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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
this is a thread of somewhat commonly needed tips and tricks. i will add more to it as i think of them.

CRANK PULLEY BOLT REMOVAL!

best way to remove or tighten that bolt(no nic's on the inside of the block or on the rod, etc..)

step 1: remove the timing belt from the cam gears, then line the cams up so the intake and exhaust valves are closed on the #1 cylinder.

step 2: turn the crank ~1/3 turn clockwise past tdc for #1 piston.

step 3: remove the #1 spark plug.

step 4: use some stereo power cable that's insulated. i used 8 or 10 awg. and slide ~8-12in or so in the cylinder

step 5: then turn the crank back counter clockwise. it locks the motor.

step 6: use a breaker bar and 6 point 19mm socket to break it loose.

for tightening, same thing, but turn counter clockwise first, then clockwise to lock it. then use a tq wrench set to the correct tq. 6m/7m is 195ft/lbs and 5m is 168lbs/ft iirc




PILOT BEARING REMOVAL!

this will work for w58 or r154. same pilot bearing. 5m,6m, or 7m.

step 1: get a piece of bread and a stock extra head bolt(don't use one you need) or an aftermarket bolt the same size. i have several stock head bolts and they fit in the pilot hole perfect. a flat head screwdriver and a hammer!

step 2. tear off pieces of bread small enough to shove in the pilot bearing hole.

step 3. Stick them in the pilot hole. repeat till you cant force any more in there.

step 4. take the head bolt and put it in the hole and tap with the hammer easily till it touches the crank inside. then remove it.

step 5. repeat step 3 and 4 until it is packed so tight that you have to hit the bolt with the hammer hard for it to push the bolt in. at this point you will notice the bearing starting to push out. each time the bolt bottoms out remove it and pack more bread in the hole until the pilot bearing pops all the way out.

step 6. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the large chunk of bread and your done. No greasy mess like the Haynes ends up causing you.




HOW TO HAVE A TIGHT LEAK FREE OILPAN!

this assumes you've already scrapped all old sealant off the pan and block

step 1: grab a can of acetone, some clean rags and a tube of ultra gray sealant. also some gloves wont hurt.

step 2: pour some acetone onto a clean rag and wipe the block mating surface and pan mating surface clean. the acetone will remove any oil or grease residue and dry instantly with no residue at all. might want to wear gloves so that acetone doesn't dry out your hands.

step 3: put a nice even bead around the entire block if you have the engine on a stand and upside down, or on the pan if the engine is in the car. ive found 1 full tube is usually used for the pan itself.

step 4: place the pan directly onto the block, do not allow it to slide around as this will damage the bead of sealant you have put down.

step 5: install all the bolts and tighten properly.

once the sealer has dried you could remove the bolts and the pan wont come off. lol. when it ever needs removed it will have to be "persuaded" to do so as this gives a VERY good seal and bonds very well once its been heat cycled a few times.




BEST HG SEAL POSSIBLE!

step 1: you need your hg, a tube of ultra gray, some clean rags, and a can of acetone. also the proper socket and extension and a GOOD tq wrench!!!

step 1. pour some acetone on a clean rag and clean the head and block surface very thoroughly. it will dry leaving no residue at all.

step 2: put a tiny bead of ultra gray at the 2 spots where the front timing cover attaches to the block. DO NOT PUT A HUGE BEAD!!!!!!!!!! just a small one and may even want to smear it with your finger slightly.

step 3: place the hg on the block being sure it is seated over the dowel pins properly

step 4: install the head. get help if possible as you want to set it straight down and not slide it on the gasket at all. easier when you have a competent helper.

step 5: install the bolts or head studs and make all finger tight.

step 6: tq the bolts in the proper sequence to the proper spec in 3 even passes. i use 90lbs with head studs and lube on them. so i go 30, 60, then 90. with head bolts i go to 75 in 25, 50, 75 sequence.





