[SupRadical]

Just a place to post all that I've done to my '83.

I did get lucky (and was patient) in finding one locally worth restoring.

It has 78k origninal miles and was always covered (but think under an outdoor shed with a tarp for the last few years, not a nice enclosed garage.) Hardly ANY rust and none in the usual places whatsoever! (Except the gas tank...)

Anyway, as a kid I always wanted one of these it just took me until middle age to get one.

I love restoring cars although I admit I do like a good foundation to start with. This will be my second one that I've done a lot to in order to "bring it back." My other is a 1985 4Runner.

To me, there's nothing better than the analog nature of these cars and their looks!

 

[RedP85]

Is that the car that does (not!) need restauration?

 

['82supra]

To me, there's nothing better than the analog nature of these cars and their looks!

No denying, the car 'brings you back' every time you step in or even look at it. Their analogue nature is often overlooked especially when equipped with a digital dash and trip computer (L-type). Miles ahead of its time!

 

[SupRadical]

When I first picked it up, bringing it the 20 miles home, I had debated trailering it and my dad has a trailer (he's a car guy too...runs in the family.) I opted not to since I'd test driven it a few weeks before...briefly. And so, that proved to be a huge mistake. Suffice to say I got it home with my dad behind me with his hazards on. It was bucking like crazy and I had an inkling as to what that was.

I knew it had been stored for a few years (at least.) I could tell from some comments the seller made as well as it's overall condition. Day 1 I yanked the fuel pump (which I admit I was very happy was external on the '83) and immediately saw the inlet to the fuel pump clogged with rust chips. I blew it out with the compressor, put it back on and it fired back up and ran but I knew it would happen again and especially anytime the gas got stirred up. Plus, it's not good for the car even with the fuel pump inlet filter and the one at the engine. It would be my first order of business.

So how great is it that these have a drain plug? Easy to steal gas for sure but hey, when you need to drain it it's great. So out came the orangish fluid and out came the tank.

Full disclaimer; my dad also has a car lift so that's pretty sweet for a lot of jobs on low car like the Supra.

Whatever filter comes on the fuel inlet basket was long gone and the fuel sensor that turns the low fuel light on was also corroded through the wire.

I was able to get the tank cleaned at a local radiator shop and no holes at all, just a bunch of sludge. The guy there told me I should line it and so I used Caswell tank liner (two kits) to do it. It's an epoxy-based liner and I did several coats over a few days, rolling it around and around and trying to look in with mirrors and all to ensure I got all the baffles covered. I let it cure a solid week and a half before adding any fuel. After reading more online I'm not sure if I did the right thing as some of these liners can fail although I tired to pick the best one via my research. I could have left it unlined but the radiator guy said his process would have removed all of the original zinc coating etc. and it could rust easy again. So we shall see. I can always peer in there through the trunk access and / or check the filter on the fuel pump inlet. If it fails I can strip it out again but I'm hoping it won't. I have a buddy going on 20-years with an older epoxy-based liner and the Caswell is supposedly even formulated for the newer fuels / ethanol, etc. I plan to only use Shell 91 anyway in this car which is the least ethanol you can get in most places.

I was able to find most of the rubber gaskets at the local Toy dealer and all new stainless screws.I hotsy'd the inlet tube and cleaned all everything else with wire brushes. It was all just surface. I bought a new sending unit that was in great shape (ebay...not cheap), I did 3-4 coats of bedliner on the outside and it looks great!

Putting it back in was pretty easy overall once you have the filler tube lined up. I used all new Gates Defender EFI rated hose and the special EFI hose clamps. A new fuel pump as well. I did not put a filter on the inlet tube in the tank because you can't get those original style ones anymore and because my fuel pump has a filter at the inlet side.

Finally, I replaced the fuel filter up at the engine to ensure that was fully new and clean since I don't know how much "rust gas" had been run through the thing or got past the fuel pump filter. This was not as hard as some had made it seem and there were good tips on this forum for that. I would say it was MUCH easier on the lift and approaching it from behind the front left tire.

Anyway, all said and done I put a couple gallons in and cranked it. It had to pressurize but I'd say within 20 cranks it came to life and no more studdering at all!

Job one was done and it was running great.If you add in the sending unit I bought though this alone was around a $600 project.

 

[SupRadical]

No denying, the car 'brings you back' every time you step in or even look at it. Their analogue nature is often overlooked especially when equipped with a digital dash and trip computer (L-type). Miles ahead of its time!

Well, like a lot of the 80's, tech was there and it was still fun! It was a good mix of analog and tech. We still were in charge of tech whereas these days I'm not so sure anymore.

