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Has anyone tried the NAPA nightvision LED lights?

11K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  phlynx21 
#1 ·
These should be a direct swap, look to be fairly low key looking vs the truck-lites i'm running that look like some anime stuff.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LMOH6054NVLEDN


I had one of my truck-lites go out recently and I'm outside of warranty, tempted to try something new. I let em know I'm at well under the rated hours, and that it is in perfect shape, and that it's just the low beam portion that went out, they seemed uninterested. Customer service offered no discount program or anything like that, so i'm expected to just buy a fresh one and hope it goes out in the first 3 years I guess? I definitely enjoyed them and got my moneys worth, but why not try something new for less money and see if they're decent? The truck lites have come down in price quite a bit it seems though.
 
#2 ·
I use the GE nighthawk LED housings and am happy with them.
 
#10 ·
I bought the Napa led lights and they fit great!!!! Cost me about $90 each . I spent an hour trying to get them to work. Finally changed enough pins to get them to work on high beam only. So they are capable but if you figue out the wires let me know. Yes I used resistors.
thanks for any help
 
#14 · (Edited)
I bought the Napa led lights and they fit great!!!! Cost me about $90 each . I spent an hour trying to get them to work. Finally changed enough pins to get them to work on high beam only. So they are capable but if you figue out the wires let me know. Yes I used resistors.
thanks for any help
I do not have pics. I will try it again but I can assure you it is not plug and play. maybe this weekend. Any thoughts?
1. did your headlights work OK on low & high beams beforehand?

2. what model/brand are the original headlights?

3. did NAPA lights come with any instructions? Post those here.

4. did they come with resistors? Ballast resistors are only needed for LED turn-signals to prevent hyperflashing. They fool flasher-relay into flowing more current like original incandescent bulbs. Draw accurate diagram of how you have resistors wired-in and post here.

5. post some photos of what terminals at back of light looks like

6. post some photos of headlight connector on car's harness

7. do you have multimeter and know how to use it?
 
#17 ·
You need to do the foglight rewire in the center console (then you can use them as driving lights when the headlights are off) as well as add resistors inline with the headlights so the high beam indicator on the dash works properly. Nothing needs to be done at the actual headlight plug although I'd suggest soldering on a nice new pigtail as the wiring and plug tends to get worn out, corroded and crumbly.
 
#18 · (Edited)
yeah, they plug right in and work perfectly fine out of box. Don't even need to re-wire anything going to headlight themselves.

1. if you unplug these lights and put factory lights back in, do they work?

2. do you have multimeter and know how to use it to measure voltage and resistance?

This is literally a 5-minute repair with multimeter.

Again, help us help you. Post photos of everything, especially the plug on car harness and the connections at back of lights.
 
#19 ·
Toyota Supra has reverse polarity (GND is switched to the low and high beam) - these headlights require B+ to be switched to get the right polarity thru the diodes (typical US vehicles and other). Headlights with filaments (e.g. halogen) don’t care about the polarity and work fine in the OEM circuit. Per my brother in law the Engineer and former 85 ptype owner
if you find this in error please enlighten us This is frustrating
 
#20 · (Edited)
I'm ME and my brother-in-law is EE. He can't even get set of sprinkler timers working properly. Not all engineers are created equal.

Don't get polarity mixed up with on/off switch.
Two completely different things.
 
#21 ·
Okay I'm going to explain exactly how this works. You will need to reference the wiring diagrams section 4-4 for the headlights and 2-1 for the fog lights.

The first thing you need to understand is an incandescent bulb acts like a low impedance resistor in a circuit. There is continuity between the terminals. So if only one terminal is connected to power it will 'pull up' the other side to +12v if it is not grounded (bulb off). A LED or HID does not work like this - there is no continuity between the terminals.

As per 4-4 when the headlights are switched off the main headlight relay is off so they get no power.

When the headlamps are switched to on (one click past the parking lights and high beams off) the retractor relay activates the motors to raise them and then turns the headlight relay on. This provides power to the lights which pulls up the ground side of the high beams to +12v since the low/high beam switch is only grounding the low beam side. The pulled up ground of the high beam is connected to the fog light switch see 2-2 which when closed uses this to power the coil in the fog light relay. You can rewire this in the center console to get power from the illumination circuit instead so the fogs will work when the system is in parking, low beams or high beams. This is a common mod just search the forum. Obviously with LED/HID headlights they won't pull the high beam ground side to +12v because there is no continuity so the fogs won't work unless you do the rewire or add some continuity.

When the high beams are switched on, it grounds the high beam lamp only. So the fogs turn off as the power for the switch and relay coil is now a ground. The ground side of the low beams is disconnected so it is pulled up to +12V. This is connected to the power side of the high beam indicator on the cluster. Again with HID or LED lamps this won't work as there isn't continuity so the high beam indicator won't work. Only easy fix is to add some continuity.

The good news is lots of older cars work like this. So there are products on the market that add a low impedance resistor in parallel with the headlamp to provide this continuity. Because it is in parallel it won't drop the voltage going to the lamp, it just used a bit of current when the light is on. If you use one of these with each LED or HID lamp then the system will work as designed. I still recommend the fog light rewire though because it allows you to use them as driving lights with the parking lights on when driving at dusk/dawn.


Make sure you use resistors. Some are a little circuit with capacitors and only work on newer cars. For ours you need the resistor based ones. There are lots on Amazon but you need to get the right ones.
 
#22 ·
Here are some on Amazon


Here is the fog light rewire thread, he bridges it with a new wire but I just cut the power wire to the switch and connected it to the power side of the map light as it is a permanent mod for me.

 
#23 · (Edited)
Here's relevant diagram. High-beam indicator & foglight trigger are on voltage-divider circuit, interesting...


@Vokey975j, I'm not kidding when I tell you this is an easy 5-minute fix. I used to build and sell heavy-duty battery-cables & headlight harness for Porsches with 50-year warranty. It's been 25-years and not single one has failed or come back. They sometimes pop up on eBay selling for double what I charged for them.




My shoppe installed aftermarket standalone EFI systems. Would build vehicle-specific harnesses for Accel DFI, Austronic, Autotronic, Electromotive TEC, Haltech, LinkECU, Megasquirt, MoTeC, SDS-EFI, Wolfe 3D, systems. Then dyno-tune.



I built my own wideband O2-sensor from individual parts.


So I know what I'm talking about when I tell you this is simple 5-minute fix. It took me longer to write this post than it would take for you to fix this problem. But you gotta give me more data to work with.

1. Please confirm which wires are plugged into which terminal at headlight bulb itself. Post photo of back of headlight plug on harness showing wire colours going into connector.

2. Get multimeter and learn how to use it to measure voltage and resistance. I'll probably need you to take some readings later once we know where each wire goes.

5-minutes to get your lights working!!! You've probably wasted way more time than that already!!!
 
#24 ·
Success!!!!!!! Thanks to all who helped with this battle. The lights work great. I used Amazon.com: H4 LED Headlight Wiring Harness [Negative Switched Conversion] [Fused] H4 Head Light Relay Harness Kit for 9003 H6054 H5054 H6054LL 6014 6052 6053 Subaru Toyota Head Lights : Automotive
from Amazon as recommended by 4SFED The installation was easy and did not have to drill any holes. I did not have to use the resistors I purchased. The high beam indicator may be a little dull but that’s ok. I willupdate you as I. Drive it some more but rarely drive it in the dark due to deer

Thanks again!
 
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