HOW TO SEAL THIN PAPER GASKETS!

this is for any small paper gasket, like the diff cover, or the timing cover for the block and thermostat housing and other misc paper gaskets.

step 1: you need some clean rags, can of acetone, and a tube of ultra gray sealant.

step 2: pour some acetone on a clean rag and wipe the mating surfaces of the parts that are going together clean.

step 3. put a dab of the ultra gray on your thumb and forefinger and rub together and then rub it on the paper gasket working your way around the entire gasket. when done both sides of the gasket should have a thin coating of the ultra gray that will not squish out when the parts are bolted together.

step 4: place the gasket on the part and put the part on with the correct bolts. this works goof on the timing covers on the 7m and especially the upper 5m timing cover!



HOW TO KEEP ROCKERS IN PLACE WHEN INSTALLING CAMS!

this is a easy headache reliever. may sound like common sense but lots of people have asked how to do this. lol.

step 1: you need a tube of assembly lube, preferably the moly based stuff, and some rags to clean your hands.

step 2: put a dab of assembly lube on the top of the hydraulic lash adjuster and on the top of the valve stem with your finger. use a fair amount.

step 3: place the correct rocker on each assembly. then use the rags to wipe your hands clean of the grease.

step 4: install the cam tower on the cylinder head while the lube holds the rockers from being bumped off so easy.



LEAK FREE EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET!

this is the method i use and never have a leaking exhaust manifold gasket, works great when you need to reuse a gasket.

step 1: you need the gasket and a tube of ultra gray and some rags.

step 2. put a decent bead around each port on the gasket with the ultra gray on both sides. dont use too much. use your finger to smooth it out slightly.

step 3: place the gasket over the studs on the head and use the rags to clean the sealer off your hands

step 4: install the exhaust manifold/header and tq the nuts to spec. it is recommended to only use the stock nuts as aftermarket nuts do not distribute the tq correctly and tend to cause the studs to strip the head even when tqed to the proper amount.

when the engine is started up for the first time there will be some smoke emitting from the gasket area for a couple min. but it only does this the once. after that its fine.



EXHAUST STUD FIX!

not really a special trick, but something i feel should be mentioned. if your head is off the car for ANY reason. helicoil the exhaust studs. they tend to srip with age and heat cycling etc... and also after helicoiled the exhaust nuts can be tightened a lil tighter and it WONT strip!!!.

step 1. buy the proper helicoil kit. it is 10mmx1.25 and make sure you have extra inserts just in case. lol. Napa sells the inserts in packs of 12. also make sure you have the proper 13/32 drill bit and a GOOD tap wrench. buy some red loctite as well and some pb blaster and brake parts cleaner.

step 2. make sure all studs are removed and everything is out of the way so you can get the tap wrench in there easily.

step 3. drill with the drill bit straight into the holes all the way down till the drill bit bottoms out.

step 4. use the brake parts cleaner to blow the metal pits out.

step 5. spray some pb blaster on the tap and tap each hole. it is VERY important you tap ALL THE WAY IN!!!! if you dont bottom the tap out in the hole the inserts will not install correctly. however, be care so you dont over tap and ruin the threads you made or your in BIG trouble.

step 6. use the brake parts cleaner and clean all the holes of debris and pb blaster.

step 7. install the helicoils and be sure the tab on the coil is the first part entered. before installing them put a lil bit of red loctite on the helicoil OUTER threads only. not the inner threads. then install them till it bottoms out in the hole. if done correctly the entire coil will be inside the threaded hole in the head. take a clean exhaust stud to thread in lightly just to make sure the threads are good and correct and then remove the stud. dont leave it in.


step 8. let this dry for at least an hour if you can before putting the studs back. dont want the studs accidentally getting thread locked in there. lol.

step 9. after it has dried, install all the exhaust studs. put the shortest threaded half in the head. then your read to install the gasket and exhaust mani/header/turbo mani etc...
 

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Hooray for Ultra Gray! I started using it about 6-7 years ago and don't really use anything else (though sometimes I use Motoseal 1 for it's gas resistance).
 