But ya, I love having to actually "drive" it.

 

[SupRadical]

Is that the car that does (not!) need restauration?

Well...remember I have 6 months and about $8k in it after the initial purchase price (and a few hundred hours and late nights too.)

 

[supkar]

There is a yellow plug next to the AFM that you can jump to start the fuel pump working when the ignition is on. It won't take 20 cranks to get her running. Good to know if you ever run out of gas or pull the fuel tank.
Nice looking car. Int pics would be nice.

 

[SupRadical]

There is a yellow plug next to the AFM that you can jump to start the fuel pump working when the ignition is on. It won't take 20 cranks to get her running. Good to know if you ever run out of gas or pull the fuel tank.
Nice looking car. Int pics would be nice.

Yes that is GREAT to know! I looked just now at the air flow meter up there found it. Yellow plug off the same wiring that goes to the AFM right? So you just jump it off the battery to that via some wire? Thank you! I had thought about putting a spare battery underneath and jumping it that way to get it to pressurize but decided to just crank it. It worked but I like your method for next time...which hopefully won't be anytime soon.

I was surprised when I first got it that I didn't hear it buzzing down there when I turned the key on before I cranked it. Most cars from that era that are fuel injected do that to pressurize. I wonder why Toyota didn't do that? Even if it sits a week or two it will take a few more cranks to start than normal to get it going because of this. It perplexes me a bit why they wired it to pump only when it's cranking.

Interior pics coming...

 

[RedP85]

The Fuel pump check connector:
Just jump the 2 contacts together with a piece of wire, paper clip etc..
Fuel pump running only when:
-crankin
-air flapper moves to let air in.

Could you give a list of hardware you replaced for 8K, so people get an idea want you get for that amount of $

 

[supkar]

Red is right. Use a paper clip to complete the circuit. With key on you should hear the pump whirring away. Do NOT jump from the battery. Just ask members before you experiment to avoid damage to the elect. system.
If the pump runs it ON position it could cause damage. I saw happen to a Ford pickup once.

 

[SupRadical]

Red is right. Use a paper clip to complete the circuit. With key on you should hear the pump whirring away. Do NOT jump from the battery. Just ask members before you experiment to avoid damage to the elect. system.
If the pump runs it ON position it could cause damage. I saw happen to a Ford pickup once.

Thank you all! Okay so yes makes sense...jump between the circuit. Cool! I'll try it next time after it sits for awhile and let it pressurize up before I crank it.

Nice!

Still though...why did Toy go this route? Why was it engineered to only run when it's cranking? It's just curious to me.

 

[RedP85]

Pump is running as long as the engine is.
When engine stops, it also stops pulling air true the flow measuring plate (AirFlowMeter) , and it opens the micro switch linked to the flapper. The yellow test plug is wired in parrallel to that micro switch, so you can, for test purposes only, run the pump without having to run the engine.

 

[SupRadical]

Okay...so as requested here is my breakdown of all that I $pent on it and what all I did with my notes. I'm a data analytics professor so I keep track of EVERYTHING in my spreadsheet and actually, when I took this on this is pretty much how I made my initial "list" of what all needed done and in what order!

This actually is great as it's a good way to cover a lot of what I did these past 6 months in my build thread without having to do each of these as a project...which would bore even me because it represents HUNDREDS of hours. All US currency.

GAS TANK
$300.00 - Radiator shop to clean it out
$175.98 - 2x Caswell 20 gal gas tank cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009T8BUG2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$202.50 - Excellent condition replacement sending unit - eBay
$31.99 - OEM Gas tank seals - Local Toy Dealership
$48.76 - Gates Barricade Fuel Injection hose and fuel injection clamps
$15.57 - Stainless screws / hardware - Local Ace hardware
$148.99 - Inline external fuel pump - Napa
$28.07 - Inline fuel filter (engine side) - Napa

LIGHTING
$38.10 - Repro side marker lights yellow - eBay
$46.76 - Used 1983 rear passenger brake / turn light - Junk yard (got REALLY lucky on this one!)
$80.00 - LED lights, assorted - Amazon
$65.00 - LED headlights. I liked these ones - Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WF1217Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$163.94 - Used MKII fog light set. Not bad, one had a chip, the other was perfect. - eBay
*I did the foglight mod and took the diffusers out per John's videos. (THANK YOU JOHN!) YouTube: John's Neverending List of Things to Do.

