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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found a guy to paint my car cheap. If I do all of the prep and supply everything, he can spray it for $125.00. I was wondering a few things from you guys.

  • Anyone know of a extremely "deep" black? I want it really, really black.
  • For the guys who have painted your cars, how much paint did you buy? I want enough to paint it, and have a little extra.
  • And recommendations for me as far as prep work goes?

Thanks a lot for the help, and input.
 

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Found a guy to paint my car cheap. If I do all of the prep and supply everything, he can spray it for $125.00. I was wondering a few things from you guys.
Honestly, good luck with a $125 pay job, honestly sounds super sketch to me, and unless he is family, or a family friend, which it doesn't sound like, I would just save up to get a real paint job, instead of getting results you're not happy with, and having to re-prep and paint later down the road. But, if you continue to go forward, I'll answer your questions.

  • Anyone know of a extremely "deep" black? I want it really, really black.
Sikkens deep black--end topic. Look it up. Not cheap though, but here is a car that convinced me to use it for my car:http://www.autoworksracing.com/AWRacing/Obsidian_gallery.htm pretty much black as it gets. If not, find a paint shop that mixes their own paint, they can just make a ready-mix pure black out of just black tint. It will be pure black, literally.
  • For the guys who have painted your cars, how much paint did you buy? I want enough to paint it, and have a little extra.
I bought two gallons, but am painting my engine bay, and all door jambs etc. I will probably have half a gallon left over. A gallon should do you just fine. But your painter really should be telling you how much paint he wants you to bring.

  • And recommendations for me as far as prep work goes?
Are you planning on priming the car before painting? I hope so, as that is really the only way it will turn out right, and look well, to answer questions on prep I need to know if you are priming before paint or just going to straight paint it without primer. Also are you painting your black car? If so, I'm sorry, because prepping for a black car is much, much harder then any other lighter color. Since its black, the prep work needs to be perfect because everything will show up.

Thanks a lot for the help, and input.
Let me know your other questions, and the answer to my questions, and I will finish here.
 

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Celica, I don't know how your schedule is, why not paint it yourself?

http://www.honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=20551341&postcount=11

EDIT- There are threads on cheap paint jobs here as well, we had someone do one recently after finding another guy's site online. If my memory is sharp the latest guy did not use a clear coat, used about 7 coats of paint though.

I want to do this to the car and truck one day. If I can ever find the space to try it I will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The $125.00 is just to shoot it on. I'm supplying everything, doing all of the body work, and prepping it all. All the $125.00 is for is to shoot my paint on the car. I'm not going to spend $200.00 total on it, I'm buying the best grade stuff I can get my hands on. That black is really nice. That's exactly what I'm looking for. Yes, I am planning to prime the entire car before the first drop of paint hits it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Aight Cody. I'm Roschell. Yea, I know what you mean about being pressed for time. I barely have time to work on my truck. She's coming along though.

I'm turning into a big DIYer so I'm real interested in painting them myself, but if time doesn't allow, I might end up in your shoes. Make sure we all get a look when it's done.

Is he painting only the outisde? I remember hearing that you need a special "flex" paint to bond to the plastic parts. Otherwise it'll flake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Aight Cody. I'm Roschell. Yea, I know what you mean about being pressed for time. I barely have time to work on my truck. She's coming along though.

I'm turning into a big DIYer so I'm real interested in painting them myself, but if time doesn't allow, I might end up in your shoes. Make sure we all get a look when it's done.

Is he painting only the outisde? I remember hearing that you need a special "flex" paint to bond to the plastic parts. Otherwise it'll flake.
Yeah, I'm getting just the outside painted. The engine bay cleans up nice and shiny, so do the door jambs. Yeah, you need a flex agent for plastic parts, or like you said, the paint will chip off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I didn't have much time to talk to him today. I caught him outside the shop on the way to work today, and stopped. I'm going to head over tomorrow and get more information from him. I don't mind paying to have the job done 100% if need be, but if I can sand it myself and save a buck, that's a extra buck for my pocket.
 

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Ok:
Before prime:
Take everything off obviously.
Do you have a d/a sander? and air compressor? I hope so as this is going to make your job A Lot, easier.
Do all body work, whatever needs to be done, door dings, etc.
Metal etch prime all bare metal spots, at least two coats. It prevents rust.
Make sure and have a few cans of sandable auto-primer spray paint to put over your mud or body work, because you don't want it absorbing moisture while you're doing the rest of the prep work.
Sand down the whole car, with 220, with the d/a.
Repeat sanding whole car with 320.
go over any spots you couldn't get to with the d/a sander with 220 by hand, you don't want your paint not sticking in the corners or creases or anything.
Metal etch prime all the spots you went threw to the metal while you were sanding to prevent rust.
You should be about ready to prime at this point. You want the primer really thick, as you are going to sand a lot of it off. I did four heavy coats. This needs to be done with a real paint gun, not a spray can.
Block sand everywhere with 220grit sandpaper dry, then 320.
Now you need to really check your work, make sure it's even and flat. I would honestly have the painter look at it if at all possible at this step. Because it may need to be primed again.
If it's all good, then wet sand with a hard block for wet sanding, with 400, and then 600. After that, it should be ready to paint.
Now, these are really, really basic instructions, and nothing really beats practice, and having someone checking your work. But if the painter is professional, he won't paint it if your prep work is not up to par.

