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is awesome
2,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found these guys the other day whilst searching for turbo rebuilders.

G-Pop Shop
22349 W War Eagle Rd
Springdale, AR 72764
Ph: 479-751-7966
Fax: 479-717-2211

I contacted them yesterday by email, around 5pm. I had a reply first thing this morning from Gerry, the owner, just like their phone message says; email them and they'll get back to you ASAP.

$65 for a balance (no need to send compressor or exhaust housing, just Center Housing Rotating Assembly (CHRA))

$375 for a Standard Rebuild

$395 for a High Performance Rebuild (includes a stepped-gap piston ring instead of the standard piston ring (if your turbo model has this option), as well as a heavy duty steel 360° thrust bearing instead of the 270° bronze thrust bearing.)

NOT Bad at all!!

Below is my email I sent them. And below that, their response. I *will* be sending them the new-to-me, but good condition CT-26 to balance, once I swap my 57 trim compressor wheel on it. Just going to swap the compressor housing and wheel onto the still good turbo. When *this one* (currently on the car) goes, I'll swap on the balanced spare, and send the current one back for a HP Rebuild.

<<<<<<<HERE IS THE KICKER>>>>>>>

12 Month Warranty!! Not even Driftmotion offers that. I need to find out what would void the warranty... like leaving the boost @ 18psi all day everyday (how I like it).

My Email that I sent:

I was curious what the cost to balance an upgraded CT-26 would be. It has a slightly larger .57 trim compressor wheel. I am also would like to know the inspection costs. I have a 57 trim ct-26 that had a large amount of shaft and was smoking very bad. I am concerned the turbine shaft may have scoring, and be unusable or not be able to be polished/reused. The compressor wheel has NOT made contact with the compressor housing. I also have a stock ct-26 that's in good shape. And was considering installing the rebuild kit myself, and perhaps swap the 57 trim wheel and housing onto it and then have you balance it.

I built my engine myself, so I'm familiar with mechanics, etc. However didn't know of there was a good reason to not install the rebuild kit myself, and have you do it instead.

That brings me to another question. Will you install a rebuild kit supplied by the customer?

Lastly, I have a question about warranty. Do your rebuilds cone with any type of warranty.

I have had poor luck with these 57 trim ct-26's. Seems like they only last about 12 months or less till they start smoking. This is with 10w-30 full synthetic, w/ 185* oil thermostat and an 11x6x1 1/2" oil cooler and stable oil temps between 205 & 230 depending on ambient. I have been thinking about getting a 11x11x1 1/2" oil cooler to keep my summer cruising oil temps down lower. Any thoughts?


I look forward to hearing back from you.

Rusty Tracey
The reply from, Gerry.

Thank you for your interest. We will answer your questions in order below:

1- We can balance you assy for you for $65.00+ return shipping

2-If your parts are good, you have a clean area to assemble and you have
your wheels rebalanced you should be able to rebuild this unit yourself.

3-All of our rebuilds come with a 12 month/unlimited mileage

4- Larger oil cooler will help, turbo timer too.

5- No, we only rebuild with our kits, this is the only way that we can
control the warranty

Let us know if you have any other questions or if you need anything else
or if you have any other questions. Thanks, Gerry

4,517 Posts
Your post is very timely... I was driving around Arkansas earlier today. let us know how happy you are with them when the work's done. I might have to sue someone like this later this year too!

is awesome
2,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sweet, glad I could help. I just sent this follow up response:

My follow up response:

Actually I did have another question or two.

1. My 57 trim compressor wheel has a small nick on the leading edge of one of the blades. This was from a defective Intake Air Temp sensor, and the actual thermistor just... broke off and I'm guessing hit the compressor (most likely at boost). It's maybe 1mm square or so. Are you able to receive picture attachments so see what I am talking about? I would like to know if this nick is uncorrectable (by perhaps permanantly changing the balance of the wheel). OR if it's possible to just leave it and rebalance the wheel?

2. If the .57 trim wheel cannot be reused, would you be able to source a replacement and install it for me at the time of inspection/balancing?

3. What actions, if any, would void the warranty that you offer. I will not be modifying the turbo once I receive it back from you. All bases are covered on my end, in terms of oiling, and cooling. 3" Aluminum Radiator, just bought the 11x11 oil cooler, am running 10w30 full synthetic, and have a turbo timer, set to 3 minutes, and the engine does NOT get used/abused prior to both oil & water temps reaching at least 180 deg. F. I like to drive the car at 18psi, which is about the threshold for the .57 trim CT-26. It'll push 21psi, but I know that after a point compressor efficiency drops, and the only tangible result from higher boost, is higher temps. Would every day driving with the turbo on 18psi void the warranty?

4. In your opinion, what oil temperature is satisfactory for turbo chargers as a maximum operating temp? Corky Bell says in Maximum Boost that maximum threshold prior to thermal breakdown for regular dino oil is about 230* F, and about 270* F. I only ask because I hate seeing my synthetic oil get close to 230*, even if Corky says "It's OK"

5. What steps are necessary prior to shipping a turbo to you for work (balancing/rebuilding etc)? Is there a form, or service request to fill out?

