You were the one who suggested this method many many years ago and I've used it to much success ever since. Thanks Will! But I highly recomend not using speaker wire. Your risking some of the copper braid coming off in the cylinder. Just use rope, it works great and can't damage anything. I just use normal yellow nylon rope.williamb82 said:CRANK PULLEY BOLT REMOVAL!
best way to remove or tighten that bolt(no nics on the inside of the block or on the rod, etc..)
step 1: remove the timing belt from the cam gears, then line the cams up so the intake and exhaust valves are closed on the #1 cylinder.
step 2: turn the crank ~1/3 turn clockwise past tdc for #1 piston.
step 3: remove the #1 sparkplug.
step 4: use some stereo power cable thats insulated. i used 8 or 10 awg. and slide ~6-12in or so in the cylinder
step 5: then turn the crank back counter clockwise. it locks the motor.
step 6: use a breaker bar and 6 point 19mm socket to break it loose.
for tightening, same thing, but turn counter clockwise first, then clockwise to lock it. then use a tq wrench set to the correct tq. 6m/7m is 195ft/lbs and 5m is 168lbs/ft iirc
Yeah that sounds kinda finicky. I've tried the old grease behind the pilot bearing trick which this is a slight variation of, and its never worked for me. I would recomend just get the proper tool or take the 15 minutes it takes to make one. I did that years ago and its worked every time on the first try ever since. Here's a pic...williamb82 said:PILOT BEARING REMOVAL!
this will work for w58 or r154. same pilot bearing. 5m,6m, or 7m.
step 1: get a couple paper towels and a cup of water and a stock headbolt or an aftermarket bolt the same size. i have several stock headbolts and they fit in the pilot hole perfect. a flat head screwdriver and a hammer!
step 2. tear off pieces of paper towel about 1.5in square.
step 3. dip the pieces 1 at a time in the cup of water and then stick them in the pilot hole. repeat till you cant force any more in there.
step 4. take the headbolt and put it in the hole and tap wit hthe hammer easily till it touches the crank inside. then remove it.
step 5. repeat step 3 and 4 until it is packed so tight that you have to hit the bolt wit hthe hammer hard for it to push the bolt in. at this point you will notice the bearing starting to push out. each time the bolt bottoms out remove it and pack more wet paper towels in the hole untill the pilot bearing pops all the way out.
step 6. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the large chunck of wet paper towels and your done. just a lil water to wipe off. no greasey mess like the haynes ends up causing you.
Thats pretty much FSRM method. As Shawn said, thats how you're supposed to install the later oil pans. I'm guessing the earlier ones don't have the recesses for the RTV. Upgrade to a later pan, cork oil pan gaskets are stupid.williamb82 said:HOW TO HAVE A TIGHT LEAK FREE OILPAN!
this assumes youve already scrapped all old sealant off the pan and block
step 1: grab a can of acetone, some clean rags and a tube of ultra gray sealant. also some glaves wont hurt.
step 2: pour some acetone onto a clean rag and wipe the block mating surface and pan mating surface clean. the acetone will remove any oil or grease residue and dry instantly with no residue at all. might want to wear gloves so that acetone doesnt dry out your hands.
step 3: put a nice even bead around the entire block if you have the engine on a stand and upside down, or on the pan if the engine is in the car. ive found 1 full tube is usually used for the pan itself.
step 4: place the pan directly onto the block, do not allow it to slide around as this will damage the bead of sealant you have put down.
step 5: install all the bolts and tighten properly.
once the sealer has dried you could remove the bolts and the pan wont come off. lol. when it ever needs removed it will have to be "persueded" to do so as this gives a VERY good seal and bonds very well once its been heatcycled a few times.
