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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks for the add- my 84' wouldn't start for the first time in 8 years (sat idle for about a year and a half in the garage) Dumped some fuel in the intake and it fired for a bit. Jumped the AFM lead to listen for a fuel pump and heard nothing other than the relay click @ the kick panel. Pulled the tank/pump and dry tested the pump and it runs, tank was FULL of rust and junk anyway so it was needed. The pickup screen was junk and probably clogged, I'm assuming anyway. Anything else other than the fuel filter that I could be missing or need to test before putting this back together-
 

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Did you manually power the pump when testing, or did you still have it plugged into the car's harness? I'd be concerned that a critter ate some wires (depending on the garage). I'd try to rule out wiring while you're getting the rest of the fuel system cleaned up.

Also, any clue how much ethanol is in your gas? After that long, it's possibly gummed up in the lines or injectors.
 

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....it runs, but how does it sounds? In my experience, when our tanks have sat this long and rusted like that, the pump usually dies a horrible death too. Sounds like you need a new tank too, or time to dive into the giant abyss of the gas tank restoration! I just did one 2 years ago, did the POR15 kit. It certainly worked, but man was it a lot of work.
 

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I tested the pump out of the car, and this afternoon in the car. It works with the AFM jumper.....but I don't hear it cycle with the key. Need info on that. Either way I'll replace the pump while it's out, and the pickup screen is trashed. It's always had 93 octane, but it's not ethanol free, and it shows inside the tank. Fuel lines look clean so far, but who knows about upstream. Any ideas on not hearing the pump cycle with the key? All fuses are good and all EFI relays test good
 

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....it runs, but how does it sounds? In my experience, when our tanks have sat this long and rusted like that, the pump usually dies a horrible death too. Sounds like you need a new tank too, or time to dive into the giant abyss of the gas tank restoration! I just did one 2 years ago, did the POR15 kit. It certainly worked, but man was it a lot of work.
It only ran on the carb cleaner to check for spark. I cleaned the return line with vinegar, what looked like rust was more scale than anything..... thinking of trying a 13 gal vinegar bath and my 15* 2500 PSI pressure washer inside of the tank, I hate to say what could it hurt...but really. Also very open to info on whether the key cycle should make the pump try to prime... and if it's not, ideas of what to chase
14716
14717
 

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The pump doesn't turn on in these cars unless the AFM flap moves (or you jump the test connector). If your hanger looks like that the pump is shot inside. Spend the $80 and buy a Denso put and try and clean the tank out as best you can. I wouldn't use a pressure washer inside the tank unless you're crazy.
 

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The pump doesn't turn on in these cars unless the AFM flap moves (or you jump the test connector). If your hanger looks like that the pump is shot inside. Spend the $80 and buy a Denso put and try and clean the tank out as best you can. I wouldn't use a pressure washer inside the tank unless you're crazy.
So I learn, why not with the pressure washer? it's an NC car with a very solid tank and I was thinking it would get most of it easily.
 

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I wouldn't put water anywhere near the tank and there are baffles and reinforcements inside the tank that block access.
 

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It is quite the project to CLEAN out the gas tank. Multiple methods. Rocks and vinegar has been used.
NEVER store a gasoline-powered with ethanol (E-10) ..Use Ethanol FREE fuel for your gas-powered equipment. Get it at a marina or in the farm land areas. E-10 is fine for our cars, but SHIT in your power equipment! That stuff will eat the rubber parts of your fuel system. You have been warned.
 

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It is quite the project to CLEAN out the gas tank. Multiple methods. Rocks and vinegar has been used.
NEVER store a gasoline-powered with ethanol (E-10) ..Use Ethanol FREE fuel for your gas-powered equipment. Get it at a marina or in the farm land areas. E-10 is fine for our cars, but SHIT in your power equipment! That stuff will eat the rubber parts of your fuel system. You have been warned.
We use ethanol free fuel for all of our small engines only at home. I know it's bad qualities, but didn't think it affected large engines the same. I was wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So make sure that I'm tracking-
1) if the pump tests fine out and in the harness (with the afm jumper) then the EFI activation system is fine.
2) My tank condition and sediment are the likely cause of my lack of fuel delivery.
3) Fix the tank, replace the pump and assembly since it's out, change the fuel filter and?

Thanks in advance
 

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4) Drive.

Hopefully your filter kept everything north of it clean. Cleaning and balancing your injectors at some point wouldn't be a bad idea, but it will probably run ok after you fix the fuel supply.

