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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One day me and my buddy were riding along when all of a sudden our balls shriveled up into us. I checked the heat temp and it said it was all the way up. It definatly wasnt blowin warm air. I thought it was the thermostat replaced it wasnt it. Nothing is leaking anywhere. Could my heatercore be clogged or is it something electrical? please help because im about to start wearing all my snowboarding clothes when i go out somewhere!
 

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First thing to try, is burping the cooling system.. air pocklets seem to like to be trapped in the heater core. To burp it, just raise the front of the car on stands, then remove the rad cap and let it idle until it comes to temp...

After that I would say its the Vaccum Switching Valve on the firewall of the engine bay. If that went bad, you could try tio find a replacement, or do like I did on my Blue car, and make a manual one (on in the winter, off in the summer)
 

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Probably the water valve or the VSV that activates it if it just up and quit on you. Check to see if you have vacuum at the valve with the heater on. If you do its probably the valve, if not its probably the VSV. I believe the heater VSV is under the washer fluid tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I feel kinda dumb asking this but what is a vsv? I can fix her but throw terms at you and ill stare at u like a 1st grader that was handed a college physics test. I dont think it is the thing on the firewall. I took it off and put a copper tube inbetween the 2 tubes to see if that was it and i still get cold air.
 

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That "Coppper Switchy Thing" on the passenger side of the firewall that interupts your heater hose and has a vacuum line and two electrical lines, is infact the VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve). If you bypassed that and still got cold air, then thats what we in the business call a bad thing :(

Try disconnecting both heater hoses and flushing the heatercore backwards with a water hose. It may be something as simple as a blockage in the core or line somewhere.

I know how shitty it is to drive with no heat..spent the better part of last winter with no heat... and I was driving better than 1500 miles a month.
 

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ritua1313 do you have a parts list of what all you changed for the trans swap. Also how hard was it to install the clutch peddal? I think I can remove the brake peddal from it's mounting bracket and just swap the auto peddal to the manual peddal. Without having to change the whole bracket. But the clutch peddal I will have to install the peddal and bracket. I'm not sure how it goes in there. Looks like it has 2 bolts into the firewall. And one bolt that goes on the top part of the clutch peddal bracket. Can you give me any idea on how hard it was to get the clutch pedal installed correctly. The rest of the job should be pretty straight forward I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes it is williamsport pa.
Installing the brake pedal was easy it just slipped right where the auto one was. The clutch was easy too there are 3 rubber gromets. two of them are for the bolts and the other a rod slips through going into your master cylinder. It was actually pretty easy to do. It took me about 3 days working off and on withabout 2 feet of room. there is a really good write up on it http://oz-enet.com.au/~peewee/gbox_conv_1.html

the parts i got were the driveshaft, flywheel(had to get refinished), tranny, clutch kit, pedals, hard and soft lines(master to slave), slave and master cylinders. I had a problem with my slave, for some reason the rod wasn't pushing the pressure plate in far enough so we made a new one. Make sure you get all the correct bolts. If you have anymore questions pm me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yes it is williamsport pa.
Installing the brake pedal was easy it just slipped right where the auto one was. The clutch was easy too there are 3 rubber gromets. two of them are for the bolts and the other a rod slips through going into your master cylinder. It was actually pretty easy to do. It took me about 3 days working off and on withabout 2 feet of room. there is a really good write up on it http://oz-enet.com.au/~peewee/gbox_conv_1.html

the parts i got were the driveshaft, flywheel(had to get refinished), tranny, clutch kit, pedals, hard and soft lines(master to slave), slave and master cylinders. I had a problem with my slave, for some reason the rod wasn't pushing the pressure plate in far enough so we made a new one. Make sure you get all the correct bolts. If you have anymore questions pm me.
 

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Next time I roll thru Williamsport, I'll shoot ya a PM. We can have a Mini-mini meet..lol. My Grandmother lives about an hour or so north of ya.
 

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Thanks for the info and the website. My only consern is the clutch peddal. If you could PM me with more details about how it bolts ups. I would really appreciate it. Thanks
 

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If you're also a member of the Yahoo MK II group, there is a text file on the heating system in the Files section. This comes up every year as it gets cooler. I second Bob's comment about making sure you don't have an air bubble in the system. Having fluid in the expansion tank is not a reliable indicator of a full system. Don't forget to have the heat on when burping the system.

Another possible problem is a vacuum leak. If your vacuum lines have never been replaced, I guarantee you they need it, particularly those under the hood that get baked by the engine heat - the one's under the dash can wait until you have the dash torn apart.
 
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