EXTERIOR / BODY
$55.00 - MKII translucent gold rear billboard graphic - eBay
$22.95 - Gold pinstripe tape (good quality) - Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P45NCTZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$72.63 - ZenGraphics Supra decals (I used for my side front quarter graphics.) Awesome quality and fast from UK! - Zen Graphics - Supra
$24.96 - eTrailer antenna (I thought looked the most OEM) - eTrailer - https://www.etrailer.com/RV_Antennas/Jensen/JAN139.html
$172.73 - OEM headlight whiskers - eBay
$1,200.00 - Paintless dent repair (luckily not too many scratches, a few good but blunt dents. Paintless is amazing!)
$980.00 - Full cut and buff, paint correction, ceramic coating (didn't trust myself to go as deep as needed to bring this paint back) - Local detailer
$520.00 - Full removal of old, tattered tint and reapplication of new tint - Local detailer
$985.00 - Full repaint of all wheel covers, trim pieces, spoiler and both bumpers - Local Auto Body
$415.02 - New windshield - Local Windshield Shop
$196.53 - Toy color match paint, bedliner, primer, assorted body stuff
$83.13 - Two-piece gold wheel bolts (Scored those JDM's! Came with it from previous owner and have great originals too!) - eBay

INTERIOR
$184.83 - Dashcap cover (I trimmed mine and think it looks better) - Amazon - Amazon.com: Accuform Fits 1982 1983 1984 1985 Toyota Celica & Supra Dash Cap : Automotive
$50.00 - Defroster vents L/R 3D printed - eBay
$46.53 - Steering wheel cover - Amazon but don't love it for the price
$16.95 - Celica Supra Key Fob - Amazon- Amazon.com: 1985 Celica Supra Emblem Design Keychain Key Holder Faux Leather Key Ring For Men Heavy Duty Car Keyring For Men and Women🗝 : Automotive
$35.00 - Arm rest recovery - Local Upholstery Shop
$9.00 = Black leather dye - For gauge console. A little sun fade, made it perfect again! - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ROPJXE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$33.50 - Assorted stainless hardware and foam for interior - Local Ace Hardware Store
$51.08 - Gold NRG shift knob - Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4LXVFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$123.82 - Supra floor mats - Zazzle - Not happy with them. Have the old Supra logo but are not going to hold up at all. Poorly done.

SOUND SYSTEM
$269.90 - Sony XAV-AX150 Apple Play Stereo - Walmart
$140.68 - Front 3.5" and rear 5.5" Infinity speakers - Amazon
$188.95 - Rockville Auto rear spare sub (GREAT value!) - Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4LXVFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$15.99 - Gold battery connections - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09STHKGFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$29.88 - Assorted electrical connections etc. - Local Auto Part Store
*I'll do a write up on this shortly.

ENGINE
$150.57 - Battery hold down, hood bumpes, phone holder - JP2 Motorsports.
$3.24 - Gas tank drain plug washer - Local Ace hardware
$196.98 - Redline MT 90 Transmission & Gear Oil
$98.96 -BG EPR / MOA motor cleaner / additive, 10w40 oil, OEM oil filter, belt conditioner, fuel inj cleaner, coolant, etc.
*And more to spend on the motor but it's running pretty strong with only one small leak.


AND THAT is how you spend just shy of $9000.00 on an old MKII Supra! But, I love it and I'm really happy with where it's at. I don't count my time because it's my hobby. to me, like many of you, I absolutely love going out in the garage, putting some music on, and getting my hands dirty! I won't reveal what I paid for it initially (in case I ever sell it to someone on here...doubtful bc I tend to keep my toys after I put this much work into them) but suffice to say I'm happy with where I'm sitting with my investment in it compared to the current market values of these and their trend (BAT etc.) I think that's the important part, to stay near or around that value if you can which is in partially why I sometimes make decisions like refurbishing the original paint instead of a full, $9k new paint job. When I went and looked at it I was adding most of this up in my head and I must be getting better (or older) because I was about spot on with what it took to get it to this level that I can be happy with (for now.) It's also the reason (sadly) that I am patient to find THE one that's worth it and walk away from a lot of others. I'd love to bring them all back but some just don't make sense or cents.

 

[RedP85]

Thanks for the links of a couple items, hopefully will help some other members.

 

[Jeremy R.]

Nicely done! I have 1800 hours into mine over the last two summers. I'm not sure on the total $$ amount.
I'm a great record keeper but after the last two crazy years who cares? LOL
I get to drive it!

I agree. I upped my garage stereo game this year to include a 1986 Realistic tape deck and a CD player. Vintage 90's Cambridge Audio speakers with 10" subs, an Akai AM/FM stereo tuner and JVC amplifier then crank it up and work away. Makes everything good. Even my neighbours got to enjoy what ever I was listening to.

