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I am going to try and get a napa gold filter # 1068 and then 5.5 to 6 quarts of Castrol 10W30 or Valvoline standard petroleum oil.
I like the wix #51085 over the wix/napa gold #51068.
Same gasket size and spin on threads but it's a lot bigger - more capacity and filtering media.

Eric, I am surprize to see you asking about oil filter for your car...
You wanted an original car so much, so stay with Toyota filters,
for all the good reasons !
Well the original Toyota filter with the cloth media that came with the car 26 years ago is no longer available.
If Toyota themselves cheapened the 'original' oil filter, I don't mind switching to an oil filter with more capacity and filtering media (for all the good reasons).

Ken
 

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I've read on this forum of people opening filter to inspect them,
and they still recommended OEM, even with the smaller size.
I fully understand the 'more filtering media' of the larger size units (as in the Toy's in the 80's) and the Wix & Napa, but if Toyota uses them on the new cars with even tighter manufacturing tolerances with longer warrenty periods, it should be very good for my Supra.
 

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I always get the larger of the 2 NAPA gold kinds. And without power steering, I can just grab the filter with my hands and gorilla it off of there. The part number listed on my receipt was 21186, if that means anything.
 

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Eric, my mechanic was dealing with an engine that kept blowing up filters, actually busting them open. They went through a few different ones and all broke open until they put a Toyota one on, it bludged but it didn't crack open. He said he'll always use them and has since that day. Good enough for me.
 

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somethinsomething...D1 is the toyota filter I have used on my 7m car for a while now. I think it's spec'd for the 1uz ls400 and such cars. I run the napa gold part number you referenced before on my celica and other supras, and would suggest it to anyone.

...and use castrol high mileage 10w30, it keeps those old valve seals soft.

--BillyM
 

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I use the stock Toyota filter on my 92,000 mile 5M and Castrol oil as well.

Today's oil worries me though because of the lack of zinc/phosphorus for older engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks for all the info guys.

Phil, I understand that concern and people were all up in arms about it on the 300/SRT forums that I visit a year ago when they phased out the type SM oils and people were stocking up like the end of the civilization was right around the corner. But it's my understanding that zinc/phosphorous in higher amounts is really only vital cars with flat tappet camshafts and solid lifters versus most modern setups with hydraulic lifters. Supposedly the new additive packages compensate for lower zinc levels...well that's what they tell us anyway. It's also mentioned that short change intervals around 3000 miles make worrying about things like this almost pointless anyway.

Anyone ever do an oil analysis for our engines? They are only like $50.
 

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does not matter ... change oil on regular basis as well as filter and things will be fine... no oil is better than any other, that includes amsoil, mobil 1 castrol quaker state etc. etc. ALL MARKET HYPE for most cases. sure some oils have different specs...BUT if they meet OEM specs they all work well and will protect your motor...key is change oil/filter as specified and not try to go extended periods. the same above comments apply to gas and both have been proven to many times to count. Oh, I have 375,000 on original motor that has never been apart and uses minimal oil (expected with this many miles) and only needs valve guides to stop some smoking and I have used quaker state, castrol, and vavoline its whole life(QS first 250k exclusively) with changes every 3k until 275k then went to every 5k oil changes. I use ac/delco, stp, and toyo filters, whichever is cheapest......my opinionated comments and personal experience is my basis for my comments.
 

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Again, what does Toyota know about filters? I will be at a Toyota dealer tomorrow and will ask about them, maybe I'll buy a couple.
Oh I don't know... Perhaps that they've been around for along time, spent MILLIONS on engine Research and Development, and have a filter that's designed specifically to meet the pressure/viscosity/and filtration requirements of said engines.

From www.tundrasolutions.com

Factory filters can keep a Tacoma engine going for 1,000,000 miles
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/957-1.jpg

Factory filters have a thicker and heavier filter shell


that won't blow off and ruin the engine (Purolator)


Factory filters also have a "O"-ring seal that won't stick to the engine block
and cause a new oil filter to leak oil

Factory filters even have more threads to help hold the filter
more securely to the engine.

But none of this matters to many younger owners because they find the black factory filters unacceptably unexciting and boring. They require a filter to be brightly colored and have cool sounding name like "Pure-One" or "TRD"​

That's enough for me.

The ONLY other filter I would EVER run is the AMSOIL setup... but I'm cheap.

Choose whatever filter you want... I know which one I'M using... :duh:

somethinsomething...D1 is the toyota filter I have used on my 7m car for a while now. I think it's spec'd for the 1uz ls400 and such cars. I run the napa gold part number you referenced before on my celica and other supras, and would suggest it to anyone.

...and use castrol high mileage 10w30, it keeps those old valve seals soft.

