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i think my headgasket is blown, if anyone has directions or a writeup that i can follow to change it, i would really appreciate it. 84 ptype mkII by the way.
thanks a lot.
amir
 

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Best place to get info is here

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM_MKII/index.html

The chilton manual does help expaline how to do some of the things the TSRM tells you very vaugly how to do, and can be purchased relitively cheaply on Amazon.com


A few tips

Drian all the coolant before hand

best way I found to get the cam gears off is with a buddy, use a strap wrench, one of you hold cam gear in position while the other loosens the bolt.

To remove the valve springs either rent or buy the tool (I payed $120CDN for mine) It looks like a Big C Clamp, don't bother trying to use the cheaper $50.00 one that has like a V and twohandels to squeeze together its a peice of @#$%

Label everything!!!! Very important especially if you have to get the head resurfaced, the place I took mine would disassemble the valve trian but not put t back together, so I decided if I was gonna figure out how to get it back together taking it apart myself was best plan. I suggest ziplock bags, put each piece from the intake side of cylinder one into 1 bag valve, spring keeper, rocker etc. label intake #1 etc.

Since you will have the head apart anyway do a valve job, get some laping compound, the sucktion cup tool, and some wire brushes. What I did here was I bought a wire brush attachment that would attach to my drill, I "buffed" all the really hard carbon off the valve then I lapped it in its exact cylinder (clean out the combustion chanber first with wire brush) I spent about 5-10 min on each valve maybe a bit more cause I had lots of time on my hands. Squeez all the oil out of the adjusters and put them back in place. (or back in your baggy)

Again you've got the head off so replace all the gaskets and seals there will be no better time, buy the whole kit its not that much more expensive than just the HG. I bought the Deroit gasket kit, everything was there and was excellent except for the valve stem seals they seemed to be smaller than the ones I removed, I would recommed ordering them seperately from Toyota.

To clean the block I used a block of wood and sand paper and rubbed back and fourth to removeHG material, clean it up nicely, you can start with a faily rough grit and work your way to a finer paper, avoid just hand sanding becuse it will make uneven vallys in the block (invisible to the naked eye) I did have to sand by hand in a few place just to remove material like the small post that holds the HG in place.

Use this method to clean any surface a gasket will touch and do your best to remove all old gasket material (except on the combustion side of the head unless you don't get it surfaced but it only cost me $50CDN and ti was checked fr tolerances and was slightly warped but not badly and he was able to surface back into spec)

For reassembly I used new head bolts and washers about $80.0CDN from toyota and torqued them to 65ftlbs, however since then I have re-used head bolts on 7M-GTE's and torqued them to 80-90ftlbs with no problem. The manual also suggests new exhaust bolts which I purchased. After your break in 500Km (300miles) you will want to check the bolts and retourqe them as the gaskets will have settled into position and compressed slightly (exhaust and head, not sure about intake)

When your putting it all back together refill coolant with just water, cause in most cases on your first attempt some hard to reach collant line may not get proporly tightened or an old bad hose will decided it didn't like being removed and leak all over the place.

Also buy 8L of Oil, 1 4L jug of cheap stuff and 1 4L jug of good stuff becuase even thpough you drained your coolant before you pulled your head some usualy get dumped into one of the cylinders and you will want to fluch it out. Run car for about 10min take for short test drive, then drian oil and replace.

You also should not you need to break the head back in for approx 500Km (300miles), slow gental driving, but not remaining at a single RPM for to long.

The extra work to do the valve job is so worth it, when I did it to my 85 it sounded like a new motor, no tick, no nothing Just purred like a very big kitten... it was sweeeeeet! :)

These are most of the things that stood out in my memory, hope this helps

Carl
 
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