Thats also pretty much the factory method except for the torque spec at the end. I use 70ft/lbs on stock bolts and havn't had a problem, but seriously the best seal possible would be to deck everything and then go metal. The stock HG is serious fail no matter what you do, its just a shitty shitty design.williamb82 said:BEST HG SEAL POSSIBLE!
step 1: you need your hg, a tube of ultra gray, some clean rags, and a can of acetone. also the proper socket and extension and a GOOD tq wrench!!!
step 1. pour some acetone on a clean rag and clean the head and block surface very thouroughly. it will dry leaving no residue at all.
step 2: put a tiny bead of ultra gray at the 2 spots where the front timing cover attaches to the block. DO NOT PUT A HUGE BEAD!!!!!!!!!! just a small one and may even want to smear it with your finger slightly.
step 3: place the hg on the block being sure it is seated over the dowel pins properly
step 4: install the head. get help if possible as you want to set it straight down and not slide it on the gasket at all. easier when you have a competent helper.
step 5: install the bolts or head studs and make all finger tight.
step 6: tq the bolts in the proper sequence to the proper spec in 3 even passes. i use 90lbs with head studs and lube on them. so i go 30, 60, then 90. with headbolts i go to 75 in 25, 50, 75 sequence.
I prefer spray on gasket sealer. This stuff...williamb82 said:HOW TO SEAL THIN PAPER GASKETS!
this is for any small paper gasket, like the diff cover, or the timing cover for the block and thermostat housing and other misc paper gaskets.
step 1: you need some clean rags, can of acetone, and a tube of ultra gray sealant.
step 2: pour some acetone on a clean rag and wipe the mating surfaces of the parts that are going together clean.
step 3. put a dab of the ulta gray on your thumb and forefinger and rub together and then rub it on the paper gasket working your way around the entire gasket. when done both sides of the gasket should have a thin coating of the ultra gray that will not squish out when the parts are bolted together.
step 4: place the gasket on the part and put the part on with the correct bolts. this works goof on the timing covers on the 7m and especially the upper 5m timing cover!
Good tip, but I do not recomend using wheel bearing grease. It won't get washed off by regular oil easily. You need a steady supply of oil on the tops of the lash adjusters so they don't wear out. Use assembly lube, its nice and thick, it keeps the rockers on nicely and its actually designed to go inside your engine. A couple minutes of running and its diluted into the oil (which is why your supposed to change your oil after your first warm up on a fresh motor, to get all of the assembly lube out of it).williamb82 said:HOW TO KEEP ROCKERS IN PLACE WHEN INSTALLIBNG CAMS!
this is a easy headache releiver. may sound like common sense but lots of people have asked how to do this. lol.
step 1: you need a tub of wheel bearing grease, preferably synthetic, and some rags to clean your hands.
step 2: put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the top of the hydralic lash adjuster and on the top of the valve stem with your finger. use a fair amount.
step 3: place the correct rocker on each assembly. then use the rags to wipe your hands clean of the grease.
step 4: install the cam tower on the cylinder head whiel the greas holds the rockers from being bumped off so easy.
I agree with the helicoiling. Do it ASAP, just don't fuck it up. I don't know about using RTV on the exh manifold though. Never tried it, but even the black stuff isn't rated anywhere near the heat ranges the exhaust sees. Actually the red RTV is the high temp stuff, but even it isn't rated high enough for exhaust components.williamb82 said:LEAK FREE EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET!
this is the method i use and never have a leaking exhaust manifld gasket.
step 1: you need the gasket and a tube of ultra gray and some rags.
step 2. put a decent bead around each port on the gasket wit hthe ultra gray on both sides. dont use too much. use your finger to smooth it out slightly.
step 3: place the gasket over the studs on the head and use the rags to clean the sealer off your hands
step 4: install the exhaust manifold/header and tw the nuts to spec. it is recomended to only use the stock nuts as aftermarket nuts do not distribute the tq correctly and tend to cause the studs to strip the head even when tqed to the proper amount.
when the engine is started up for the first time there will be some smoke emmiting from the gasket area for a couple min. but it only does this the once. after that its fine.