[Glaucus]

Hey Supra fans!

Well, like the subject suggests, when I'm stopped with the engine running and press the clutch and attempt to move the shifter into first, I sometimes have a hard time getting it in there. Sometimes I need to pump the clutch a few times before it opens up and really push the clutch pedal into that carpet - other times it moves in with ease. Usually when the car warms up it gets better, but now with the weather getting cooler it seems to be more of a problem. If the car is rolling even a little bit it's usually quite easy to get it into first. I also noticed that when stopped on flat ground and put it in first gear while the clutch is in, the car may start to creep forward and then stop as soon as I pull it out of gear. This also seems to go away as the car warms up.

It seems to me as if the hydrolic lines or the master/slave cylinders might be leaking, but I don't see any leaks. Should I try bleeding the line or is it most likely an issue with something inside the tranny itself? I replaced the tranny oil about two months ago and it didn't really change this behavior. Any thoughts? Keep in mind I pretty much know nothing about how transmissions work internally...

- Mike

 

[sloopercat]

Bleed the system, get all the old fluid out. I bet all of Zankone's money that it fixes it.

You could have a master cylinder going bad, it will leak back into the interior where it goes through the firewall, so you may not see the leak unless you look for it.

 

[Muchbzy]

Also first acts up with age. Try just putting it in another gear like 3rd or 5th and it usually goes right in after that.

 

[Black Dawg]

That is a characteristic of pretty much all Toyota trannys. just pop it into 2nd and then 1st. Or nut up and get it rebuilt.

 

[sloopercat]

I don't think having the car move while the clutch is pushed in is normal. :shocked!:

 

[Black Dawg]

I don't think having the car move while the clutch is pushed in is normal. :shocked!:

durrrrrrr.... at: I guess I should read the whole post.

master/slave cylinder, or pressure plate.

 

[Glaucus]

Okay, thanks for all the replies, guys. Of course I did the easiest and cheapest thing first; I bled the system. Lotsa sludge came out, followed by some black, grimmy liquid, then eventually some milky stuff and finally got to the clean stuff. Also cleaned out the reservoir by hand as it had a fair bit of build up. I do have to wonder though, how did that sludge get there in the first place?!?

So did it help? Well, it seems to have helped a little bit, but it still does it, but not as bad. Of course, the engine was kinda warmish (it was off for maybe a couple of hours), tomorrow morning I'll know better if it really did anything (although with all that shit that came out, it must have done SOMETHING!). Now I think I should do the same with the brakes...

Anyway, I'll check closely for any leaks from my side of the firewall tomorrow. Perhaps it is leaking. I have a master cylinder I pulled off an '85 that I could try if this one is leaking. I'll keep you guys posted, and thanks again.

- Mike

 

[sloopercat]

Sludge is from old fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it picks up mositure from the air. I would change out the fluid every three years to be safe. All that moisture causes corrosion inside the system. I would bet you have sealing issues in the system. The master cylinder is aluminum, so if it is bad, don't even try to rebuild it. The slave cyl is cheap.

I use the Valvoline Syntec stuff as it less hygroscopic. Castrol used to make a LMA (low moisture absorption)fluid. All the Brit cars were spec'd to use it.

You can change to full synthetic, but you would have to start with a clean dry system, it is not compatible.

 

[trdmkii]

You might also want to change the fluid in the transmission and replace it with new gear oil, i believe our cars call for 75w-90 gear oil. I know that again with older fluid you have build up and then the fluid becomes thicker. That could also cause harder shifts when cold......jsut a maintenance tip it helps to change it every 20,000-30,000 miles....thats what i was always told.

 

[Glaucus]

Well, it seems the bleeding really did help. Driving around today I noticed a major improvement, yet it's still not 100%. Perhaps there's still some residue inside, however for now it's good enough!

- Mike

 

[zank]

Bleed the system, get all the old fluid out. I bet all of Zankone's money that it fixes it.

Money what money you mean bills :deal: :dancin:

IM having the same problem, thanks for the info guyz ill be checking my car for those tips 8)

 

[sloopercat]

You probably still have air in the system, you need to bleed it again. A little air is too much. Ask Zankone to help, I hear he really sucks. :3gears:


One other thing to check is the free play between the clutch master and the rod that hooks to the pedal. The clearance is adjustable, you need some free play to allow the clutch master to bleed back fluid when you let off the pedal. I have seen some cars that have too much free play and adjusting that allows the clutch to disengage that last little bit. Take a look at the pedal assembly and you will see how to adjust the actuator rod. Normally you don't check it unless you replace the master cylinder.

 

[CELICA XX]

I replaced my entire slave cylinder with a new part from the dealer. I didnt want to mess with rebuild. Around $60, new.

 

[Supra Bob]

Good info guys... I was about to ask about the same thing. The black car has been doing the same thing to me... Its a pain in the ass to hafta strong arm the car into gear at a stop.