Do not put rocks in your tank lol.

The POR15 resto kit came with some cleaners that did an amazing job of removing the rust before you apply the paint. Might as well just do the full thing though or it will just rust out again as your cadmium plating is obviously all gone at this point. Either find a tank that still has plating, or resto the tank is my recommendation.

Ethanol fuel I don't think kills our tanks under normal use, but I think it makes gas turn on you really quick. I wouldn't let a tank of gas with ethanol in it sit in a steel tank for more then a year, especially if the car sits outside.
 

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Ethanol fuel I don't think kills our tanks under normal use, but I think it makes gas turn on you really quick. I wouldn't let a tank of gas with ethanol in it sit in a steel tank for more then a year, especially if the car sits outside.
It's not Ethanol that rusts the tank. Ethanol is hygroscopic: It attracts water from air, especially in a humid climate. An Ethanol/Water mixture will settle in the bottom of the tank. The water will eventually cause rust in the tank.

Try to keep the tank filled up to minimize the amount of air in the tank.
If you can, use the lowest Ethanol containing grade of gas you can find.

In Vancouver, Premium gas from selected Shell and Chevron gas stations contain no Ethanol so I store my car with a full tank.
 

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Ethanol fuel I don't think kills our tanks under normal use, but I think it makes gas turn on you really quick. I wouldn't let a tank of gas with ethanol in it sit in a steel tank for more then a year, especially if the car sits outside.
There's also tho that short little rubber hose that connects between the fuel pump and the fuel line that stays submerged. I've had one of those go soft and burst. It has to be now a certain specification SAE 30R10 hose that is designed to be submerged in ethanol. When you get a replacement fuel pump, the hose supplied with it may or may not meet that specification so I'd recommend to ditch whatever comes with the pump unless it specifically says it meets the spec, and instead buy a length of the good stuff online.

I've been following for decades advice given me by an outboard engine mechanic who told me if I wasn't sure that I'd use a whole tank of fuel in one season, to only put in no more than I expected to use and then just add a gallon or two of fresh fuel each time I went out. Plus I add some fuel stabilizer tho he said as long as I bought Top Tier gasoline, it wasn't necessary. Keeping the walls of the tank wetted with the anti-corrosion additives is a good idea. So if you drive the car around often enough, once a month or so, its going to slosh the fuel around the tank and coat the walls. But if you let it sit for months or years at a time, then the chemicals evaporate or run down the sides of the tank eventually leaving the metal unprotected. Another benefit of regular interval driving, even just around the block a few times, is that it keeps the fuel "mixed" so that the ethanol and water don't separate and rust out the bottom of the tank too. And of course making sure to keep the tank sealed up good will help too (mine still makes that whooosh sound when I open it up even if its sat for months).
 

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Its cars that are sitting outside parked, for entire seasons that you really have to watch. Especially in humid climates. The Cadium in our tanks is largely gone or compromised at this point so it takes an extremely short amount of time to kill a tank now. Yes, any car that sits over winter should have a tank of premium with no ethanol in it ideally. For storing cars outside for longer periods, draining the tank is a good idea, via the drain plug on the bottom. However, if its a runner you want to be able to start up every month or so, thats not going to work. I've been doing the full tank thing, and trying to insure I use it up at least once every year or drain it out once and completely replace it with fresh stuff.
 

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It's a bit late in the season to recommend gasoline-powered equipment and cars storage..If our cars need to be stored any longer than a month, keep the gas tank full and ideally find ethanol-free gasoline. Our cars actually like to run on E-10 or 15. It does lower emissions, any way. In the US, ethanol % varies with the season. "Winter" gas has a higher % of ethanol.
Weed whackers, chain saws and other like equipment does NOT like E-15,when stored. Got a boat stored over the winter? Find E-free at a marina or in farm country.

I get mine 40 miles away in Arlington, WA.(Farm country).
 

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You'd think its just the non-attainment areas, but every time I go on a trip, every station in every little town across Texas and even Oklahoma has 10% ethanol. I looked for ethanol free gas some years ago but the closest station I found on the web, about a 150 mile round-trip, was always sold out every time I called, maybe next week they'd say. Eventually gave up. It was going to be a heck of a project anyway to load up a bunch of 5-gal gas cans in the truck and fetch enough to do any good. Plus it'd wind up being like $7 a gallon with the trip cost. Anyone who can find it reasonably close is lucky.
 

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