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I use clothesline rope for that too.
 

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I use the copper gasket maker thats specifically for high heat turbo's, otherwise same as Williams methods. O and I use copper spray on the head gaskets if the units are not freshy fresh from the machine shop.
 

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The crank bolt trick sounds interesting. If I don't have an impact gun next time I have to remove one I'll try it out. Also gotta get me some ultra gray.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
the ultra grey is the same as the toyota fipg. just a diff color. it is high temp AND high tq. shit is awesome. i just grab it from walmart where it is cheapest. ok, first post is so long had to add this to this one.

EGR BLOCKOFF!

again, if your going to do this, wait till the head and intake manifold are OFF the car. cant really do it otherwise.


step 1 buy a 3/8ths npt tap and the correct drill bit for it and a GOOD tap wrench. also some red loctite and brake parts cleaner, a SMALL magnetic pickup tool. the cheapo $1 one is perfect and a exhaust manifold stud.


step 2. remove the egr cooler off the back of the head.

step 3. use the drill bit and rill the port on the back of the head to the #6 runner. going about 3/4-7/8ths of an inch deep.

step 4. blow out the hole with brake parts cleaner. all the shavings should come otu the #6 exhaust port easily

step 5. use the 3/8ths npt tap and tap the hole occasionally removing the tap. blowing out and inserting the pipe plug to see how deep it will go. you want to tap enough that it will be almost flush with the outside of the head.

step 6. spray the hole clean with brake parts cleaner and install the 3/8ths npt pipe plug with red loctite on it. you can then put the cooler back on if you want. i left mine off.

step 7. drill into the port on the intake manifold. it will likely not touch the head and just remove the carbon buildup inside. this hole is a larger diameter.

step 8. use the red tube on the brake parts cleaner. stick it in almost as far as it goes so it will spray on the back of the port and push everything out. close your eyes. lol.

step 9. slide the exhaust stud in the hole and then tap it the same depth as the back of the head. once the tap is removed use your magnetic pickup tool to pull the stud out and it should scrap all the metal shavings out with it. dont want these getting sucked in later.

step 10. do the same trick with the brake parts cleaner as in step 8. then install the pipe plug with red loctite and enjoy all the extra room from no egr and also the back of the head will run cooler.

heres some pics showing it on my 7mgte






HOW TO WIRE ELECTRIC FANS
here is a diagram for wiring electric fans into your car. i drew it up for dual fans as alot of people use the fal fans or the ford contour fans. i used the ford contour fans and they work great. if your running a single fan you only need 1 relay and fuse of coarse.

1 thing thats very important is the fuses need to be as close to the battery as possible and id recommend using 10awg wire for each fan. if you want a removable connector with 10awg wire and 2 pins, there is one on the ford contour. has green wires. i ground both my fans to one of the stock shroud mounting points and will wire this connector in to the 2 positive wires for my fans so itll make it easier to remove the fans with the radiator as 1 unit.

now, alot of people wound say run both fans on 1 relay and fuse. i recommend each fan have its own. this way if one shorts and pops the fuse you still have 1 fan running to help prevent severe over heating.

also here is a link to the electric thermostat to control them.

electric_thermostat




QUICK STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION. DOES NOT REQUIRE JACKING THE CAR UP.

1. Disconnect the battery

2. remove the wires from the starter. The power cable should be 12mm, but some aftermarket startes the nut is 1/2in aka13mm.

3. Grab a 14mm offset wrench. Mine is 14mm one side, 12mm on the other, my favorite and most used tool to be honest.


Stand on the driver side of the car, it does not need jacked up. Put the 14mm end on the lower nut on the bell-housing side of the starter. The offset allows you to hold the wrench easier.

4. Get a 3/8ths ratchet, and about 12-15in of extension, and a 14mm socket. Reach down in front of the starter, just behind the AC compressor and slide the extension with socket onto the lower bolt.

