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Discussion Starter #1
I have already posted about this problem hope yall don’t get mad four posting another thread. Summary of problem – Car over heats, temp gauge fluctuates drastically from normal to red zone periodically. Engine coolant and water is being spat out through the reservoir causing a strong anti-freeze smell. A have done what people have suggested like burping air out off the system. Actually it worked for about a month, but once again yesterday heating fluctuation resumed. I am guessing that air is getting into my system some how any suggestions. I am kinda stomped.
 

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Please list evrything you have done so far, so I don't offer you old advice.

Sorry to hear that you problem has reappeared.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sorry i forgot to say, my bad.
I have changed temp sensor that goes on the thermostat case cover thing. Changed water pump and belt. I have changed the thermostat twice. Burped the car. And change the coolant and or refilled. Radiator cap also. What else? I think that it. In any case I will change the sensor that on the head or block.
If its air then its getting in my system somehow. I belief this because the last time I flushed the air out the system (doing what was told to me in previous thread) it worked for about a month.
One thing that I forgot to mention is when I am working on my car around the engine bay it makes these weird sounds, kinda like air water type noises hard to explain. In any case they (noises) seam to be coming from the rear passenger side of the engine bay.
 

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I hate to say it, but it's starting to sound like a cracked head or head gasket.

Mine did this when my head gasket went and was seeping exhaust gases from #6 cylinder into the coolant. I had more or less the same symptoms you are having.


Mike
 

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hmmm. Cracked head huh

HCogeHC
I would say that would be a good excuse to go with the 7MGTE :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
should I check the compression on my engine to see if i have a BHG or would this type of problem not show up in a compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well i guess there aint nothing i could do. I guess im just gonna have to beat the shit out off the engine till it blows :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :snipersm: :vamp: hahahahahahahahahah.
then i would have to look for 7mgte :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mwebber said:
I hate to say it, but it's starting to sound like a cracked head or head gasket.

Mine did this when my head gasket went and was seeping exhaust gases from #6 cylinder into the coolant. I had more or less the same symptoms you are having.


Mike
Now that you mention it, I remember when I was rebuilding my block I noticed that the port-holes where the water intermittently travels from the head to the block, seamed to be corroding depressions around the holes. Do you think that this has something to do with my problems? Those corroding depressions where not that deep, I covered them with RVT silicone.


you cant see the depressions here this is just to give an idea of what im talkin about.
 

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If no mixing of oil and water anyhere I don't think the head is cracked Its a sealing problem between the head and block(block surface is very important with aluminum head),I would have the block decked to square up the passages to the head gasket for a perfect seal and head checked and resurfaced with a smooth finish,buy the best headgasket you can afford or metal and never worry about it again.I HAVE NEVER BLOWN A HEADGASKET EVEN WITH 18 PSI BOOST IN THE LAST 10 + YEARS. Its a PITA to do over,but when its running perfect you will be :D .Good luck.
 

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The corrosion and pitting that you described can be caused by a number of things, including hard water (high mineral content) mixed with antifreeze, a deteriorated or weak antifreeze mixture, using water only without antifreeze, poor quality antifreeze that doesn't have a good corrosion inhibitor, etc.. Use the Toyota Red antifreeze or Propylene Glycol antifreeze mixed with distilled water once you have the head and the block deck resurfaced. This combined with a good quality head gasket will help prevent a BHG and also help prevent any further corrosion and pitting.
 

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I had a similar problem, it was prolly in my thread you read about burping :) It turned out to be the heater core hose, it had a crack in it (old hose), and coolant would leak out under pressure and drip all over making it hard to locate the source. Once the level drained too much, air would seep in and it would overheat in the exact way you describe. Check ALL the hoses, esp. the heater core one. Hope that helps!


-Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well my car acted up again. I changed some hoses that i thought where that heater core hoses (MK2Racer can u plz tell me what and where are the heater core hoses). Then burped the car but i guess thats not the problem. One thing that i notices is that the bubbles are endless there is not end to it. :bad-word: #(%)(Q#%(Q#*(#%Q***%&&^&!([email protected]#%* :bad-word: dont tell me its a BHG plzzzzzzzz noooooooooooooooooooo. Okay im cool now. Well i check my oil regularly and there seems to not be any water present and my car aint kicking out smoke from the exhaust and my car feels pretty strong still. Then again i guess anything is possible. I was thinking of just buying a 6m from what his name Ray Fong? in any case dose any one know if his blocks come with head efi ect.. THX people.
 

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Have you had your radiator tested? Given your random schedule of overheating, it probably isn't the answer, but it is someting you could have checked. A pressure test of your radiator could also tell you if air is getting into your system from it as well.

Just a thought.

Also, I am not certain of the location of the temperature sending unit. The 2 items right behind the thermostat on the thermostat housing are the injector timing switch, and the thermo sensing unit, but my shop manual points to a slightly different location for the temperature sending unit and seems to refer to them as 2 different items. My car does not overheat, but the guage never makes it beyond 1/2 way up, so I am trying to test it. If I get it all figured out, I will let you know.
 

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Square,

Temperature guage sending unit.

Look underneath and behind the distributor......... Might be easier to see if you take the distrib cap off. The sending unit is connected to the engine block, NOT the thermostat housing, and it's basically a small brass fitting that has a tab sticking out of it. Lots of fun to get at, ask Leslie Grover. :lol:
 

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CJSREDPRA,

Thanks man! Wow! That was a quilck response!

8)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys. Well my radiator is new but i will look in to it. Are u guys saying that if the "Temperature guage sending unit" is bad it causes my cars sickness :D. Oh yea i know where it is thanks anyways. What i wanted to know is where the heater core hoses where. This overheating problem did not start till about 2-3 months ago and was running fine since August of last year. Anyways itll got and stare at my car for now. :drinking:
 

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The heater core hoses are on the back of the motor. One goes from the top of the motor (between the cam boxes) to the firewall, and the other heater hose connects just behind the #6 exhaust manifold outlet. I actually have to replace that hose soon as the heating/cooling from the manifold has made it spongy.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
YEa i have changed those hoses and they are not leaking any fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yesterday i checked the spark plugs on my car and noticed sum fresh oil on them it was a very minuscule amount never the less it was still oil. Im kinda worried at this point. Im not gonna put a hand on my car till next week or the week after that cuz i got finals. I still dont know what ima do but i have all that time to think it through.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OKay its official i have an BHG :bad-word: :bad-word: :bad-word: :bad-word: :bad-word: :bad-word: :bad-word:
This is my second BHG rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Well now i dont know what to do. I was thinking of purchasing a 6m from ray fong or working on this engine. Ray can get me a 6m in good condition for about 500 buck but i got to talk to him. IF i work on this eng i would have to shave the block redo the head and buy a MHG im guessing that all this would cost me some where around 500 bucks also. I am leaning on buying rays 6m and dropping it in. Any advive.
 
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