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Discussion Starter #1
Due to prodding by members, I've made some improvements the na Supra simple mod to include - 'dry' carbon fiber front air dam and open element air filter heat shield.

While this mod won't necessarily boost hp, it will help to minimize heat soak and reduce intake air temperatures by directing outside air through the natural body holes...made to fit, no drilling required, minutes to install. Weight: 75 grams per piece.

Cured and ready to install:



Final test fitment:



Can others please confirm their model years have this hole location (this from an '82L):



I'm just waiting for a sunny day to take some underhood temperature readings. :cool:
 

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That little scoop is very very cool. I can check my 84 in the morning to see if it is the same if nobody else has done it yet. Any word on price or if you'll be selling the pieces separately? Love the work you are doing, keep it up.

Have you thought about doing some scientific testing on the thing? You can get a used dwyer magnahelic gauge for under 30 bucks on ebay. You can use it to test pressure differentials before/after cooling panels or anything at all really.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=113176
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_113177/article.html
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_113178/article.html

With the advent of gopros and such it would be very easy to do a driving datalog with the magnahelic and a temp gauge up near the cluster so you can get the speed also, and test the pressure/temp difference with/without those pieces installed. I've actually been wanting to get one myself to test out under tray designs to see if i'm hurting my cooling by making a bigger one.

Keep up the good work man, you're killin it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Price-wise, no word yet. Quality material is costly, particularly in R&D where much gets wasted. I'm just making one-offs for now until I get feedback regarding interest.

Good tips and website info... I'll try a manometer or magnehelic gauge to go along with my thermocoupler for testing. Thanks G, your input has definitely helped to shape these projects :thumbsup:
 

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There are actually a couple dwyer magnahelics for sale on craigslist locally but the scales are a little off for car use. I'll post up about it when i do end up getting one to play with though. Should be just nerdy enough to be interesting and give good data, but not so intense that it puts me to sleep or is out of my grasp. I really think cf fabrication is a great business to get into, you are doing what i would like to do eventually.

edit: trying not to hijack too badly here, but with a little research a few cars these days have differential pressure sensors these days(dpfe or Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR), i might nab one and a connector next time i'm at the junk yard for giggles. need to check what sort of scale these things work on though before deciding on which to go with, they might not work well enough for aero/cold air testing.
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/~rockledge/RangerPictureGallery/DPFE-Voltage-Test.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No worries, it's all relative and very informative. One doesn't actually don't need fancy equipment ...the 'seat-o-the-pants' meter is what counts, eh?

Coming home along the highway today I reached a long incline where my 5mge has to pull. I was driving minus the above as I had removed the heat shield and air dam to mould. It was like...where's the punch when I need it? It felt kinda flat, not the same peppy warrior. I know it makes a difference, I can clearly feel it, but it would be nice to have data to back it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A logical question would be why 'dry' carbon fiber and what exactly is 'dry' carbon fiber?

There is no clear definition of dry carbon fiber, but in practice, the process removes the excess resin leaving the bonded structure and involving extra steps and specialized materials...West Coast vs East Coast systems etc.

Dry carbon fiber is lighter and stronger than 'wet' cf or metal even, and will neither rust nor oxidize. Added up front cost, but the end result is a more durable part.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Addittionally the process can either be hot or cold. Hot process involves pre-impregnated fiber (prepreg) and heat moulding (autoclave) and therefore very expensive to produce. Cold process is triggered by a chemical reaction in the resin and then applied pressure often by vacuum bag method or press in mould - like the ones above.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No love for na? :hahano:

...ready for testing, probe engaged:




not a go-pro, but it'll do the trick (as long as it doesn't rain, lol)



I'll get some numbers up tomorrow...
 

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I think you'll probably find it does the opposite of what you think. If you look at most new cars they have flaps like this hang down in front of all 4 wheels. They are intended to direct air away from the area and the tire. They are actually really effective. I think a better product would be a cover that covers the entire gap between the bumper and radiator support to improve aero with a flap before the wheel. New cars do this stuff really well now with full underbody trays and such.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I know what you mean, I think the mudflap design could be improved, but it's actually not bad at venting



The idea is to direct air to the side and up through the natural body vents to feed the afm with cool air. I've been using the system for years.