--BillyM
The 90915-YZZD1 is the smaller "correct" filter for 7M's and 2J's(?) However I run the 90915-YZZD3 because it has about 20% more capacity as well as 20% more filtration surface. OH yeah I run DUAL filters in Parallel, so I have that's right 2x 1.2 (stock filtration surface) = approx 2.5x the amount of filtration surface and also added capacity.

Between my oil cooler (on my 7M-GTE) the oil lines, oil thermostat, and 2 filters I have a 9qt Dry fill / 7.5 -> 8 qt wet re-fill system. I switched from Full Synthetic (of whatever brand I could get my hands on) to Castrol GTX 5W-30 (for the turbo) and I change it every 3000 miles. I switched to regular oil because I was pretty much wasting money and not reaping the benefits of the Synthetic oil because I'm an oil changing NAZI!! Seig Heil :salute:

YZZD1 in the middle YZZD3 on the right
 

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if you ask me, any oil filter brand is bound to have a failure at some point. it happens. when someone posts up about a toyota filter blowing up, then what? ive run a crapload of filters over the years on many different cars, and the only filters that straight up feel super cheap that id never run again, would be fram and stp. the rest, no complaints. ill use whats good and convenient, and even on sale. asking a forum what kinda oil filter and filter to run is like asking what is the best type of candy. everyones choice is better in their own eyes for whatever reason. my suggestion to you, is try a few, cut them open after you use them, look at the old oil, etc, and make your OWN decision what works for you.
 

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Yeah the D3 is a direct spin on for the D1 no problems, it's merely a tad bit longer. (about an inch or so) James/Mark @ Vancouver Toyota told me about the D3 after I asked if there was a higher capacity filter that was internally the same as the D1.

If a Toyota filter explodes, well then it explodes. Personally I used to use the Purolate Pure One filters because of their super fine micron filtration claim. I agree statistically under certain conditions a filter will inevitably explode, or there will eventually be a failure.

Can someone that's not as confused about hydraulics at the moment clarify if:

40psi @ 1 filters' filtration surface area = 40psi, however if you double the surface area (2x filters) would that halve the PSI exerted over that filtration area? Or would it simply increase the area over which 40 psi is exerted... I'm so confused. *goes to google it*
 

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Phil, I understand that concern and people were all up in arms about it on the 300/SRT forums that I visit a year ago when they phased out the type SM oils and people were stocking up like the end of the civilization was right around the corner. But it's my understanding that zinc/phosphorous in higher amounts is really only vital cars with flat tappet camshafts and solid lifters versus most modern setups with hydraulic lifters. Supposedly the new additive packages compensate for lower zinc levels...well that's what they tell us anyway. It's also mentioned that short change intervals around 3000 miles make worrying about things like this almost pointless anyway.
Even though I have roller cams (changed from flat tappet) in both my Oldsmobile motors - I have heard enough horror stories about camshaft failure for these very reasons you state. For my Silver Trans Am with the race spec motor I use Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Oil (synthetic, 15W50). With a K & N oil filter the oil change is almost $100 (7 quart oil pan) :eekfacepalm:

I think at the end of the day - for a stock 5M which will see pleasure miles - an OEM filter should be fine.
 

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I like the STP filters when i dont get the toyo filters .. I have found that the STP filters give the best Oil pressure .. SO that counts in my book ..
 

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Can someone that's not as confused about hydraulics at the moment clarify if:
40psi @ 1 filters' filtration surface area = 40psi, however if you double the surface area (2x filters) would that halve the PSI exerted over that filtration area? Or would it simply increase the area over which 40 psi is exerted...
40 PSI will be sensed on all external parts of all the filters ( 1 or 2 in your case)
The running pressure will affect the casing, and the flow will affect the filtering media, depending of cleaniess.
A filter will have ideally 0 PSI loss, but it always have some delta P. The dirtier it gets , the more pressure loss across the input vs output.
When it get dirty, and the pump put up the 40 PSI, and the filter is so dirty that it restrict the flow, then there is a delta PSI on the media, which can tear.
 

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40 PSI will be sensed on all external parts of all the filters ( 1 or 2 in your case)
The running pressure will affect the casing, and the flow will affect the filtering media, depending of cleaniess.
A filter will have ideally 0 PSI loss, but it always have some delta P. The dirtier it gets , the more pressure loss across the input vs output.
When it get dirty, and the pump put up the 40 PSI, and the filter is so dirty that it restrict the flow, then there is a delta PSI on the media, which can tear.
Ahh I see...

Ideally there'd be 40psi on the dirty AND clean sides of the filter ( 0 delta in P), however realistically there's a pressure drop of a certain amount ( delta in P from restriction of the filtration media).
 
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