Many small things take a looonnnng time. Like the wipers. They took 5 weeks of stripping, poking, prodding, priming and painting and now look OEM. Just what I was going for. Likewise the drip mouldings. I decided to match the B Pillar trim to the mouldings to make a more contiguous look. It's a pleasure to work on, even more fun to drive.

 

[pdupler]

I added up all the receipts on my first full restoration project back in the late 80s and found when I sold it, that I made $17.85 which came to about 2 cents per hour for my time. That was while I was in college, working a full-time job for part-time wages, i.e. a relative budget build with even a home garage paint job. Now I'd more typically spend $9,000 on a paint job and very few cars are worth enough to "justify" that kind of restoration expense. I still always keep the receipts for each project, but only just in case they are needed to exchange a defective part, invoke a warranty or if a buyer wants to review them. I would NEVER dream of adding them up. I don't want to know.

 

['82supra]

AND THAT is how you spend just shy of $9000.00 on an old MKII Supra!

WOW, sure does add up... but well worth it!

 

[SupRadical]

This is my write-up on my sound system:

IF my radio had worked I may have been tempted to keep it because for the time period, it was an audiophile's dream come true. A true component system with an EQ and even the funky little sub under the passenger's feet. But, it did not work. I got some static but that's it and I could NOT overlook how perfectly a double-din would fit in that space.

I'm all about originality but one of my favorite things to do is to drive my cars listening to the songs I grew up with. It is THAT important to my classic car experience. So...it was time for something a bit newer.Plus, I cannot deny how nice it is to have features like bluetooth, apple maps, etc.

First off, let me say the Blaupunkt setup is probably the absolute best for your cars to keep the original look and the eq (although I'm not entirely sure about wiring the EQ in with the blaupunkt...I'd have to look a lot closer at that. At any rate, the Blaupunkt is a LOT more expensive and that space is just so perfect for a double din. So, I kept all the original equipment and wiring in tact so maybe someday on the Blaupunkt but for now, I just wanted a double-din.

I went with the Sony XAV-AX150 for my head unit because it's about the cheapest double-din with Apple Carplay you can find. I had installed one of these in my 3rd Gen 4Runner and liked it. Since there's no DVD mechanism etc. in it it's light and t's compact behind the screen and leaves a lot of room for cables. Power output per channel is great for what I wanted in the Supra and the size speakers I was going with plus it has all the outs for subs etc. and comes with the harness. And, I've ALWAYS had great luck with Sony.

Robot or human?

Removal of the dash is straightforward and can be obtained from YouTube: John's Neverending List of Things to do. Again, thank you to John. While all of this was out I checked a lot out under the dash, replaced some bulbs, refurbished my glove compartment a bit with some black felt, etc.

The original radio and EQ was easy to remove via the connections. I clipped those associated with the radio knowing I would need to wire in my Sony wiring harness...power, ground, acc, speakers, etc. I kept it all.

I began identifying wires and marking them with blue tape AND testing each of them with a test light just to make sure! This was a great resource! Thank you Dutch Supra's!

https://www.shoarmateam.nl/content/mkii-mkiii-supra-radio-wiring/

I began wiring up my harness. I used a lot of alligator clips to test out the speaker wires and to set the entire thing up and test it before I began making permanent connections.
Amazon.com

And, I found these which are AWESOME! Amazing product! Shrink and sauder each connection in one step! Awesome! Wow what a difference compared to trying to crimp each of these little wires! https://www.amazon.com/TOWOT-Connec...efix=shrink+sauder,aps,126&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I chose some 3.52" Infinity round speakers for the fronts that mounted to the original surrounds. I also added some small surrounds / baffles (see below.)

I chose some 5.25" Infinity round speakers for the rear rather than trying to fit an oval and we all know that a 5x9" will not fit easily. I found the 5.25" to fit well and I was able to get two sides secured which is adequate. I also did use surrounds / baffles on these which made a surprisingly big differenece! These are cheap and easy to trim to fit. I also placed these in between the metal speaker mount and the speaker itself so that the speaker was not resting directly on that metal base (took keep it from buzzing etc.) Amazon.com

Overall I chose good quality speakers with a high enough rating for my 55w per channel headunit. I used all gold spade connections on the speaker connects and of course the sauder / shrink wrap connectors to the original speaker wires of the car. Oh, and I simply snipped, capped and ignored the orignial wires on the passenger side that went to the funky little original sub. No need. I don't have any great pics of the speakers in the surrounds and I'm sorry for that...was too busy trying to get it done and forgot. Now that they are all installed of course, they are hidden under the stock speaker grills in their stock locations.

