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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone bought one? How was the quality? I just bought a 1,000 pound one, and just want to know what others have thought of them.
 

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I bought one and have used it for a while now. Had several small block Chevies on it along with a small block Buick. No problems. Had another cheap one that looked almost identical and put a big block chevy on it only to see it melt down toward the floor. But, that's a bunch of weight plus it had all accessories on it. A 5M doesn't even make them squat!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I bought it to stick the 7m on, and I would think it wouldn't way hardly any more. Good to know that you like it. Thanks for the input. :)
 

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They work fine...engine stands are not rocket science...they just need to be able to hold the weight reliably and allow you to turn the engine over lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know it's not rocket science. :p I just mainly wanted to know that it would hold up decently.
 

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I use things so infrequently that HF crap is good enough for me. Engine stand, engine hoist, etc, I have had zero issues with.

...and you flat CAN NOT beat them on price. Sign up for a $2/yr subscription to Popular Science, as they've had a 20% off coupon in the back of each one for the last year or so.

--billyM
 

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I have a HF engine stand. Only drawback is that its not welded together perfectly straight. Also have an engine stand I bought from a local auto parts store many years ago of unknown brand that I use more often. But in general, the HF does the job and its cheaper.
 

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i bought one when i did my rebuilt, didnt like it at all, for me looks like the engine was way to heavy for it.
 

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just be careful when you rotate the engine. have a friend help steady the stand, if possible. Mine was from princess auto (same harbor freight crap) an was not too stable when the mass of the engine was no longer centered.
 

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Mine worked fine. Got it from Northern Tool. It's either 1000lb or 1250lb for about $90 with tax IIRC. I also recommend having someone there to help in rotation. Other than that, the only complaint I have with mine is that where the spacers are, going to the block from the stand, were rather short causing me to have to remove it entirely to install the flywheel. Not the biggest problem in the world, but kind of annoying.
 

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Ya, flywheel install will need the engine to be on the hoist or in the car. I don't think there is a type of stand that does that, other than one that goes on the side of the engine block.
 

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I'd like a modified engine stand that attached to the motor mount bosses on the side of the block...

That said, I keep my engine hoist attached to the front of the motor when I'm spinning a complete motor (accessories and all) with just enough tension that it allows me to lower it 180deg, rather then spinning it. (or just have a buddy close-by when you do).

The only suggestion I'd make to most, is if you are using your engine stand to build motors, invest in the stand that has two front casters vs one. Usually ~$5 more expensive, but drastically more stable with the big i6 on there.

Bad.

Better.


--BillyM
 

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I'd like a modified engine stand that attached to the motor mount bosses on the side of the block...

That said, I keep my engine hoist attached to the front of the motor when I'm spinning a complete motor (accessories and all) with just enough tension that it allows me to lower it 180deg, rather then spinning it. (or just have a buddy close-by when you do).

The only suggestion I'd make to most, is if you are using your engine stand to build motors, invest in the stand that has two front casters vs one. Usually ~$5 more expensive, but drastically more stable with the big i6 on there.

Bad.

Better.


--BillyM

I've got one very similar to the lower of the two that BillyM posted (got it from HF), and my rebuild is still on it, waiting to get time to roll it outdoors for the final lift back on the hoist so I can re-install the flywheel, clutch, etc. and transmission then get it back in the '85. Engine has been on the stand inside the house since about May last year (family health issues have put most everything on hold at home, other than the basics of life).

The one thing I *have* been doing just to be safe, is I keep a small bottle jack (with 2x4 wood extension) pumped up just enough to take some weight off the engine (propped up under one motor mounts), just 'to be sure'. Engine stand is rated at 1000lbs, but it doesn't hurt to keep a safety net under it, so to speak.

But, yeah, kinda like Billy said, I use some of this stuff so little that the HF stuff seems to work just fine and the price is great. Bought my stand and hoist both from them when I was getting ready to pull the motor (my first pull) back in December '08.

Earl
 

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...The only suggestion I'd make to most, is if you are using your engine stand to build motors, invest in the stand that has two front casters vs one. Usually ~$5 more expensive, but drastically more stable with the big i6..

:stupid:

I have a HF one and the two biggest regrets I have are the tricycle which can make for some eventful moments and on the supra motors the pivot axis is so far down you have a hell of a time flipping the motor if you have the head on.
 

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4 casters ftw

been sitting in the living room like that for months... :\
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I bought the 1000 pound with 4 casters instead of the 750 pound one with 3. It was only 10 bucks more for another caster, and another 250 pounds worth of stability.
 

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I use the 2000lb one, I think it was $200? A buddy had is 1000lb one fold up with a dressed 2JZ on it. I'm very glad I got the larger one, I can rotate my head/block 360 degree's by myself and never worry about it tipping over.

I'm not saying that spending more is better, but for the amount of money a person could spend on their engine, I'd rather be safe than sorry.
 

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I’ve had a Northern Tools engine stand for a couple years now, never had issues. Probably made in the same Chinese factory as the HF product. Still have a full motor on it since June 2009. When the motor is built it’s nearly impossible to flip it simply by using the t-bar. I’ve always stood on the side or front and lifted the motor while rotating. Takes the friction off the pivot point.

I also have an engine cradle from Northern Tool. Inexpensive and works well with the 5M/6M. Good for storage.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_406688_406688

I added a bar across the open end to prevent racking. Will also need a couple blocks of 2x4 to get a good alignment between the engine cradle and the motor mounts.

You blockhead.
Scott
 

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Ya, flywheel install will need the engine to be on the hoist or in the car. I don't think there is a type of stand that does that, other than one that goes on the side of the engine block.[/QUOTE
Well, no one wants to install, flywheel clutch, trannny ect. with the motor installed if they already have it out. I used a very sturdy work table to do all that with the hoist attached and tight for stability. Also blocks in strategic places.
 
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