Thanks again for your prompt response, it inspires faith, shows professionalism, and has given me confidence to do business with your company. Look forward to my business in the immediate future.
Your advocate in turbos, Rusty Tracey, asking the hard questions to get you the Bottom Line!!

is awesome
2,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And for the record, on open wastegate the 57 trim will push 21 and peak 24... I know these sadistic engine abusing people... *shifty eyes & backs out of the room muttering* never did get to push it to redline in 5th. I was rudely interrupted... by sex lights. Lol

639 Posts
I never dealt with G pop shop, but wish you the best of luck with them. Just to throw another name out to anyone looking for quality turbo work. I always go to Evergreen turbo in Florida and they are awesome to deal with, know tons of information, and built my custom gt4088 turbo.

is awesome
2,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gerry's follow up response!

Hello again,

We will answer you in order again:

1-Send pictures

2- Yes

3- Turbo Warranty
We will repair or replace any part or turbo (original purchaser only)
found to be defective due to failure of material or workmanship for a
period of twelve months from date of invoice, with the exception that
performance applications are six months, not twelve months. This warranty
is limited to the turbocharger only, and does not include any parts or
components associated with, attached, or connected to the turbocharger
unit. This warranty does not cover incidental or consequential damages or
expenses of any kind.

This warranty does not apply to any turbo which has been subjected to oil
related problems, improper installation, foreign object damage, misuse,
neglect, accidents, any modifications made to the turbo by the purchaser,
or if the turbo has been disassembled by anyone other than the G-Pop Shop.

In order to warranty a part or turbo, it must be returned to us for
inspection in its "as is" condition (not cleaned or disassembled). In some
cases, we must forward the part or turbo to the manufacturer in order for
them to do their own inspection, which would be done by highly qualified
professionals. This isn't a long process, but does require a little time,
about a week to ten days.


Too often, in the event of malfunction of a turbocharged engine, the
turbocharger is immediately assumed to be at fault and is replaced.
Frequently, the replacement unit soon fails, finally prompting an
investigation into the real cause of the initial failure. Such a
sequence of events is frustrating as well as expensive.


Stringent quality control makes it highly unlikely that a turbocharger
could leave the factory, or our shop, incorrectly assembled, or not up
to specifications. A "bad" turbocharger would operate badly almost
from the moment of installation, but a turbocharger which has operated
successfully for a period of time, and then fails, almost invariably
fails because of a deficiency in the operation of the associated
engine systems. Years of actual experience with service failures
demonstrate the major cause of turbocharger failures to be faulty
lubrication systems. Abnormal wear in the bearings or seals results
from abrasive contaminants in the oil, or an insufficient supply of
oil. Other systems, such as fuel and ignition, can also play a part in
causing engine troubles in which turbocharger system malfunction is
originally suspected.

The overall objective of trouble-shooting is to find the cause of
trouble and take corrective action to prevent a recurrence. This
objective must be kept in mind even while determining whether anything
is actually wrong with the turbocharger system components, and just
what is wrong, to enable repairs.

Even perfectly operational turbocharger system components cannot
compensate for incorrect engine operating procedures, deficiencies in
the engine oil supply, oil drain, ignitions, air induction, fuel, or
exhaust systems, or for damaged internal engine components.

4- We defer to Corky here

5- Our turnaround time for standard rebuilds right now is +/-18 business
days. If you would like to ship the turbo to us for this service, please
enclose your contact information and send it to:

G-Pop Shop
22349 W War Eagle Rd
Springdale, AR 72764

We accept all major credit/debit cards, paypal, or postal money orders. If
you would like to call us with any questions the number is 479-751-7966.
If you decide to send your turbo to us we look forward to doing business
with you. Let us know if you need anything else, thank you.

Jim & Gerry, G-Pop Shop
Specializing in rebuilt and new turbos,
turbo upgrades, turbo rebuild kits, and turbo parts

is awesome
2,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My Reply:

Gerry attached you will find a small and very large picture of my nicked 57 trim compressor wheel. Also included is the compressor wheel on the turbo currently installed on my car. The secondary blades are slightly swept and have less stagger. I liked the first wheel (the one with a nick in it) much better. It spooled much harder, or rephrased, it hit/kicked in with a very pronounced punch.

1. Think this nicked wheel is salvageable/usable?
Garrett .57 Trim

I was wondering if you knew if the one that's not staggered as much and slightly swept (named 57_trim_update.jpg) was an updated/improved design. The only thing I could figure was that it was a slightly more efficient design (due to swept blades) and it contributed to a more smooth transition into building boost, where as the older/nicked blade (again I'm guessing) is a slightly less efficient design and has a pronounced transition into building boost.

Turbonetics .57 Trim

2. Which wheel is a better wheel? Is the "udpated/swept" wheel a more efficient wheel to use?

I apologize if I'm asking questions that you don't have answers to. I have limited access to other venues of hands-on tradecraft related turbocharger knowledge and experience.
Gerry's Response Bright & Early this morning:

1-Yes, the wheel is salvageable, no need for replacement on this one, just
rebalance, performance will not be sacrificed

1b- The wheel currently in you car is a Turbonetics design 57 trim, they
used the blade angle for faster boost build, the other wheel is the
original Garrett design it flows better at top end or in conjunction with
a ported shroud compressor housing.

2- depends on what you want: Low end = Turbonetics style, high end =
Garrett style, overall flow is almost the same and actually was rated the

We hope this helps. Thanks,

So that does it. It confirms my suspicions that my Garrett .57 trim wheel DOES hit/punch/boost harder (up top) and that the Turbonetics .57 trim wheel IS a more efficient design, and that's why it feels less punchy. Because it transitions into boost quicker and smoother (due to less blade stagger and the swept design).

Yay me. My intuition is 1 for 1!!
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