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Discussion Starter #1
After finally putting my motor back together. I can't seem to get it
timed properly. It does not want to idle at 10. Runs best at 15+. Any
idea what the heck is going on?

I was real careful when I timed the cams. Lined up TDC on the crank.
Lined up the cams using the alignment holes in the cam and cam
housing. I have adjustable gears, so I was able to get it perfect.

Any help would be appreciated. I sure missed not driving it.
 

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sloopercat said:
After finally putting my motor back together. I can't seem to get it
timed properly. It does not want to idle at 10. Runs best at 15+. Any
idea what the heck is going on?

I was real careful when I timed the cams. Lined up TDC on the crank.
Lined up the cams using the alignment holes in the cam and cam
housing. I have adjustable gears, so I was able to get it perfect.

Any help would be appreciated. I sure missed not driving it.
I can tell you a few things to try..

Turn the engine to top dead center (zero on the timing mark) and verify that cam holes do line up under the cam covers ( turning the engine engine in the direction that it runs, clockwise from the front i believe)

you may be leaking air from the injector seals.. i used carb cleaner or brake cleaner and spray the liquid around the seals.. if engine revs up a little.. you gotta leak.

Did you drain and refill the hydrolic valve adjusters with fresh clean oil?

ARe you putting the jumper in when you check the timing?



Thats all I can think of right now.. maybe others can jump in and suggest something.. let us know what it was .. please.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The car runs real well. A bit too rich also. I did time it using the cam journal holes. I have adjustable gears, so it is dead on. I did short the timing plug, but it does not change things at all. No CEL. It never has had an effect on this car. I tried adjusting the TPS, moving it had no effect on the CEL or timing.

I am open to all suggestions.
 

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Make sure the idle switch is working in the TPS there should be two terminals on the TPS that will be closed when the throttle is. Its pretty common for this to crap out and the rest of the TPS is fine. The factory TSRM has the method to check this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Slogging through the TSRM, it is not readily apparent what I am looking for. I see to look at IDL-E1 and PSW-E1 continuity. It just says check TPS, then has a BAD or OK decision box. Are they supposed to be checked with throttle open or closed? I assume closed throttle with no resistance at the terminals is the correct value when the throttle is closed for both tests?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, so I did some readings. I have continuity between the bottom terminal and middle terminal when the throttle is closed. But that's it. I assume that E1 is the bottom, PSW the middle and IDL is the top terminal?

Looks like a bad TPS? Anybody have a "good" one laying around?

Again, thanks for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, so I dug into the TSRM a bit more and ran across a chart that says what the TPS is supposed to be doing. If I have the terminals pegged correctly, it looks like mine is working. Bottom two terminals connected when the throttle is closed.

So, what else could be keeping the system in the open loop mode? The car has never responded to shorting out the connector terminals when adjusting timing. ???

The sucker is running well, but rich. Any idea about that? Timing is in another dimension.

I was a mechanic, between college careers, but that was when these cars were new, so I am a bit rusty. I did all the FI and electrical trouble shooting at the shop I worked at.

I guess I will verify the cam timing tomorrow. Stay tuned, I can be fun to watch.....
:oops:
 

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is it possible that your check connector is fouled somehow and the jumper is not actually jumping the two leads? I don't know if you would feel comfortable doing this but I might cut the connector off, strip the two wires and use an alligator clip type jumper to jump them, then just cap them off with some wire-nuts afterwards. Just an idea and maybe not even a good one at that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The connector looks like new, the car was not driven in the winter, so I don't have a lot of corrosion issues. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Double checked the intake cam timing by inspection through the oil fill hole. It is right on the money when the crank shows TDC.

Interesting thing is I took the distributor out and lined up the signal rotor to the pickup coil, like the TSRM says. It barely puttered along, no power, hard to gain RPM with no load.

I ran out of timing adjustment, at that point the timing showed about 5 degrees advance.

So I yanked the distributor and moved it a tooth. Adjusted timing for highest vacum. If I stick a timing light on it, it is about 25 deg advance. But it acts normal otherwise.

I am at a loss. Still running rich as well.

What am i missing?
 

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I had a problem once with my timing belt where I had an extra tooth or so in between the intake cam gear and the crank gear creating a small amount of "slack" in the belt. Although my gears were lined up and TDC I was having a hard time with my timing. If I remember correctly the tensioner did not take this slack up as it was on the other side of the crank pulley from the tensioner or "idler" as I think it is properly called. This may be off base for what your problem intales but just a thought anyway.
 
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