At this point, it was all working and all sounded good. But, since I'd deleted that little original sub...I just needed that little bit extra so I decided to do a subwoofer. I really didn't want a box in the back (although hatchbacks are great for them.) I started wondering about these spare-tire subs. While there may be some that fit inside our original spare, the issue would be that I do not think we could flip it as would be needed plus, the ones I liked were a little too big. For me, that's okay because I really don't care about a spare. This is a collector car that I drive around locally so it's not a concern. But, I really wanted to use that space. I also liked this one because it has the amp built in. No biggie to mount a separate amp but I just liked it all being so compact.

I'm sure the JBL would be better but I settled on this and I am VERY happy with this for the price! It even comes with the install kit!
Amazon.com

I also put down some sound mat as well as some sound deadening foam. All was installed with rubber washers to again, keep the unit isolated from metal to metal to get any buzzing etc.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

Now began wiring the sub up. I had to remove several panels along the passenger side but once out I had a direct shot down that side of the car. I punched a hole and pulled the 10ga power wire through the AC drain boot underneath the passenger side. I wrapped it all in wire loom for looks and protection. A good tip is to have a few different sizes of wire loom around and a bunch of zip ties! The ground can go right to the latch bolt there on the trunk floor. The blue wire is the sub control from the head unit and this particular sub also has a controller. I thought about leaving that in the trunk because once you set it you pretty much forget it but I went ahead and fished it up to the front and I just slip it down between my seat and the console.

And, here is the final product!

You'll also see that I left the ashtray out and built a little phone holder sleeve there. It works great! I used a plastic rail guard and some foam. The plug for charging and ApplePlay direct connect is there too.

I also added the cup holder which is mounted to the JP3 cupholder bracket. This particular cup holder was at Walmart and worked out great bc it has a notch that fit neatly into the corner and tucks it back in there a little bit more. Plenty of leg room for the passenger still. What was up with the lack of cup holders in our Supra's. An ashtray for sure (I mean it was the 80's...) but no cupholders? Did people not drink in their cars?

And, finally, I had a few ask about my dashcap. So the original comes down and around the vents. My dash is pretty bad from sun on the main part but my vents are nice so I used a dremel and snippers to cut it and I added some moulding as well for a clean look. I like it and it's a LOT easier to take out and put in this way. The carpeted covers kind of go with the era but I like this better.

Again, the links on this:

Amazon.com

Amazon.com: Besteek Home Door Edge Guards Car Door Edge Guards 32Ft(10M) U Shape Car Door Protector Rubber Seal Door Guard Internal Double Sided Tape (No Glue Required), Black : Automotive

Buy Besteek Home Door Edge Guards Car Door Edge Guards 32Ft(10M) U Shape Car Door Protector Rubber Seal Door Guard Internal Double Sided Tape (No Glue Required), Black: Door Entry Guard - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[SupRadical]

Ran out of room. A few more pics...and of the antenna which I replaced with the most retro looking one I could find because the original was done and no longer went up and down. I also removed (but saved) all of my rear window washer apparatus. No need for that with this car. Oh, and also I did run my mic for that stereo up and along the windshield pillar. It was a really small, slim wire so I was able to just stick it back behind the header and the plastic pillar cover using plastic non-marring tools. Perfect and the mic actually sits up on a clip clipped above the rear view mirror.

But the radio sounds GREAT and especially in this little hatchback! So nice to cruise along listening to my 80's and being a legend in my own mind.

 

[SupRadical]

Nicely done! I have 1800 hours into mine over the last two summers. I'm not sure on the total $$ amount.
I'm a great record keeper but after the last two crazy years who cares? LOL
I get to drive it!

I agree. I upped my garage stereo game this year to include a 1986 Realistic tape deck and a CD player. Vintage 90's Cambridge Audio speakers with 10" subs, an Akai AM/FM stereo tuner and JVC amplifier then crank it up and work away. Makes everything good. Even my neighbours got to enjoy what ever I was listening to.

Many small things take a looonnnng time. Like the wipers. They took 5 weeks of stripping, poking, prodding, priming and painting and now look OEM. Just what I was going for. Likewise the drip mouldings. I decided to match the B Pillar trim to the mouldings to make a more contiguous look. It's a pleasure to work on, even more fun to drive.

Ya at some point it's probably better not to keep track. I do not disagree. This is our hobby after all. Love the garage stereo going retro! Nice retro component system!

I tried to find some pics of your car. Is it 80's neon like I see in the avatar!?