When you talk to him tomorrow, or whenever, I'm sure he will be able to go more in detail, and he may have you do it different then I said, but I learned from the Best painter in the area, and when my car is done, it will show.
 

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if you have any low spots or high spots, rock dings,door dings. these will show up with dark paint. the darker the paint the more noticeable they will be. take your time with the prep work. too coarse of sandpaper will leave sanding scratches and the paint will look like crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not 100% I'll be doing this myself yet or not. I only have one ding on the entire car, and it's where I swung around with a seat, and hit the side.
 

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First read a couple of good books on paint and body work. Don't go by everything you read on the web (particularly what you read in forums as you haven't seen up close and personal the results the forum poster got from his method). I copied and pasted the supplies list below from the Vintage Mustang Forum showing the supplies for his DIY paint job. Granted he bought premium stuff, but DAMN it adds up fast. Sandpaper and masking materials added up over $300. Food for thought....

Item | Size |Qty. Needed | Cost | Cost Extended

Epoxy Primer | 1 liter | 4 | 47.00 | 188.00
Epoxy Acivator | 1 liter | 2 | 41.25 | 82.50
Etch Primer | 1 liter | 1 | 38.85 | 38.85
Etch Activator | 1 liter | 1 | 35.05 |35.05
Primer surfacer | 3.5 liter | 2 | 142.95 | 285.90
Primer hardner | 2.5 liter | 1 | 199.45 | 199.45
Primer sealer | 3.5 liter | 1 | 166.25 | 166.25
Sealer Acivator | 2.5 liter | 1 | 199.45 | 199.45
Basecoat | 1 gallon | 2 | 371.96 | 743.92
Basecoat reducer | 5 liter | 1 | 97.15 | 97.15
Clearcoat | 5 liter | 2 | 226.50 | 453.00
Clear Activator | 2.5 liter | 2 | 199.45 | 398.90
Clear reducer | 5 liter | 1 | 106.75 | 106.75
Rallye black | 1 liter | 2 | 76.40 | 152.80
Black activator | 1 liter | 1 | 79.78 | 79.78
POR 15 | 1 quart | 2 | 34.23 | 68.46
Rage Extreme | 1 gallon | 1 | 38.20 | 38.20
Metal to Metal | 1 quart | 1 | 24.61 | 24.61
Flexible filler | 1 quart | 1 | 34.40 | 34.40
Interior color | 1 quart | 1 | 96.55 | 96.55
220 grit sandpaper | 50 pk | 1 | 36.04 | 36.04
400 grit paper | 50 pk | 1 | 36.04 | 36.04
600 grit paper | 50 pk | 1 | 36.04 | 36.04
1200 grit paper | 50 pk | 1 | 27.48 | 27.48
2000 grit paper | 50 pk | 1 | 27.48 | 27.48
3M plastic sheet | roll | 1 | 40.69 | 40.69
Lacquer Thinner | 5 gallon | 1 | 35.70 | 35.70
3/4 inch tape-green | 1 roll | 15 | 2.95 | 44.25
White masking paper | 1 roll | 1 | 29.81 | 29.81
Grease and Wax clnr | 1 gallon | 1 | 43.20 | 43.20
Tack Cloth | sheet | 25 | 0.93 | 23.25
Guide Coat | Aeresol can | 6 | 3.00 | 18.00
Rubbing Compound | 1 qt | 1 | 17.68 | 17.68
Machine Glaze | 1 qt | 1 | 28.25 | 28.25
Hand glaze | 1 qt | 1 | 17.99 | 17.99

GRAND TOTAL $3,951.87 . That's almost 4k for just the materials to paint a car - no labor.
 

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If you deceide to do it yourself, when you prime it, if you use a grey or yellow primmer make sure you dust a light coat of red oxide this will aid in finding low and/or wavy spots in the panels. When i did this for a living i always primed and BLOCKED a veh at least twice depending on how flat and smooth you want it to be. Twice with 220 then once with 320 and once with 400 or 600 wet then paint. Repriming after each sanding other than the wet sanding. Especially if your painting it black this will ensure nice flat panels, because black shows every little ripple, wave and ding. Not sure where in ga you r, but in cumming ga there is a paint supply store called southern auto color, you MIGHT be able to get the material between 2-3k. Any questions fell free to pm me.
 