5. Remove the lower bolt with ease. 30 seconds maybe?

6. Repeat these steps for the top bolt. Another 30 seconds maybe?

7. Grab the starter, and lower it onto the ground.

8. Grab the starter from under the car.

RE-INSTALLATION

1. Place the new or rebuilt starter under the car just below where it goes

2. Stand up and reach down between the intake manifold and inner fender and grab the starter to lift it up and set it so that it will not fall on the ground.

3. Switch the ratchet to tighten. Grab the top bolt, and put it in the socket that is on the ratchet. . Slide it through the TOP hole of the starter, and then while holding the ratchet with your left hand, and the starter with your right, put the starter into place sliding the bolt into the top hole.

NOTE: Be sure the nut is somewhere you can easily grab it with your right hand. I leave it on the cowl.

4. Grab the nut with your right hand, and then reach down and start it on the bolt from the bell-housing side. DO NOT TIGHTEN THIS NUT ALL THE WAY YET!

5. Grab the lower bolt. Put it in the socket on the ratchet. Put a piece of electrical tape around the socket, with just a tiny bit, maybe 1/4in sticking out past the socket so it will hold the bolt in. Pull the tape tight so it somewhat stretches. This will keep the bolt from falling out of the socket in the next step.

6. Slide the ratchet/bolt up into the lower whole with your left hand. Grab the starter with your right hand and move it as needed for the lower bolt to go through the lower bell-housing starter hole.

7. Hold the ratchet/bolt with pressure so it wont come out and grab the nut with your right hand. Start the nut.

8. Grab the 14mm offset wrench. Put it on the lower nut on the bell-housing side. Tighten the lower bolt with the ratchet.

9. Put the offset wrench on the top nut from the bell-housing side.

10. Pull the ratchet off of the lower bolt. Remove the electrical tape from the socket. Slide it onto the top bolt. Tighten with the ratchet.

11. Reattach the wires to the starter.

12. Reconnect the battery. Your done!. Shouldn't take 10-15 minutes total and you don't even have to jack the car up.


HOW TO KEEP BOLTS AND NUTS FROM FALLING OUT OF SOCKETS WHEN REACHING HARD LOCATIONS.

1. Grab a roll of electrical tape. I sue the cheap Harbor Freight vynil electrical tape.

2. Put the bolt or nut into the socket.

3. Wrap the tape around the socket, pulling very tight so it stretches slightly, leaving 1/8-1/4in hanging off the end of the socket so the bolt/nut does not fall out. Cut/break the tape.

4. Turn the socket upside down to ensure the bolt will not fall out.

This comes in handy when under the car putting the top transmission bolts in place, when putting the starter bolts in place, and for many other things on other cars, such as the y pipe on a 7M-Ge, or 2JZ-Ge, etc...

This is the best pic I could find, but use electrical tape. it works much better from my experience.


SUICIDE HOSE REPLACEMENT MADE EASY!

1. Take the upper timing cover off (trust me)

2. Turn the crank until the timing marks on the cams line up with the rear cover.

3. Take the distributor cap off. Do not remove the plug wires. leave them off and just move it off to the top of the motor out of the way.

4. Take a sharpie and mark the rotor and distributor so you can line it back up properly.

5. Remove the distributor.

6. Replace the suicide hose with ease.

7. Reinstall the distributor, making sure to line the rotor up with the mark on the distributor.

8. Reinstall the distributor cap.

9. Reinstall the upper timing belt cover.

NOTE: If you are confident in putting the distributor back, you can skip steps 1 and 2, but I added them for the people that are not quite as experienced.
 

