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Going to change the oil

12K views 47 replies 23 participants last post by  Eric 
#1 ·
I did search some of the million topics.

I am going to try and get a napa gold filter # 1068 and then 5.5 to 6 quarts of Castrol 10W30 or Valvoline standard petroleum oil. Sound good??? I appreciate any thoughts. Is the filter hard to get at on these - never done one myself on a 5mge.

Eric
 
#34 ·
if you ask me, any oil filter brand is bound to have a failure at some point. it happens. when someone posts up about a toyota filter blowing up, then what? ive run a crapload of filters over the years on many different cars, and the only filters that straight up feel super cheap that id never run again, would be fram and stp. the rest, no complaints. ill use whats good and convenient, and even on sale. asking a forum what kinda oil filter and filter to run is like asking what is the best type of candy. everyones choice is better in their own eyes for whatever reason. my suggestion to you, is try a few, cut them open after you use them, look at the old oil, etc, and make your OWN decision what works for you.
 
#36 ·
Yeah the D3 is a direct spin on for the D1 no problems, it's merely a tad bit longer. (about an inch or so) James/Mark @ Vancouver Toyota told me about the D3 after I asked if there was a higher capacity filter that was internally the same as the D1.

If a Toyota filter explodes, well then it explodes. Personally I used to use the Purolate Pure One filters because of their super fine micron filtration claim. I agree statistically under certain conditions a filter will inevitably explode, or there will eventually be a failure.

Can someone that's not as confused about hydraulics at the moment clarify if:

40psi @ 1 filters' filtration surface area = 40psi, however if you double the surface area (2x filters) would that halve the PSI exerted over that filtration area? Or would it simply increase the area over which 40 psi is exerted... I'm so confused. *goes to google it*
 
#39 ·
Can someone that's not as confused about hydraulics at the moment clarify if:
40psi @ 1 filters' filtration surface area = 40psi, however if you double the surface area (2x filters) would that halve the PSI exerted over that filtration area? Or would it simply increase the area over which 40 psi is exerted...
40 PSI will be sensed on all external parts of all the filters ( 1 or 2 in your case)
The running pressure will affect the casing, and the flow will affect the filtering media, depending of cleaniess.
A filter will have ideally 0 PSI loss, but it always have some delta P. The dirtier it gets , the more pressure loss across the input vs output.
When it get dirty, and the pump put up the 40 PSI, and the filter is so dirty that it restrict the flow, then there is a delta PSI on the media, which can tear.
 
#42 ·
hmmm I've seen comparisons that say the Toyota filter is not very good at all actually. They are made in thailand now, and quality is not as high.

Here is a thread with a good post from Jdub at supramania. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 It's worth registering on this forum.

here's some common filters dissected:
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/general-discussion/31190-oil-filters-dissected.html#post373286

and here's the old classic!

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/reference.html

the above study simplified a bit...what to avoid and what to buy!!!

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/opinions.html

I don't use toyota filters anymore after reading these things. Toyota filter has several short comings:

- End caps of pleats are dipped in glue to prevent oil from traveling around the material instead of metal

- the anti-drainback valve is integral to the spring plate. The only thing creating a seal is the pressure of the leave spring against the center tube (very narrow, no real chance of this ever seating properly.

-filter media is courser than the rest (the fibres themselves) meaning efficiency (ability to flow) will become hampered when the filter is near clogging.

If price is not an issue, the best full-flow filter on the market is most likely the amsoil EAO (this is completely different than the by-pass filter setup). These are normal style filters. They've been turning back awesome oil analysis results from others. But, they are pricey. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx Best bang for the buck is probably a wix filter. I've seen good results from the pure one filter and they appear to be constructed well...not sure what's up with that guy's issue with his tacoma.

now, the toyota filter probably does the job just fine and aside from the garbage fram filters...comparing filters is splitting hairs, they'll all keep the car alive. However, when a discussion comes up about what are the best filters and oil to use....it inherently requires you to split hairs :)
 
#43 ·
hmmm I've seen comparisons that say the Toyota filter is not very good at all actually. They are made in thailand now, and quality is not as high.

Here is a thread with a good post from Jdub at supramania. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 It's worth registering on this forum.

here's some common filters dissected:
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/general-discussion/31190-oil-filters-dissected.html#post373286

and here's another!

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/reference.html

the above study simplified a bit...what to avoid and what to buy!!!

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/opinions.html

I don't use toyota filters anymore after reading these things. Toyota filter has several short comings:

- End caps of pleats are dipped in glue to prevent oil from traveling around the material instead of metal

- the anti-drainback valve is integral to the spring plate. The only thing creating a seal is the pressure of the leave spring against the center tube (very narrow, no real chance of this ever seating properly.

-filter media is courser than the rest (the fibres themselves) meaning efficiency (ability to flow) will become hampered when the filter is near clogging.

-uses black nitrile anti-drainback valve (silicone is better)

If price is not an issue, the best full-flow filter on the market is most likely the amsoil EAO (this is completely different than the by-pass filter setup). These are normal style filters. They've been turning back awesome oil analysis results from others. But, they are pricey. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx Best bang for the buck is probably a wix filter. I've seen good results from the pure one filter and they appear to be constructed well...not sure what's up with that guy's issue with his tacoma.

now, the toyota filter probably does the job just fine and aside from the garbage frame filter...comparing filters is splitting hairs, they'll all keep the car alive. However, when a discussion comes up about what are the best filters and oil to use....it inherently requires you to split hairs :)
Interesting read I'll definitely put it on my "To Read" list. I haven't done any super recent reading on the matter, interested to find out recent developments. Also it wasn't an issue with a Tacoma, it was with a 7M-GTE powered MKIII that had the Purolator Pure-One filter explode.
 
#46 ·
Well I finally got this done today. 6 quarts of Castrol GTX high mileage 10w30 and a basic Purolater filter for $25 at Pep Boys. I had to make a special trip to get a Wix filter 51085 at a Smythe store. The oil came out pretty black, ended up taking a Toyota filter off the car. When I examined it internally it looked EXACTLY like the basic Purolater I got with the Pep Boys special that I'll probably just toss. I put in just about 5.5 quarts and I'm at about 3/16" above the full line. Here's a couple pics I took when I was out warming up the oil to drain.



 
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