a hammer, I'd be looking for a new job...
Try googling a place near you that rents bearing heaters. The best ones are inductive.
That's your best bet on properly installing bearings & races (unless of course they slip right on)...
...and after you repair your spindle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,741 Posts
ever hear of a bearing heater? works wonders for slipping new bearings/races on old spindles. bearings/races are not meant to be hammered at all. it dramatically shortens the life of the bearing. I change out open race as well as closed race bearings on solid steel fan shafts at my job (anywhere from 1/8" all the way up to 6" shafts) and if I were ever used a hammer, I'd be looking for a new job...
Try googling a place near you that rents bearing heaters. The best ones are inductive.
That's your best bet on properly installing bearings & races (unless of course they slip right on)...
...and after you repair your spindle
its not needed for the front of these cars. you dont have to sit there bashing them, a few light taps and they sit in place, hell, you might be able to muscle them in if your strong enough.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?S=FA&P=7
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top