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In step 4 you are filling the space that the "gas/air mixture" would be in during the compression stroke and in step 5 you are truning the crank to the point where the wire (since it is not compressable) will not allow the piston to move up any further. Then all of the force applied to the crank bolt is used to twist it off and not move the crank. I guess it should be mentioned that once the bolt is loose enough to move easily, but still on the crank itself you must relieve the pressure on the wire (rotate crank clockwise) to be able to remove the wire, it comes out quite easily once the piston has gone down about a half an inch or so. The beauty of this method is that you can use the same method to re-tighten the crank bolt to the 170 ft/lbs of torque, you just have to move the piston backwards to just before TDC and do the same thing. This is what made me happy because holding the crank with anything and getting 170 ft/lbs seemed very difficult to achieve, maybe with an impact but I couldn't get it in there. Now I just need my 4 ft cheater bar and I bet I can get 170 easily. Williamb82 is right when he says 8-10 awg power cable (or speaker cable) is best, it just needs to be coated with sort of soft insulation so it won't scar the piston. The rope I used was probably not distributed very evenly and may give an uneven pressure distribution on the top of the piston.
 

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Hey MKIIproject, I didn't see your post until just now. That is one way to do it - pulling the valve cover. However, when the #1 cylinder is at the start of the power stroke all valves are closed, the start of the power stroke is when the #1 piston is at TDC. Here is how I found the location where #1 cylinder is at TDC. By removing the spark plug in #1 and placing a wooden chopstick in the cylinder and turning the crank pulley until it went up the highest, TDC (do it carefully if the indicator is too small and you lose it in the cylinder it will become a much bigger job). Now there are two locations where the piston is at TDC, end of compression/beginning of power stroke and the end of exhaust/beginning of intake. I looked at the timing mark on the crank pulley and the timing marks on the cam gears, when the marks all lined up correctly, that indicated that it was on the beginning of the power stroke and all valves were closed. The other TDC is 180 degrees away from that and the marks on the cam gears should be on the other side of the gear (180 degrees away from the match marks). The crank pulley should be at the zero indicator on both TDCs. I hope that answers your question. Let me know if it doesn't.
 

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HOW TO HAVE A TIGHT LEAK FREE OILPAN!

this assumes youve already scrapped all old sealant off the pan and block

step 1: grab a can of acetone, some clean rags and a tube of ultra gray sealant. also some glaves wont hurt.

step 2: pour some acetone onto a clean rag and wipe the block mating surface and pan mating surface clean. the acetone will remove any oil or grease residue and dry instantly with no residue at all. might want to wear gloves so that acetone doesnt dry out your hands.

step 3: put a nice even bead around the entire block if you have the engine on a stand and upside down, or on the pan if the engine is in the car. ive found 1 full tube is usually used for the pan itself.

step 4: place the pan directly onto the block, do not allow it to slide around as this will damage the bead of sealant you have put down.

step 5: install all the bolts and tighten properly.

once the sealer has dried you could remove the bolts and the pan wont come off. lol. when it ever needs removed it will have to be "persueded" to do so as this gives a VERY good seal and bonds very well once its been heatcycled a few times.
William, did you end up using an oil pan gasket aswell, or just the sealer by itself?

Sonny
 

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Sonny, early, 82-4 pans need a gasket, later pans use the sealant only.
 

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Great write up William! I use lithium grease to help keep the rockers in place, didn't know if anyone used grease to hold them in before now. I like using Toyota FIPG...but that's just my preference (and I get it pretty cheap for obvious reasons).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Great write up William! I use lithium grease to help keep the rockers in place, didn't know if anyone used grease to hold them in before now. I like using Toyota FIPG...but that's just my preference (and I get it pretty cheap for obvious reasons).
dont use fipg to hold the rockers in place. its a big nono.
 

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I may be wrong but I think Mark meant that he likes using Toyota FIPG(because he gets it cheap and because its good) for the oil pan
 

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Crank pulley removal

Remove bottom bolts from the A/C compressor, and use with a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley.
Don't even attempt removing the pulley with a prybar between the pulley, and the timing cover which will do nothing but break the pulley which is made of cast.
 

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Remove bottom bolts from the A/C compressor, and use with a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley.
Don't even attempt removing the pulley with a prybar between the pulley, and the timing cover which will do nothing but break the pulley which is made of cast.
That's a good tip about the bolts. :thumbsup:
 
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