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First read a couple of good books on paint and body work. Don't go by everything you read on the web (particularly what you read in forums as you haven't seen up close and personal the results the forum poster got from his method). I copied and pasted the supplies list below from the Vintage Mustang Forum showing the supplies for his DIY paint job. Granted he bought premium stuff, but DAMN it adds up fast. Sandpaper and masking materials added up over $300. Food for thought....

Item | Size |Qty. Needed | Cost | Cost Extended

Epoxy Primer | 1 liter | 4 | 47.00 | 188.00
Epoxy Acivator | 1 liter | 2 | 41.25 | 82.50
Etch Primer | 1 liter | 1 | 38.85 | 38.85
Etch Activator | 1 liter | 1 | 35.05 |35.05
Primer surfacer | 3.5 liter | 2 | 142.95 | 285.90
Primer hardner | 2.5 liter | 1 | 199.45 | 199.45
Primer sealer | 3.5 liter | 1 | 166.25 | 166.25
Sealer Acivator | 2.5 liter | 1 | 199.45 | 199.45
Basecoat | 1 gallon | 2 | 371.96 | 743.92
Basecoat reducer | 5 liter | 1 | 97.15 | 97.15
Clearcoat | 5 liter | 2 | 226.50 | 453.00
Clear Activator | 2.5 liter | 2 | 199.45 | 398.90
Clear reducer | 5 liter | 1 | 106.75 | 106.75
Rallye black | 1 liter | 2 | 76.40 | 152.80
Black activator | 1 liter | 1 | 79.78 | 79.78
POR 15 | 1 quart | 2 | 34.23 | 68.46
Rage Extreme | 1 gallon | 1 | 38.20 | 38.20
Metal to Metal | 1 quart | 1 | 24.61 | 24.61
Flexible filler | 1 quart | 1 | 34.40 | 34.40
Interior color | 1 quart | 1 | 96.55 | 96.55
220 grit sandpaper | 50 pk | 1 | 36.04 | 36.04
400 grit paper | 50 pk | 1 | 36.04 | 36.04
600 grit paper | 50 pk | 1 | 36.04 | 36.04
1200 grit paper | 50 pk | 1 | 27.48 | 27.48
2000 grit paper | 50 pk | 1 | 27.48 | 27.48
3M plastic sheet | roll | 1 | 40.69 | 40.69
Lacquer Thinner | 5 gallon | 1 | 35.70 | 35.70
3/4 inch tape-green | 1 roll | 15 | 2.95 | 44.25
White masking paper | 1 roll | 1 | 29.81 | 29.81
Grease and Wax clnr | 1 gallon | 1 | 43.20 | 43.20
Tack Cloth | sheet | 25 | 0.93 | 23.25
Guide Coat | Aeresol can | 6 | 3.00 | 18.00
Rubbing Compound | 1 qt | 1 | 17.68 | 17.68
Machine Glaze | 1 qt | 1 | 28.25 | 28.25
Hand glaze | 1 qt | 1 | 17.99 | 17.99

GRAND TOTAL $3,951.87 . That's almost 4k for just the materials to paint a car - no labor.
^Exactly^

My family owns and operates a coalition repair and restoration business. My father started it over 30 years ago. I've been there since i was two weeks old, so 18 years if you count when i couldn't walk lol. To the point... We start pricing for the over all paint jobs at $10,000.

$10,000 gets you:
- The entire car completely dissembled(glass, handles, moldings, jams, etc etc)
- Once the car is prepped we spray it with a high solids primer.
- After the car sits for a month or two it's block sanded to perfection.
-Then the car is sprayed with PPG Envirobase waterbore basecoat.
-The car is cleared using the top of the PPG ''Glamor clear" IE the best possible shine, an a "water clear" meaning it isn't yellowish which throws the color match.
-We nip sand and polish the cars painstakingly to insure a flaw free finish.

(I skipped a few minor steps that aren't relevant to my point.)

If you noticed... that does not include body work, fabrication, rust repair or anything other than dis-assembly, assembly, and the painting process.

We do the best work. We're not the fastest or the slowest. We're not the cheapest or the most expensive but we are the best.

I read through different forums and ignore all the 18yo's painting their cars with a rattle can. However if you are committed enough to spend the money and buy only the best materials, why let whoever spray it? This is not at all a sales pitch. I'm just saying to you think about it cause what Phil wrote about materials is pretty accurate.

Do your research, find some different shops around you with top notch reputations. Then get estimates! Make them give you an estimate with a specific break down of everything they plan to do.

If you want the best or at the very least quality, find out if you can afford it. Because if you have a half decent eye for autobody/paint you aren't going to be satisfied with half an ass or less.

Hope thanks helps and wasn't too long winded.:thumbsup:

Be happy to answer another questions you have,
-Blaze-
 

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...not a show-car, don't worry about a show-car finish.

--billyM


This quote right here, is my philosophy behind learning to paint my cars myself. I am not interested in being the "talk" of the Supra meet, I just want to show up with everything being one color haha. Same goes for my truck, she gonna be put to work, I don't care how awesome the paint is, just want one color all over.
 
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