if this and the trim does well ill probably move onto making brand new fender flares for our cars
Thanks for the input! I believe it is press fitted on but I haven't taken apart the piece yet. I'm going to try to re design this piece so these problems don't happen in the future. I wanted to make it so that all the nubs on the end of clip are joined together but I don't think that would work without doing significant work to the cluster itself.For those who have not had the digital dashboard apart, this cable runs from the Vss (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and drives the odometer and trip odometer.
The Vss has an Infrared light and Infrared Sensor along with an encoder disk that creates a pulse train for the speedometer display.
I cannot guarantee that this is the cause of a very common problem with digital dashboards, but I strongly suspect that this cable not being anchored securely helps to cause the speedometer speed reading to jump at certain speeds. The following photos show the cable end-adapter clips broken off, and I think that the fingers interfering with the gear rotation cause the VSS to bounce. Having changed the speedometer cable and the right-angle transmission gear adapter with no improvement leads me to this conclusion.
I would be interested in either a new cable or cable adapters, but I am not sure how the adapters are fastened to the cable itself. It could be a press fit, but I think that it's molded onto the cable itself.
View attachment 22122
View attachment 22123
View attachment 22124
Broken clip
View attachment 22129
Broken clip. One can see that it is very close to the worm gear on the Vss assembly.
View attachment 22125
Actually touching in this view.
View attachment 22126
View attachment 22127
Odometer side of cable.
View attachment 22128
These parts are ALL broken by now.
View attachment 22130
Dale
Yea I figured, I only need about 10 orders to break even at 10 dollars a piece. I think I’ll stick to the oem style for now and if there are any problems down the road I’ll do a redesignThe tranny cable snaps in the VSS directly, then trough gear and cable, to the odometer. So it the cable has some running backlash instability, I think the effets on the VSS should not be 'major', I think.
That could be tested doing a run without the cable in place, eliminating the odometer, just to see if the VSS gained stability.
And honestly, I don't think you would have a long line of customers, as there is probably less than 10% of cars with the digital dash.
thanks! yea there might be some more people looking for those clips, I'm still gonna make these anyways because I already got about 5 people interested. I bet Nissans share similar clips, I think ill once these are done ill try selling some on eBay under all cars and see if that does well. Would be pretty cool to start making parts for multiple cars if there is a market.You weren't supposed to discourage him Jocelyn! We were supposed to tell him to make up a batch of about 100, enough to fix every surviving digi-dash Supra. Then for the next 30 years, every time somebody came on the forum looking for the solution, we'd point him to Fritz.
Though, I bet the part isn't limited to just Supras. Think of all the other cars that came with digital dash displays back in the 80s. Just like poor Fritz, Toyota would not likely have engineered a little plastic part like that specifically for just a handful of digital dash Supras. I'm sure they made the most profitable component based partly on design work they'd already done for other cars using subcomponents from suppliers they'd already sourced. Or even if the Supra came first, it wasn't the last. I wouldn't be surprised if the same little plastic cable ends weren't used in dozens of other digi-dash cars. Cable lengths probably different but the ends probably the same. You might do some research on other 80s/90s car forums and see if other digi-dash cars are having the same sort of issues.
I know it looks like that, but I also wanted to be realistic. I sure hope I'm wrong!You weren't supposed to discourage him Jocelyn!
I could make those masts in about 15 minutes! Crazy thing is that my dad actually has one of those in a box somewhere and it is literally brand new, I could do those for you guys if you want them. They would also not fade like the oem ones as I can add a uv protector. As for everything else that is probably out of my league although I could try a couple of things with a friends 3d printerI would suggest something that may be of interest for most Mk2 owners.
The power antenna ferrule.
This is the part that helps attach the power antenna mast to the body up at the top of of the body on the inside.
If you replace the antenna with a stock mast, you can reuse the ferrule on the original mast.
HOWEVER, obtaining a replacement Toyota antenna mast is extremely difficult now.
There is an aftermarket antenna that works very well, but it comes with several generic ferrules which do not match the profile of the rear quarter panel of the Supra.
Metra 44-PW22
View attachment 22135
Metra 44-PW22 with Generic Ferrule
There is a link to fitting this antenna to our car, but you have to modify the stock ferrule, which most people (at least me!) hate to do.
Need to fix my power antenna but cant find a Mast with cable replacement
View attachment 22136
Ferrule mounted on the Toyota Antenna
View attachment 22137
Stock Ferrule on the Metra Antenna. The ferrule sits too far up the mast. The bottom of the ferrule has to be clearanced to make it work.
It can be done, but grinding what is becoming a relatively rare part, offends me...
View attachment 22138
Gamble's modification to make the ferrule fit on the antenna mast. I did the same thing and it works, but a 3D printed ferrule could be scalloped to fit perfectly!
You can see that the ferrule is a two part assembly, with only the lower one requiring modification.
View attachment 22146
The chrome nut comes with the Antenna. It's not part of the ferrule.
3D printing the whole assembly would be great for people who, for whatever reason, do not have the ferrule at all (Perhaps in a foolish moment, getting rid of the the antenna entirely!...!...! Dear god, who doesn't love a power antenna!!!)
While on the topic, and project, 3D printing a custom base for this Metra antenna which holds the base in proper alignment would make a whole antenna installation package.
View attachment 22139
I made this up in aluminum, and it works pretty well. It needs a bit of adjustment of the slot on the vertical tab to allow more fore/aft adjustment.
View attachment 22140
The Toyota Antenna is held into left/right alignment with this simple L-bracket. It does not fit the Metra.
View attachment 22141
The stock mount can be bent to allow the correct alignment, but again, modifying the stock part just seems 'wrong'.
View attachment 22145
I think that 3D printing a 'finessed' version of this and coupling it with the modified ferrule would make a great turnkey package.
I could be off base, and I don't need one myself, but I think that the antenna is a part of the 80s feel of our car. Being able to keep one working is going to be more difficult as time goes by.
I think people may be interested.
I'd be curious to hear what everyone thinks, and also is this something that is buildable?
Dale
Agreed, the antenna ferrule thingys would probably sell like ice water in hell! I know I would buy one. Might want to give it a whirl, Fritz. Small part, I would imagine not a lot of work or material used. Let us know!I could make those masts in about 15 minutes! Crazy thing is that my dad actually has one of those in a box somewhere and it is literally brand new, I could do those for you guys if you want them. They would also not fade like the oem ones as I can add a uv protector. As for everything else that is probably out of my league although I could try a couple of things with a friends 3d printer
Great timing! I just molded it should be done in about 4 hoursAgreed, the antenna ferrule thingys would probably sell like ice water in hell! I know I would buy one. Might want to give it a whirl, Fritz. Small part, I would imagine not a lot of work or material used. Let us know!
Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk
exactly instead I used urethane, I always put some filler primer and clear coat before so it gets a nice finish. This piece I was able to polish with a fine rubbing compound since it was like newOkay, I have to know. How did you copy it?
I'm not about to do this sort of thing at my age, but I like to understand how these are done.
Did you make a latex mould of the part?
That is very nice looking.
Dale