This mod is simple no cutting involved

We got a break in the weather so I took it out for a test:

Outside temperature: 17C (62F)
Humidity: 94%
Wind speed: 11kmh

Hypothesis:

Air dam will direct cooler outside air to afm, while cf shield directs heat away from afm thereby reducing heat soak (excess engine heat entering intake).

Seat-of-pants meter says better performance will result.

Test Prediction:
I think you'll probably find it does the opposite of what you think.

Method:

1) stock 5mge MkII with K&N open element air filter, took base temperature reading
2) Minus cf heat shield and air dam, car was driven in city and on highway to normal operating temperatures
3) Stopped car at original location and immediately took afm intake temperature (readings 1 & 2)
4) Installed cf heat shield and air dam - one screw and two tie wraps (5 minutes maximum)
5) Continued mixed city and highway driving and returned to original location
6) Stopped car and immediately took afm intake temperature readings (3 & 4)

Results:


Test reading 1 minus heat shield and air dam



Test reading 2 minus heat shield and air dam



Test reading 3 with heat shied and air dam



Test reading 4 with heat shield and air dam



Summary:

A reduction of 10C (20% total temperature) at afm was realized after installation of a cf air dam and heat shield.

Conclusion:

Reduction in intake temperatures at afm provide a relative increase in performance :mk2_vroom

... any interest?
 

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Have you thought about doing some scientific testing on the thing?
...
I'd like to do more as results are promising... I think I found it's "sweet spot". Not certain if a ram-air cai would improve matters, the spring on the afm is delicate. Having done the afm mod to another unit, I actually prefer this simple add-on.

Any word on price or if you'll be selling the pieces separately?
Good question, that is why I am trying to gauge interest. It's cheaper to buy supplies in bulk, but the resin has a limited shelf life.

It can be also be made using less expensive materials and still maintain desired look and function, but won't be indestructible.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It can be also be made using less expensive materials and still maintain desired look and function, but won't be indestructible.
I should have said 'bulletproof', this is indestructible...'friendly' plastic



- can be reused over and over, coloured, non-toxic etc., neat stuff :thumbsup:
 

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I am toying with this CAI:
HOLES REQUIRED.
Runs into the stock upside down air box with a paper filter.
3" dryer ducting,4" wont fit.
Frame rail is in the way.
I bought a 3" to 3 1/2" silicone intercooler adapter and will stuff it in,when I get more time.

A sheet metal rectangle to fit the opening that feeds the 3" pipe would be great,but my sheet metal skills are poor.
Aluminum DUCT tape may take over.
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary_zps9hxn1exw.jpg.html][/URL]
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary_zpsfhvfwdgj.jpg.html][/URL]
My stock air box is now sealed at the top,but I miss the intake sound under WOT.

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary_11.jpg.html][/URL]
I'll open it back up for the Seattle wintertime,maybe.
If the air filter was completely sealed up,you would hardly hear it.I miss the sound.
 

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Yeah,I had those on my car a while back.
The Aero-modders called them VORTEX GENERATORS.
It creates a bubble around the wheel wells to deflect the air that would usually go into the tire/wheel well area.
They have been wind tunnel tested to reduce drag,I guess.

The underbody plastic covers are there for a reason.Mercedes and Audi have 'em.
Makes it a PITA to do suspension work or even an oil change on some cars.
If you have lost your plastic under cover,sorry guys.
It also helps with engine cooling besides your MPG'S.
 

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I like the fact this system is bolt-on and takes only 5 minutes to wake up those sleeping ponies :thumbsup:

...the friendly plastic version is fun. I changed an intake into a mirror surround and back within 15 minutes (the time it takes to boil water)
 

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Thanks Tom :thumbsup:

You know it's a labour of love and... 'it's all about the process'. Carbon fiber and friendly plastic could morph the car industry. Basically, anyone can make any body part in their own garage with basic tools.
 
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