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Discussion Starter #1
I've never had this problem before but lately i've been having to crank the car about 6-8 times before she fires up. The 1st time that it cranks over it'll idle for about 3 seconds at around 400rpm and die out. The 2nd or 3rd time it cranks over it'll idle for about 3-5 seconds at 400 rpm and want to die out but the motor seems to fight it and eventually itll smooth out in idle to around 1200 rpm. Once she warms up i have no problem starting her up.
I was going over the tsrm and a possibility could be the cps? I dont think the cold start injector is a problem but who knows.... ive got a video so you guys can see and hear for yourselves...


side note: i did some upgrades prior to this issue: clutch, flywheel, intercooler and pipes, 57' trim ct-26, and egr blockoff-plates.


heres the video

 

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J, thermo timing switch or CSI ????? Not a 7M guy so my best guess??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ive tried to give it some gas but it actually turns off faster.... so the culprit could be the cs injector time switch. ill try to see if that could be it. Any other possibilities?

Hey wade, when this happened to you, what symptoms did you encounter besides what i wrote?
 

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At what point did this start? How long did it progress before getting this bad?

It's pretty much the same on both 5m and 7m cars. The 5/6m seemed to start harder with a bad CSITS. It got so bad on my 5m in 1999 used to carry a can of starting fluid everywhere. It can get especially nasty in cold weather. It happened again with my 6mgte car in '05. Check the resistance of your switch before buying new. They can run $95-125...

A secondary, thought would be fuel pump and FPR issues. It sure seems to be fuel related but since you haven't listed your fuel system upgrades or lack there of, it's a guessing game.....
 

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Do you have the ISCV hooked up? Looks like its not bringing the idle up when the motor is cold. I'd check both the sending units (the CSI time swithch and the one that tells the ecu the Coolant temp), Then check for piping leaks and that the ISCV is working(does it click when you turn the motor off? is a good start)

This sounds just like my swap, my ISCV is unplugged as its faulty and I need to give it the slightest bit of throttle to have it start and then less throttle to idle above 500rpm for about 30 seconds till its warm enough to run on its own.

What did it idle at before, and now, when it is cold?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do you have the ISCV hooked up? Looks like its not bringing the idle up when the motor is cold. I'd check both the sending units (the CSI time swithch and the one that tells the ecu the Coolant temp), Then check for piping leaks and that the ISCV is working(does it click when you turn the motor off? is a good start)

This sounds just like my swap, my ISCV is unplugged as its faulty and I need to give it the slightest bit of throttle to have it start and then less throttle to idle above 500rpm for about 30 seconds till its warm enough to run on its own.

What did it idle at before, and now, when it is cold?
iscv is hooked up, but its crapped out before. the one i have on now is a used iscv i found at the junkyard. it does click when i turn it off, so thats good right? the ecu coolant temp is brand spanking new. its always idled at ~400 rpms at warm operating temp. on a cold (freezing) startup it would reach 1200 to 1400 rpm max. if its warm out, on a cold startup it would go to about ~900 rpm max...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A secondary, thought would be fuel pump and FPR issues. It sure seems to be fuel related but since you haven't listed your fuel system upgrades or lack there of, it's a guessing game.....
fuel system has a -6 stainless braided fuel feed line from tank to rail. 255 walbro intank fuel pump. im sure it isnt fuel related because once shes on, theres no problems :thumbsup: theres no aftermarket fpr, just the stock one. (i should get a fpr guage to replace it. i heard thats common)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
update:
I put a good working thermo timing switch and iscv and it still starts up the same. I did notice that it idles smoother. After warming up it settles right around 600rpm. Before it would stay around 400rpm.. any other ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ill check the fpr next....

i do notice that when shes fighting to stay at idle, i could hear the maf sucking in lots of air. did this happen to you
 

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Discussion Starter #13
if i hear the sucking and press the throttle, it'll turn off.... i notice that when i flood it a bit before turning the key itll idle up quickly but turn off again. im kinda stumped. i may replace the cold start injector to see if that works...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yup, it sucks. its gotta be the cold start. once its warm, it starts up easily. if the cps was bad, would it be hard to start when cold? would it start up easily once its warm?
 

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could it be the air intake pipe? a small leak or a larger one could be the culprit. once i sat in the kroger parking lot, it sounded just like that. couldnt hurt to look over a common ingored/forgotten about part.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
nope, ive checked. so what would you guys suggest i do. I could create a checklist.... what do you guys recommend first?
 

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dont laugh but hows the cold start inj lately??
bump up base idle on throttle body and see if that helps.
check to see if you are loseing fuel pressure because that would cause your symptoms
 

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Discussion Starter #19
cold start injector has never really worked when i bought it 2 years ago. but it always started fine, just never idled up past 1100 rpm on even the coldest days...

i have the 89-92 throttle body so theres no screw to bump up the idle. fuel pressure is something i havent checked. i need to buy a fuel pressure guage
 
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