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HELP Dropped bolt in motor!

7828 Views 48 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  MikeMac
I was in the process of putting my engine back together after a fixing up a blown head gasket, as i was putting the camshaft on the head i dropped a bolt inside the oil galley. I was wondering how i should go about this problem? Ive already spent at least an hour sitting there with a magnet trying to fish it out, Ive tried vaccuming it out, and removing the oil pan just sounds like alot of work. Im curious to know how urgent it is that i get it out? Its pretty frustrating, suggestins??:32:

btw its a stock 5m-ge, thanks.
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Because you are a half ass.
Hahaha well ive decided to leave it in there and reassemble the rest of my engine. But after i get a lil money ill just get an oil pan gasket and change it out when i get the bolt. No use in takin it off now without a gasket right?
I can honestly say im not looking forward to it tho...:sadsmilie
are you serious?
Your really going to leave a bolt in your engine. Your a dumbass...
spend a few hours and 15 bucks for an oil pan gaskets and take the damn pan off.

Specially while you have everything off and its even easier to maneuver around in the bay.
How about putting something around the magnet so it will not stick to the sides of the engine block and only stick to the bolt. Use something like rubber tubing to conceal most of the magnet leaving only the end available to stick to the magnet. My favorite helper...Duct tape, would also work. You don't really need a gasket for the oil pan. I think most people just use the permatex grey by $3.00. So that is not really an excuse to not do it.
A pickle grabber is not your hand?

since when?
Get the flexible magnet one on this page...

I've fished valve keepers, bolts, nuts and washers out with it. It doesn't keep collapsing on you when you shove it down the you can fish around with it a bit.

Tough luck dude...I hate dropping shit like that. I dropped a valve doing valve stem seals on a 2JZ once...that sucked as well.

Don't start your engine with that bolt in really don't know where its at...could be sitting in a counterweight of the crank just waiting to break shit.

Lastly...use some patience (as it seems your lacking in that department).

Good luck!
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Hahaha well ive decided to leave it in there and reassemble the rest of my engine. But after i get a lil money ill just get an oil pan gasket and change it out when i get the bolt. No use in takin it off now without a gasket right?
I can honestly say im not looking forward to it tho...:sadsmilie
Not going to lie, that's a pretty horrible idea. Like Mark said, it could just be waiting to blow shit up.
If you're gonna be half ass,

Stick a crap load of heavy duty magnets all across the underside of your oil least that way it "should" stay there at the bottom.

you might be a ******* if you drop a bolt in your motor j/k
Yeahh im definetly super impatient..
Well ive only put the camshafts on, im done trying to fish that bolt out. Its simply justt not happening. Im gonna try to get ahold of a cherry picker and take my engine out. It could use a good cleaning anyways. Looks like ill have to go all out after all...
patience. The only thing that's keeping my car from coming out of storage is 2 radiator brackets that I'm waiting for in the mail.

Patience my friend, you MUST acquire it. Take the freakin pan off. I hope you learned something from this at least. The pan gasket is like 15 bucks and RTV gasket maker is 5$. DO IT.
Looks like im gonna have to pick up some permatex and a haynes manual. Ive never used the stuff but would it work on my camshaft cover? I misplaced one of the gaskets.
not really dude. The RTV gasket maker is to coat the cork or paper gaskets to double assure you it wont leak. NEVER do a cork job without putting some RTV over it.
If you gonna use Permatex silicone as your gasket, use Ultra Grey, Blue, or Black. We had a talk with the Permatex guy at school. The regulars are not as long lasting as the Ultras. He says regular Blue was only designed to last 30,000 miles, that's not much these days.

The silicone is not meant to normally be used as a sealer over the gaskets, they have sealant for that.

His reason for not using the RTV silicone as a gasket sealer is that it is basically providing extra layers. In SOME cases, this could throw off very crucial dimensions. They have spray on sealant and glob on to help provide and extra seal on normal gaskets as well as hold them in place while you're assembling.

Read the labels, it says gasket maker, not gasket sealer. It's meant to BE a gasket so you won't have to keep order Fel-Pro kits haha.
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Haha id hate to order another kit..
Well thanks for clearing that up. I just went to the website, depends exactly what your gonna seal i spose.
I think you should first ask what oil pan you have. If its an 85+ pan with the oil return in the side you don't need a gasket and should use Permatex Ultragrey or Toyota FIPG. The earlier pans with the inverted flange still use a gasket. If the bolt actually in the sump of the pan its not going to causing any harm unless it got through the oil pump screen. If its in the pan use a powerful magnet and draw it near the oil drawing sliding the magnet across the surface.
IMHO i think you should just take your motor out and do some gaskets and drop your pan and get the bolt. sometimes you just got to bite the bullet and do it. cause eventually you are going to need to replace seals and gaskets... cause oil will be going out just as fast as its going in. might as well do it and get it done with instead of putting it off to the side lol. just my two cents though.
Well at the moment i dont have any oil
buttt while i was down there i noticed the oil pan gasket looked prety old or whatever it was. Its a late 84 im not sure what type it is tho, it has a sunroof.. I could tell you the numbers in a bit.
+5 million for FIPG, FIPG (Toyota Form-In-Place-Gasket Material, Black for Oil) is the ONLY sealer I will EVER use on my engine. It's a HUGE PITA to remove, but properly prepared it is amazing in seal and nearly permanent in hold.

But then again, you're talking about running the engine with a bolt loose in the bottom of the engine, so... GLWT, use whatever you want, you'll most likely be pulling the engine apart after it eats itself from the inside out.
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